CrayZ

Yup, They rounded off the ends of the cups.. The rear end is solid as a rock. It just doesnt make sense to me.. hub side bump stop chweed to crap AND the cup was rounded off..

Full droop no spacer: http://s484.beta.photobucket.com/user/texastrini1986/media/A4560D6B-8357-4ED3-9351-0A0F37A48C10-8623-00000A65EF1F3759.mp4.html Fully compressed no spacer: http://s484.beta.photobucket.com/user/texastrini1986/media/FB67C75A-6657-4647-BE55-43322D1F08A8-8645-00000A699EA94CF9.mp4.html Full drop W/Spacer: http://s484.beta.photobucket.com/user/texastrini1986/media/AEA18D87-B935-46D1-B249-1B35A3B21C8A-8645-00000A6E77836F56.mp4.html Fully compressed W/Spacer: http://s484.beta.photobucket.com/user/texastrini1986/media/92915C57-AA52-4593-A335-EA637C18CF21-8668-00000A71B0D55B74.mp4.html No idea why it is grinding down the hub side stop and no idea how the bearings could be making there way past the ring on the hub side.. The diff side seems to be intact.. I know it is a bit hard to see in the last video but IMO the ball bearing really dont even get close to the where the clip would be. Now i did not take the springs out so there could be more travel but not more than 1/2" I just dont think there would be enough to allow the bearings to come past the c clip..

Cruising around town it runs around 190-200. It will reach 210 sitting at traffic. I'm pretty sure the fan is permenetly on.. I still think I might have an issue. I'm going to do another oil change and check for coolant when I eat this damn rear end squared away.

Oh and I can't seem to keep a set of rubber boots together.. Is this not an immediate sign that the angle of the driveshafts is to steep?

Quick question. If the wheel is fully compressed Inside the wheel well (axle being at its shortest) how will I know the proper clearance? When sliding the axle left and right will the axle hit the hub side bump stop before the diff side bearings reach the c clip? Is that how I know they are the proper length? Is there a certain formula or distance the opposing ball bearings need to be from the c clip when the axle has reached the opposite bump stop?

I wish I had a local shop or someone with experience with these rear ends local to me.

I think the best options is to take the springs out and reinstall the axles with boots off to watch the travel and where the bearings are.. You guys are right I just need to take a little time and do some looking.

My diff MM If its a simple as raising the diff a little higher and using the axles I have I would be all ears. The MM setup looks like it put the diff higher

I'm starting to think the diff might be mounted to low causing an extreme angle and unwanted stress.

I'm about fed up with this r230 diff and custom axles. Does anyone know a good shop in houston that has experience with converted S30's and the like?

Even with the spacer in place and wheels hanging I had between 1/8"-1/4" gap in between the companion flange and cup. From what I've read this is the sweet spot. That would have meant when the car is on the ground I have about 1/2" maybe more of axle movement. Is this not what is needed? I'm not sure I understand your logic of the stops needing to be longer. In my mind it would have only made the grinding worse and axle travel less.

What is te best way to verify this?

This is the passenger side, that is "intact" for now.. This angle is just makes me concerned, Is this normal?

clearly the stops are chewed up Not sure what you call the part that holds the ball bearings and rides inside the cage.. well it has worked it's way down the driveshaft and wedged itself there.. Once the spacers where in place (hub side on both wheels) the axles had about 1/2" movement give or take from left to right. The part that im confused on is this. IF they are still to short why are the stops chewed up? would that not indicate that they where to long? and if that where the case why are they pulling out of the cups again? Im confused.. incase anyone was wondering the spacers difered .200 from one side to the other. The passenger side seems to be ok for now, But i can hear what seems to be grinding on left hand turns (im assuming it is the shaft grinding down the stops) and there is a clicking noise on left hand turns

Well at least they work for now.. I can't get these axles to work to save my life..

Well I swapped the spacers out to the hubs and everything was going fine untill boom.. Snap ring came out ball bearings MIA.. I don't know what else to do here.. I'm about to say screw it and throw a 9" under it... I'm open to other options as well

Couple guys on LS1 tech confirmed this. Thanks!

well you guys where right. I filled up the jackets and let it run without the radiator cap on it for about 20 min and it stabilized around 196-201 degrees (very slowly climbing after that) I still feel like its running a little hot for my taste. Any suggestions to bring the temps down to say 190?

the strange thing is that is happened right after i had the exhuast made for it..

codes: p0480 p0481 p1258 I replaced the water pump, thermostat and did a full flush. The car overheats within 4 min..I have no clue what else it could be. The fan comes on when i cycle the key and stays on untill i turn the engine off Although This is how it behaved when i got it. There is a single 14" electric fan that pulls plenty of air.

Spacers are causing the bearing cups to rub the control arms.. I'm going to have to install them on the hub side.

Well i got the spacers made! bad news is I ordered the wrong bolts.. I ordered 10/1.0/45mm and thats not correct. Hopefully i can find a set locally when i get off tomorrow. Any idea what the thread pitch is?

Doing work on these spacers, Almost done.

I mean they have the whole rear end minus the axles.. What else would you need Besides the diff and axles?

Cypress, your more than welcome to come by and take a look etc. I don't mind in helping you out. Hell I'd be learning just as much as you as I didn't do the swap. I know where a dif is for 200 bucks.. I just bought the axles off of it a couple days ago