DavyZ

Drewz, your car looks wicked with the tunnel rammed TBI set up. Is that thing streetable and how does it work?

Why don't they make graphite impregnated urethane units so we could do away with lube altogether? They are not supposed to squeek (of course perception is not aways reality and vice versa) and would be a welcome product for our cars. Waddaya think? David

I wouldn't worry about the cost, Lone, that sounds about right for out here. I'm just trying to get an idea of how empty my wallet will be when I go out there... Sometimes it helps if they have a "holiday 50% off special," but who really wants to be there on a holiday when...ok, me...you could be BBQing steaks with the family and friends? JMO David

Lone, that's the one I'm going to use as well! Now I know what I'm looking for in the wrecking yard. How much did that baby cost you in the Sacto area, anyway? A new Flex 150 is $$$, so I'm hoping this is much better! David

Sounds like you're going about it from the right direction and have read a lot! Make a plan, stick with it, and you'll do it! David

Welcome to the forum Kent! I like your website, too! I was wondering when we would get some bruddas from the islands. Bummer about the speed limit though. At least on Kauai there is that looong highway that goes far around the island--too many tourists to do real racing, but what the hey... David

This is supposed to be a bolt-on operation. There was a thread a while back and someone had done this with no problems whatsoever. Ah, here is what the JTR manual has to say: "The power brake booster from a 280Z 2+2 is larger than the 2 passenger Z car and offers about 30% more hydraulic pressure for a given pedal pressure. This unit will not fit in the earlier 240Z cars because the clutch master cylinder is positioned too close to the power brake booster. If you are using an automatic transmission, there is no clearance problem." So, if you can even do this depends on which tranny you use. Hope this helps David

Evan is right! There was an article in Overboost.com in which they did a pretty extensive job of investigating the new "blue lights." The results were that the blue bulbs are a cheap rip off and even the so called "quality" ones like the PIAA's DO NOT actually put out more light. They do, in fact, put out a little less!! It's a simple law of physics, there is no free lunch and never will be! Now, other than the possible legal aspects of these lights (they are NOT legal in CA or in most other states, period) if one upgrades to halogen lights with these blue bulbs, as opposed to running the original ones, then yes, there will be "more" light. They have a unique visual effect and on a Z they are interesting, but still illegal even though it's legal to sell them in stores! Kinda like, "Hey it's ok to own a gun, but illegal to fire it within the city limits or show it in public or conceal it while carrying it" (stupid laws in CA). I don't have the link, but that article was from Overboost.com I personally think HID (high intensity discharge) lights are awesome because they use the same light, apparently, as what happens when a flashbuld goes off--that bluish white light. Real ones run on VERY high voltage and are $$$. I'll have to settle for the fake ones if I do it at all, but I'll stick to "regular yellow" halogens from Hella or PIAA. That will be on the "finished" car. I'm happy at the moment to have Kragen Auto Sylvanias right now David

Owen brings up a good point: do any trans tunnel work and undercoating work BEFORE doing the interior! I'll probably do it all at once anyway...

Looking good, Chuck!

quote: Originally posted by zfan: This sucks, I guess im stuck with sanderson block huggers for now. Mike, what is it that you don't like about the Sanderson units? I was at a show last week and saw their stuff--looks like top quality IMO--pricey though.

If you like the price on the Z, by all means purchase the car!!!!! The JTR method is not very expensive and you can even fabricate the parts yourself for cheap. Buy the car first, then the manual, then go to it!

Eastwood makes "UnderGone" (no, not for underwear) which is a chemical undercoat removal product. It's not cheap like turpentine, but should work well. Part# 31130Z.

Thank you, Joe, for making us all look slow

Isn't the shifter in some funky place like coming out of the dash? Pretty weird, but then again, that's why I'm here...One of the car magazines this month has a slew of Corvairs in it (as Pete alluded to) with V8s. The one with a removable top is fabulous and some of them look pretty mean all fixed up, lowered with wide tires, etc.

Evan, those Montes look better IMO than your other wheels! They are so much cleaner looking and really add to that clean Datsun 240Z design. We want more pics!!!!!!

I'll do fine with the 160mph unit, thank you very much! I like the looks of the new guages and now I know which way to go!!!

WOW! I can appreciate this, but I'm not sure I completely understand it. Bottom line is, 0-60mph under 5 secs is fast, and under 4 is insane! You are in the low 3's!!! You may need a neck restraint or something at the track, Scottie. If I can get my Z to do 0-60mph in under 5 secs, I'll do a Snoopy dance of joy and then blow away every riceboy in town.

You will do much better if you buy a car that is not advertised by some specialty car place--we have a few around here in the SF Bay Area and they are ALWAYS over priced IMO. Myron's car looked to be every bit as nice as that and his was faster (I think) before the recent engine swap. Be patient and keep looking, or build it yourself.

Good advice, Scottie, and I have to agree with you on that. There certainly needs to be an upgrade with respect to the brakes, even if it's the Toyota 4X4 upgrade. Not too expensive and seems to work well!

And you only paid how much for those wheels???? Man, they look good! David

If you can get $17K for the car, do it! First buy the JTR V8 conversion manual and read it cover to cover at least twice. As Morgan pointed out, you can easily purchase a V8Z for much less than $17K ($3000-$7000) and still have money left over. Or, you could build one yourself. One thing many guys do is drop too much engine in their project before ever riding in a "mild" V8Z in the first place. There are quite a few V8Z cars out there in TX; see if you can hook up with someone first to get a good idea of the direction you want to go.

I want to find out if the Naphtha is as good as it's supposed to be. Although, I do have plenty of carb cleaner around if the need to use the stuff ever arises...Fortunately, none of my cars has window tint and they never will!

Finally, I can comment on something I know a bit about. Mike, there are 3 ways of getting off window tint--I personally hate the stuff, because glass is not commonly smoked from the factory anymore and all ghetto cars seem to have the stuff which now looks cheap and longer classy... 1) The Razorblade Method. This is what our car dealership employs to get the stuff off. Use only the flat part of the blade, never a corner, to get it off. Get a special handle from the hardware store or tool store to get more leverage. This is a long and tedious process, but if you have decent glass, it should clean up nicely. 2) The "Easy-Off" Method. This is potentially harmful to your car and your health, but was employed by some of my "smarter" collegues at UCD. Take masking tape and tape off all surfaces around the window. Spray oven cleaner on the tint and let sit for a while until film bubbles or shows signs of comming off. Take a razor blade and scrape of residual plastic film tint. Don't ever breathe this stuff when spraying and use gloves! Although I have not employed this method, it apparently works. 3) The Car Craft Method. Yes, the magazine actually had a good article on removing the stuff, and the procedure goes as follows: (try to follow me here) On a very sunny day or the summer, take soapy water and wet down the tint inside the car. Immediately take 1 layer of a black trash bag and squeegy it over the tint so that it sticks with no or very little air pockets. After doing this keep the car closed and in the full sunlight. The heat of the sun on the closed car is supposed to make the tint adhere to the trash bag after 2 hours(?) and should be easily removed! I'm almost sure I remember this all, but anyone else is free to comment. Hope this helps you. Just judge what will work best for you. Anyone else? David

Darius, did your PermaCool fan have a shroud or not? I know that the Black Magic fan has one which makes it very effective...