DavyZ
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Posts posted by DavyZ
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Thanks, Mike. That was what I was hoping for. Although not to everyone's taste, I'll be shooting this stuff when the time comes. The actual brand name stuff is fairly pricey, and I would very much consider an alternative--if anyone knows of a good quality one, I'm all ears. Thanks.
David
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I was secretly wanting you to blow out your carb for $20, which I would have gladly paid...until you said it was warped. Did they say why it warped or what caused this to happen?
David
[ April 23, 2001: Message edited by: DavyZ ]
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Thanks for the info and all the pictures--sure helps with this kind of thing!
David
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Tom, I am contemplating the same thing before I buy and believe that in addition to what you mentioned, the input shafts and output shafts are different. IMO the Ford seems to be a bit stronger than the Chevy, but you have to have it modified to fit. It was either Dark Horse Performance or Forte's that did the mods on Pete's tranny--look on his website and you'll find your answer. To me it comes down to a question of cost. After putting money into a Ford tranny, would I have been better off buying a T56???? Good luck.
David
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I really like the 3" single system I bought--mandrel bent all the way into a Y-pipe, immediately into a Borla stainless, out to the back of the car into a Dynomax Superturbo. Many may hate Dynomax, but I like the mufflers and their sound. It's the Flowmaster sound I can't get used to--too "hollow" sounding IMO.
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Lone, your move on the driveshaft was strictly your decision and not a JTR advisement, right? What made you decide on the lumi shaft and not the steel one? More importantly: what did that sucker cost?!!? If it's not too bad, I may opt for one too...
Thanks,
David
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If you look in the recent posts in this forum, we just discussed this smog issue in depth--I seriously doubt many will want to delve into this deeply anytime soon. Please know that I'm not being standoffish, just realistic.
Smog law in CA: Engine must be same year as car or newer. All smog devices for the year of engine must be present and working. If your chassis came with a catalytic converter, you must have that too. 'Nuff said.
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Pete, that information may be incorrect, but I heard it from one of his friends...so I ASSuMEd that he heard that from Hoover. Why don't we ask Hoover to set the record straight?
Regards,
David
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quote:
Originally posted by Owen:C'mon guys, let's protect the environment!
Owen, I have no problem "protecting" the environment, but I do have a BIG problem with a schizophrenic government that will not let cars reasonably be free from smog requirements when they are 25 years or older! They make a law, pass it, then want to reconsider???? Pathetic! No one can expect things like catalytic converters to work, even after 10 years. Cars like my '74 Z are still required to pass smog? Stupid really....I drive this thing maybe 1000 miles a year if that. It probably hurts the environment more sitting in front of my house leaking oil residue onto the street then polluting the air when it drives. I'm sorry, but as I said, common sense is not so common anymore.
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I was at the last Datsun meet in Palo Alto, CA a few weeks ago and saw a few cars (Zs, 510s) with engine compartments sprayed with what looks like Zolotone paint. The stuff looks like high build "spatter" type paint and has a nice effect in that it draws your eyes away from the boring engine compartment sheetmetal and you focus on the "important" stuff like the engine, braided steel hoses, etc. The question remains in mind--how good is this stuff in terms of wear? Is it tough? Anyone here use it? If I am contemplating using this stuff, should I go with the name brand or get the generic stuff? This looks to be a solution for me, because it will hide engine compartment blemishes and I won't have to pay extra to get the engine compartment painted by the body shop when the whole car is painted. Opinions please!
David
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Can we get a picture pretty pleeeease?
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That car is a "Primadonna" that was supposed to be the way a "Scarab" would have ended up if the buyer would do all the mods. Yes, the car is very impressive in real life--nicely done I might add--and is owned by Hoover, who posts in this Forum. Hoover's car has a bit of historical value. I do prefer Terry's car, which is a totally custom, one-off production with awesome engineering to match. A bit more up to date IMO.
David
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Apparently the part of the law that says after 30 years old, the cars will be exempt may be rescinded by the CA State legislature. I read about it in DRIVE! magazine. That is the best place to get info on how our state gov't (and environmental groups) is trying to screw us through the smog laws. Those freak smog checks and random sampling checks give me the heebee jeebees... Sometimes I love CA, sometimes I HATE it! Common sense is so uncommon now a days.
David
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Welcome to the Forum! Has this car been smog certified before the conversion? If it has, the State puts a metal "sticker" on the driver's door jam with the "new" specs of the car and this allows you to get a smog check anywhere.
