long240project

Yes 13 year old strut come up perfectly...so did my original ones. If you were ever to replace them that would not be the case. Reason I replaced mine is because the car sat up for 4years while restoring. I didn't replace until after racing again and started experiencing rough landings. Now the old struts have no dampening on extension or compression therefore the landing is terrible. I have stood this car straight up in the pass with older struts that still had some dampening and you could not tell when the front wheels made contact with ground again. My problem exist due to laying the car up for so long. Watch car get up of shape....old struts

Bilstein will no longer re-valve one of their strut inserts to create a drag racing double adjustable strut. Koni will build one that is double adjustable and re-valve it for drag racing use. The measurements of the KONI inserts are not an exact match to the originals. The dimensions of the Koni inserts are a bit shorter than the stock and require a spacer to make up the length difference. The stroke however is the same and should be fairly easy to make work. The process of inquiring about this product was quite aggravating with both companies. I originally was quoted a price of around 800.00. I saved up the money over 3week period and called back to pull the trigger and the price changed. The final price for two struts is well into the $1000.00 Range far exceeding 100.00 per strut to re-valve. I am currently waiting for them to be built and will update with pics of installation which they arrive. I recommend asking for a quote upon inquiring about this process. Finally, I did replace my worn out struts with a new stock type pair from O’reily’s. it was a cheap $100.00 experiment. I too was convinced that a new set would slightly calm down the up portion of my launch and drastically change the landing…..It completely killed the launch!!! as it doesn’t allow the car to come up and transfer weight over the differential like it did originally. I just wanted to share my findings in hopes that it may save someone the trouble…..

Hi, I hope I am not missing a thread and this has been covered, if so please excuse. I can only find discussions about adjustable strut inserts on road racing applications. I have spoken to KONI's technical dept about revalving some for Drag Racing. They can Create one that has adjustment on both compression and extension for drag racing. I was wondering if anyone has overcame this through some other source or by having Koni custom build some similar? I know fabrication could allow for many different ways to resolve but I don't wanna cut up my stock strut assembly. Notice rebound bounce of car in video.... thanks in advance Lane

Logan 1 What are you primarily looking to do with the car once complete? I think it is very important to ask yourself that question with a build in order to determine direction with regards to suspension, engine components, "frame or chassis upgrades" etc. For example: I wish my car was more of a driver now that it is complete but the direction I chose engine,suspension and even fuel type wise is drag racing specific. At the end of the day I wanted to go Drag racing. That is not everyones goal. That is not to say you can't take a piece of knowledge from a drag car, a piece of knowledge from a road course car and some what arrive at a finish product that accomplishes your goal. Most people will agree that for every gain in one aspect you generally compromise in another so determining a cars primary function is key. Hope this helps a bit.

Pretzel eh? (Roll bar only) everything else frame wise is just like it was in 1972.

Rsicard, No problem at all. Fyi I had to order the Switch,Harness,Flasher through a Tractor/Trailer parts house that used the Grote brand. Once I received it, I extended the length of each circuit by buying strands of 16gauge wire the indentical color of each existing wire in the Grote harness and soldered and shrink wrapped it all at once. This step help to speed up the wire rough in a lot. It also made following the instruction simple. Give me a buzz if you have problems Thanks Lane

rsicard, Switch is made by Grote. Universal turn signal switch part #48272 also buy wire harness #69680 that plugs right into it and the flasher suggested. Your turn signals are now wired with a color coded instruction sheet which is ultra straight forward and explains it word for word. Hope this helps Lane

Sorry will take pics soon... trying to finish the car. Its driving me nutz

All, I am searching for the center portion of the rear bumper!! I have my bumpers at a Chrome shop and he is saying that portion is twisted and unrepairable! I registered for a Big Car show in a few weeks so trying to find a good donor piece to have re-plated. Please just call me if anyone has one as I am in a time pinch! Thanks, Lane Comeaux 225-229-6094

It's a ladder bar concept, going forward from where the pic ends it attaches to floor of car by way of a flat plate with a rod end. Will take pic and post.

Rsicard, The wiring project was kicked off a long time ago and is a done deal now. When the car was taken down I strip every single wire out of it. The car is in reality a race car so my wiring is super simple compared to trying to make every bell and whistle that it came stock with work. Will your SBC be fuel injected or Carb? You can buy an upgraded mini fuse panel that plugs right into the existing harness if you havent taken your wiring out as I did. Tell me more about the current state of the wiring and where you wanna end up and I am sure I can help. Also I will take some pics of the turn signal stalk I used!! Its super trick and super compact and has turn indicators that also light up self contained. It's hard to cover everything on here so if you are interested once i post the pics we can discuss via phone. If you want use my method. Lane