DavyZ

WHOA! The side bars didn't help as much as you though they would? That blows me away -- when I think about how a chassis would bend under hard acceleration, I would expect the side bars to increase rigidity to the point that such a difference would make them them mandatory, in theory at least. Well, it looks like if I go the side bar route, then I'll put in a clevis joint to make the bars removable. Thanks, Andy, for the archive story since it used real world experience to pass along helpful info. David

$300 is a reasonable sum. I want to see more info when this comes out. I'll be game for something like this for sure!

Perhaps I missed it in this long thread, but what is the year of MR2 I should use for the strut carts? I remember sometime earlier some part #s, but what is the correct one?Don't mean to be a PITA, but I gots to know! David

Mike, doesn't your car have a relatively "stock" interior with the panels in place? Minor trimming or even major cutting doesn't bother me, it's exposed areas that do. Noise comes in, it's unsightly, etc. My goal is a car that is fun AND comfortable. Why? I have to sell my wifey on the concept of this V8 Z as well. "Sweetie, we can go to the wine country in the Z--think of the romance: just you and I (and Z makes 3)." See my point? A stripped interior is not for me. O.K. I'm a wimp, but we all want something different. So, keeping as much of the interior intact appeals to me. David

Seems to me you could also stop a crack in your front windshield by drilling at the end of the crack...It would at least buy you some time before the whole thing falls apart.

Thanks for the reply, Brad! I am 6'2" and think that maybe I should rethink the cage a little. Possibly a clevis joint in the angled bar by the seat could be an option. I think I'll pass on the bar going through the dash vents, but hey, clean install! I'm trying to make a mostly street going Z that the wife will feel secure in when we drive up Highway 1. Cutting up the dash would eliminate the vents or worse and that is not what my goals are since the car will see 90% street time anyway. Thanks for the reply! David

Super! I'm assuming, though, that the strut "D" shaped hole must still be drilled round to accommodate the insert, yes? This is great news and I will go that route. Tell me, what is the range that the strut should be sectioned; 2-3 inches max? I don't want a severely lowered Z, so maybe just relocating a spring perch is o.k. with lowering springs, or sectioning 2 inches would be o.k. for my application as long as that is in the cards. Here is a dumb question, would the car need lowering springs after sectioning the strut? What would you do for a car that will see 90% street use? I want the car to sit about 2 inches lower. Cost is a factor here. Thanks Mike! David [This message has been edited by DavyZ (edited January 06, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by V8 VPR: Does anyone read these anymore? Yes, we do, but having an intelligent answer for you...well that takes cash, my friend. Seriously, I read your problem a while back and I was befuddled by the lack of more information regarding a possible leak. Have you had any more leaking? or can you see any evidence of a leak anywhere? ATF does not usually evaporate; I has to go somewhere! Give us some more info, please.

Mike, would GTI strut cartridges be any better? I have heard that MR2 strut cartridges are a better choice: but what year of MR2 etc? Any specifics? Gracias! David

Yes! That will work. The place in the front strut that accepts the Illumina is "D" shaped and will have to be drilled round, that's not a biggie! Just take your time and all will turn out fine. In the unlikely event that you screw up, there's my second home: the junk yard! David

Hey Brad, am I reading that you didn't have angled bars going from behind the seats to the front footwell area? (my coffee hasn't kicked in yet so the mind is foggy) Are you running the stock dash with those pieces that go into the engine compartment? Everything fit? Did you also look at Chris Alston (sp?) Chassis Works? I'm looking to put in a weld-in cage that won't interfere too much with the stock interior panels or dash. In a word, I want my cake and eat it too. Just wondering if can be done fairly easily or if it's a PITA. Thanks! David

Z28 huh? That may be a clean swap depending on how it mounts to the door - the size and shape of the Z28 mirror is appealing to me and I don't need a defrosting feature. Chevy product is common in the local yards, so I'll have to take a look. If you know of a web site or can post a picture, all the better, but thanks anyway for the info! David

Ron, to not answer your question directly, but to give $.02: the 280 is perhaps better for a conversion because there are more of them around, they typically are less expensive (around here anyway), they have a stiffer chassis, they are more comfortable and quieter inside, and they typically have less rust! I share Mike's opinion. David

David, your R200 will swap right over--all you need is the mustache bar and possibly the rear crossmember if your 240 is a '70 or '71. You should find out what the gear ratio is in the R200 before committing to a tranny, just to make sure you really won't need that 5th gear. Happy motoring! David

Clean looking install! I read your search for the right mirror and I think you found it. I have seen a clean install of a mustang mirror, but no documentation on it. Also I remember a thread here on a Hyundai mirror swap, which might be for me! Lotsa wrecked Korean cars around here...

