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CrayZ

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Everything posted by CrayZ

  1. Can a simple o ring change fix this or is it an internal issue in the injector?
  2. I have an aftermarket FPR and when I cycle the key it jumps to 50 or so and within 20 seconds settles down to 20 psi. I'm pretty sure the injectors are leaking.
  3. Hydro lock.. Man that scares the shit out of me. How can you check for leaky injectors?
  4. If n fact you are local. I assumed so by rebekahs post
  5. If in in fact you are local. I'm assumed so by rebekahs post
  6. Welcome! Good to see another local V8z I've been meeting quite a few guys lately. We should all get together once this thing is operational. I'm still pretty new to Z's and gm motors but I've learned quite a bit lately. Let me know if you need any help.
  7. I just want to say wow, I spoke with Edan this morning about a stage 4 rear kit and drilled/slotted rotors for the front and it shipped out 8 hrs later with a tracking number.. That is how you do business!
  8. Local big shot tuner here in houston quoted me $500 for a full work dyno tune and $75 for any adjustments after that. Might just got that route seeing as my knowledge on tunning is VERY minimal
  9. What "spare" wheels are you guys using? Im curious what are common wheels that can be used for a burnouts, slicks, yada yada. Common sizes from vehicles that can be had for cheap and have worked well for you guys in the past.
  10. Well I launched the car at 2k last night and everything has held together. Locking those stars into place and adding spacers has seemed to keep everything in place for now. Thanks a lot for all who chimmed in
  11. I would like to run a tune on my lq4. Been looking at HPtuners but I really don't want to spend extra money to have someone unlock my PCM. Can EFI live tuners work the PCM without having to buy credits to unlock the pcm? Anyone in houston area tune there own car? I'm looking for options local to me first but don't mind sending off my PCM to get worked. Anyone have any good info on this? I'm getting a hard start and what sounds like fuel in the exhuast on startup. Hoping a better tune can sort this out for me.
  12. My lq4 has a cobalt map sensor (previous turbo car) now it is back to N/A. I'm getting some dead spots in the throttle and a hard start 90% of the time. Curious if this cobalt map sensor could be giving me trouble?
  13. I hope so too, well see in a couple hours
  14. maybe we should try measuring from the to of the mustace bushing to the centerline of the bolt?
  15. You are correct the dif is slightly pointing downward. I was actually told that this was a good thing.. Supposedly drag car do this in order to compensate the dif being torqued upwards on hard launches. I have no idea if that is legit or not..
  16. I measured the car height (lowest part of the rocker panel) I'm assuming is the pinch weld. My car measures 6" clearance. From the bottom of the bolt in the mustache bar to the ground measures 11 3/4" I talked with techno tunning and they said they make two mustache bars. One that requires the frame to be notched and one that does not.
  17. I'm going to take a bunch of measurements here shortly
  18. But how??? The TTT mount is where it is designed to be. Not to mention there is only 1" of clearance between the top of the diff and the body.. The only way it could go higher is if the diff was mounted forward, which goes against factory design
  19. Side note: modifications I made to the axles I originally tried to cut it for one snap ring but these axles are made out of some SERIOUSLY strong stuff so I had to switch up the cutting tip. Double snap rings should work fine though.
  20. Thanks joe, ill check when I get home. For te time being here is a video overview of my rear end.. No pun intended lol http://i484.photobucket.com/albums/rr206/texastrini1986/E6FAC4DC-E743-46D4-9517-87E1379FEBD2-11017-00000E1E6A4247DC.mp4
  21. Another question I've been trying to get an awnser to is if the diff is suppose to be mounted slightly further back. Not only are the angles on the axles sharply pointing down wards but they are pointed back as well. The flange that comes off of the dif is not perfectly in line with the hub flange. With the driver wheels off (looking at the dif from inside the wheel well) you can clearly see that the dif sits further back taking the two flanges out of line. Thisight be normal, I don't know. Also if this diff is incorrectly mounted I would be amazed as the bracket that holds the rear of the diff to the frame is TTT I believe there is only one way to be mounted. Is there any other way the diff could be mounted wrong? Adjustment? Different mounting places?
  22. John I really appreciate your help. This Z community is great! You all have been a big help so far. I will do my best to get all of the required info tonight after work. For now I can give you what he told me. He did the sectioning himself. The shocks are tokico 5 ways and the spring rate is "whatever ground control recommended" appearently it is a popular rate found on hybridZ forums? Is there a way I can find out otherwise?
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