If this car has not been smog certified with the conversion, this is what you have to do: The car must have an engine that is the same year of the car or newer. The engine has to have all smog devices on it for it's year of manufacture. A 74 motor would need PCV, exhaust manifold with the proper AIR injectors, etc. If your '74 Zcar came with a catalytic converter, you must have one as well--I don't think they did, so you luck out there. You will have to take this car to a CA State referee station, not a "smog shop" like the local gas station, and undergo a visual and sniffer test. They will tell you why or why not you don't pass. If you don't pass, you will have to comply with their list of "to do's"; or if you do pass, then they issue you the "engine change" metal i.d. sticker as I indicated above and you are home free so to speak and can then get your car smogged anywhere from then on. The JTR manual has great information on this stuff and so does the State of Calif--use your browser. Hope this helps!
David
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Well, I couldn't pull up the picture, but I was there... You can have your Z as low as you want it to be, but you will want to take into consideration the oilpan clearance from the ground. It becomes crucial in a V8Z since the oilpan (from a Chevy anyway) is within anywhere from 2-4 inches from the ground on a typical set up. There have been numerous threads in the forum that have dealt with this issue of "oilpan clearance." Search the archives.
I, like you, want a low Z and a V8--I want my cake and eat it too!!!
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quote:
Originally posted by Drax240z:I think thats ingenious rather than cheap.
Nah, I think it's just cheap ingenuity!
David
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Roamer, blueovalz (Terry) and alsil (Al), have pretty complete information on their cars--both are running Fords and have done the swap independently of each other. Look for a post of Al's and his link will be in there. For Terry's information, you'll have to go to Zhome and look for the info there. Hope this helps--otherwise email either of them and I'm sure they'll help you out.
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Jeff Rimmer: The 383 was "underpowered" compared to the 300?!? I'm totally shocked! A 383 has enough stump pulling torque to twist a unibody and smoke the hides for days. I can't believe you actually said that, unless your setup was an exception? What's the deal????
Scarp: If you have the bucks, a force fed LT1 or LS1 would be sooo sweet. Heck, you bought that thing for a song, but money does not grow on trees. You are, however, safer in that "modern" car as opposed to the older series you once had, so maybe putting some good cash into it is worth it after all?
David
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Ross, I am using the stock motor mounts as recommended by JTR. They cite that smoothness was the priority and said nothing regarding any possibility of failure due to (extreme) use. As you know, my conversion is not quite there yet, but I am reasonably sure the stock mounts are the way to go if smoothness is a concern--and it is for you and me...
For the amount of horsepower you are running, the stock mounts should be more then sufficient. For very high HP applications, a urethane mount or solid mount (for all out racing applications) might be better because it is stiffer and also have a guarantee against failure if I'm not mistaken. Hope this helps.
David
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FWIW, IMO a V8 Z32 swap should do very nicely in there. Are you going for the A/T or T6 LT1 in the Z32 ASAP? RSVP!
DS
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Hoover, your picture of the Z with the airdam looks suspiciously like the Z that was on ebay a few months ago! Is that the same car?
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Man, that is cool. I can even understand it too! I was toying with idea of eventually buying an MSD Digital 6, but this is really cool because I can custom tailor any module (pill) for my needs. Much cheaper then buying them from MSD...
Thanks for posting that information!!!
David
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quote:
Originally posted by Kevin Shasteen:Cheap is such a harsh politically incorrect term; I prefer efficient!
Why Kevin, I never thought you were PC!
Cheap is better because it IS harsh--kinda shocking like our cars are shocking. I suppose a compromise is in order though: CHEAP = EFFICIENT David
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DUH! Well didn't I just read right past the specs on Scotties post! That'll teach me...
Jeromio, that mount is really well thought out and looks like it was quite a bit of work, with welding no less! That's much too much work for me...too technical too!
The pic comes up pretty good on my monitor though, so don't sweat it. I'll go the Scottie route...
Cheap is better because it IS harsh--kinda shocking like our cars are shocking. I suppose a compromise is in order though: CHEAP = EFFICIENT
Which Ignition to get?
in Ignition and Electrical
Posted
Chocolate or vanilla? Your choice. You might want to go digital, which seems to be the trend--they (digital igns) offer more features, and most of the manufacturers, including MSD, are going to this set up.