Thanks Pete!! I got the info that I need for the install. Going OEM may take a little more ingenuity because I don't have a schematic or step by step instructions, but I'll learn some things in the process.

Thanks to Randy, Morgan, and Lone for the advice!! The plan now is to go with the Taurus fan (the junkyard here is FILLED with ford product!) unless a mustang fan would be better. A fan from a 3.8L with A/C should work, eh Randy? I hope I will be able to fabricate a proper mount--I have the aluminum Camaro radiator and hope I can adapt everything fairly easily. Any ideas on the thermostat/temp probe wiring? This should be fairly straight forward, yes? Would I need to go to a Painless Wiring unit or such? Again, I'm a CHEAPIE, but I'll strike a healthy balance that's most effective. Thanks for the input!! David

Guys, I need some advice here too! I am contemplating the Flex-a-lite Black Magic fan, but a junkyard Taurus fan (or whatever) would be much cheaper. Since this project is on the cheap, I'll take the advice...which is even cheaper! Thanks!!!!!! David

Roamer, if you want to build a Chevy motor for about $4K and want it to sing into the 8000 rpm range, then I would direct your attention to David Vizard's book: How to Build Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks on a Budget. He talks about light reciprocating mass: ie lightened Scat cranks, etc. If you are handy with tools, you can build an awesome motor using all the tricks and staying in budget IF you shop for bargains and don't skimp where you shouldn't. Read the book and you'll be very informed. Hope this helps! David

The best way to go about doing this is to first invest in the JTR book to see what a proper conversion entails. It should answer most of your questions. Hope this helps, David

I guess the argument comes down to taste: apples and oranges--I like RWD because it's much more fun IMO to be able to steer with the back end of the car!

Lone is correct in saying that with the added power coming out of a corner won't matter anyway because you'll be so far ahead! Car Craft did an article on their Mean Street Chevelle that they took autocrossing. Even though the car did NOT have a special suspension package, the 600hp and low profile tires were more than enough to stomp every Honduh--it was almost laughable, and that's with a BIG, heavy car! Think what a light car like a Z with a better suspension set-up and a mild V8 could do! Yeah Baby!!!!

Hello Terry!!! Glad to see you and your expertise at this site! You were very gracious in answering all my bodywork questions and such when I emailed you about 6 months back. You are a very welcome addition to this site and everyone will be able to benefit, even us Chevy guys! This is the friendliest, most open site I have found for Z's and Z conversions. Welcome! David Smith

I work at a car dealership and most of our FWD cars are equipped with traction control that can be disabled with the touch of a button. Once you do that, accelerating in inclement weather or around corners becomes a no fun proposition. Our AWD cars do very well in all conditions, wet or dry, but are not perceptively different in the dry, even at the limit (perhaps they are underpowered--oh! silly me, I'm in the HybridZ forum!) When we take RWD cars in trade, especially V8 and V6 powered cars there is a BIG difference between the two!!! RWD is the most fun, and a big V8 makes it that much better. Today an aquaintance gave me a ride in his Ferrari Mondial--it was quick and handled well (revved to kingdom come too) but it doesn't hold a candle to a V8 powered Z. The sex appeal of the prancing horse may be greater, but the fun factor of a hybrid Z can't be beat!

With your extremely limited budget, you could get everything you wanted with the 350/350 set up. The only thing you'll lose is the cruise rpm--you'll be turning a bit higher than desired although you'll meet your other requirements fairly easily (small price to pay). Study the JTR manual and memorize it. Do the very minimum in modifications required for the swap, source used parts when necessary, and you'll be just about there. Davys words of wisdom ($.02): Have the cash ready BEFORE you begin, otherwise this will be a VERY looooonnng project. Plan out every expenditure, otherwise you'll go way over budget in a hurry. I'm too meticulous and with a very limited budget, I'm still doing this project (not a car, but a project) for several years now. All because the money was not all there up front... Happy V8 conversion and best of luck! David