Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'brakes'.
-
So Im fairly new to this but Ive done a good deal of searching, and will continue to after this post. 72 240z, no brake mods First, I started having really tough braking combined with a hissing noise and idle speed jump. Searched and everyone says brake booster is the culprit. Prior to this issue, the brakes felt very normal ie. had progressively more pedal pressure depending on how hard you wanted to stop (like every other car). So I hunted for a reman'd 240z found one and ordered it. I got excited and put it in following instructions found online. Hopped in and took it for a slow test ride. Discovered very little brake feel until the very end of the throw then it was really grabby. Fiddled with the plunger rod and ended up having to swap tips (the old booster had a much longer tip), but still didn't solve the problem. Searched again and found that the "reaction disk" missing had very similar symptoms. The obvious solution was to grab the reaction disk from the old booster and put it on the new one. Low and behold, there's no reaction disk on the old booster..... go to check the new one and its missing too. Common? So now Im stumped because the old booster didn't have a reaction disk and brakes felt fine until the booster started leaking. Im thinking of going to the JY and trying to find a reaction disk. Any ideas on what to do now?
-
Good Evening, 1978 280z My right brake light is acting up. The bulb is ok, and it will illuminate when the lights are on, but will not illuminate due to the brake pedal action. The left light is completely fine. Ex: If lights are on, the right brake light will be illuminated on the dull setting but not increase light intensity when the brakes are applied. Not sure where to begin looking or what wire could be the issue. Tried to look at wiring diagrams but not really sure where to begin with that. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
- 3 replies
-
- Bulb
- Brake Lights
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
Hello All, I have a basically stock 1973 240z thats been lowered by the previous owner. Probably cut springs. I drive the car about 3-4 times a year so obviously it sits for long periods of time. I knew from a while back the brakes seemed to be dragging. Well I went to drive it yesterday and the rears are really dragging. The car will not roll even on a slight incline. If you jacked up the rear you cannot turn the wheel. The car will move forwards and back by the power of the engine in first gear but it will not roll. Let off the the power and it will not roll. I changed the master vac a while ago using a Cardone A1 reman unit. I recently verified that the reaction disc is in place. A new master cylinder was installed at the same time. So I need to know the proper steps to diagnosing this. If I unbolt the master cylinder from the master vac there is no change, the rear drums stay locked. The emergency brake is in the down (not engaged) position. I'm wondering if its the master cylinder but I have no idea how to test it on the car or off. The stock front brakes also seem to be dragging but nothing like the rears. Not even close. Still leads me to the master cylinder. In regards to adjustment of the rod from the master vac...not possible Maybe some are adjustable but mine would not budge a mm. Yes I can see it has threads behind the acorn shaped end piece but they appear to be simply decoration as that thing doesn't budge. I havent tried any PB Blaster on it though. If I open the rear hydraulic lines for each rear drum brake will that release the brakes? All brakes lines appear to be in working condition. I'm not sure if I had the emergency brake on when it was sitting for the last long period or not. Just want to drive this thing and now I can't. Thanks for all the help in advance.
- 17 replies
-
So nearing the point of getting my Z back on the road and I am having severe brake bleeding issues. Its a 73 240z w/ Toyota S12+ (non vented), '85ish Maxima rear brakes with DatsunPartsLLC brackets, and 15/16 Master Cylinder, and braided lines front and rear. Calipers and master cylinder were good prior to install. In a hurry (because I was moving) I put the master cylinder, bled the system and actually had pressure throughout the system, it was loaded onto a flatbed and towed to where I'm at now. I finished installing the e-brake, ran the car and I have squishy pedal, no pressure or brakes until I pump the brake pedal 3 times. I pulled the Z back in the garage and noticed upon the 3rd or 4th brake pedal pump and on it would "hiss" at the last inch of pushing the pedal. I bench bled the MC, re-bled the system, and still the same story, no pressure until I pump the brakes in rapid sequence and on the 3rd or 4th press. Also I'm noticing when I bleed the rear brakes I'm barely getting any fluid coming out, or at least no where as near as much as I do in the front. I have no signs of leaking anywhere (lines, brakes, distribution blocks, MC, booster), and I am at a loss. I'm considering taking it to a brake shop and have them bleed it with a brake flusher (so it bleeds all 4 corners at the same time). But I'm on a budget and would rather save the $$. Any ideas?
- 48 replies
-
- brake bleeding
- bleed
-
(and 2 more)
Tagged with:
-
I have none, and would like to be able to inspect the car next month. I'm looking to spend as little (time and money) as possible to get brakes that function (hydraulic and ebrake) and aren't completely seized. If you're not in New England, please include shipping to 03103 in your offer price. Thanks guys (and gals).
-
Is the bushing that the rear disc brake caliper guide pins slide into replaceable? It looks like it is, and I thought I saw it in a manual once, but I don’t see it listed in the FSM, and I can’t find a part # for it. My calipers sit rather loosely on those pins, and I’ve replaced the pins, so I suspect the bushing in the caliper mounting bracket might be worn. Does anyone have any info on this? I couldn’t find any mention of this in my searches. Calipers bolt to the pins tightly, but pins seem to have more free play inside those bushings than I'm used to. I'm getting a little noise from the rear passenger side when pulling away from a stop, and I've already changed the calipers, pins, rotors, and pads. 1982 280ZX