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Showing results for tags 'bleed'.
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Hi everyone, HybridZ is really where I come when I'm at a complete loss and everything I've tried hasn't worked. I'm going to be as detailed as possible so bear with me, I'll try to keep it concise. A few weeks back, I replaced the passenger side rear suspension assembly- everything from the control arm to the shock insulator. The driver side had already been replaced as it was previously damaged in a crash around the spindle area. At this point both sides of the suspension are from a later 280z. When I was adjusting the drums, the flathead I was using slipped and bumped the rubber boot of the wheel cylinder and a little fluid oozed out. Guess that explains my inconsistent brake pedal. I wasn't drastically losing fluid or anything, but it must have been a small leak that would occasionally rear its head and my pedal would be just a bit softer than usual. I grabbed an extra wheel cylinder I had that looked like it was in good shape and replaced it. That's when the trouble really started. I stripped the brake line bolt and the wheel cylinder threads. Bit the bullet and ordered a brand new wheel cylinder... cheap and not a bad thing to replace while I'm in there. I also got pre-flared brake line to replace the OEM one I messed up. I made sure it was Japanese style brake line- double flare and 10mm bolts. I "rented" a tube bender and shaped it as close to the OEM one as I could. I ended up with a 30" line as it was either 20" or 30" and I figured it was better to be a bit long than a bit short. Replaced the wheel cylinder, bolted the line up, made sure it didn't leak and didn't hit anything with the car lowered, and bled the rear brakes. Here's where I may have gone wrong- my understanding is the front and rear circuits are separate so leaving the fronts alone I only bled the rears at first. Finished the rest of my work and finally was ready to drive my car after not doing so for several weeks. I could tell immediately something was off. The pedal practically went to the floor right away but I could pump it and build up pressure. Ok, air in the lines or drum is adjusted way too loose. Checked both drums and they're tight but rotate as much as I want them to. Must be air in the lines still. Bleed the rears again and retry but it feels exactly the same. I think I bled my rear brakes about 4 times, then bled the front and rears, then bled the master cylinder, rebled the rears, and the pedal never felt different. On a recent endeavor to bleed the rears for god only knows-th time, the passenger bleed screw snaps in half inside the wheel cylinder. Fair enough, now I can have two new wheel cylinders. Again, cheap insurance. Replaced it, bled the rears again, and the pedal still feels the same. I get very light braking on the first push, but if I pump it quickly I get normal feeling brakes. Today I attempted to bleed the rears yet again. I bought a simple vacuum bleeder to do it myself. I'm a bit stumped because the driver side wheel cylinder just doesn't seem to want to bleed. I recruited someone to hop in and push the pedal so I could get a better view of what's going on. I crack it wide open and it seems like fluid is barely moving through it. On top of that, the pedal feels normal with the bleeder open and seems to build pressure better than with it closed! Is my cylinder bad? Am I going insane? To quote Zoolander... "I feel like I'm taking crazy pills!" I have a turbo motor waiting and this is really the one thing standing in the way. SOS!
So nearing the point of getting my Z back on the road and I am having severe brake bleeding issues. Its a 73 240z w/ Toyota S12+ (non vented), '85ish Maxima rear brakes with DatsunPartsLLC brackets, and 15/16 Master Cylinder, and braided lines front and rear. Calipers and master cylinder were good prior to install. In a hurry (because I was moving) I put the master cylinder, bled the system and actually had pressure throughout the system, it was loaded onto a flatbed and towed to where I'm at now. I finished installing the e-brake, ran the car and I have squishy pedal, no pressure or brakes until I pump the brake pedal 3 times. I pulled the Z back in the garage and noticed upon the 3rd or 4th brake pedal pump and on it would "hiss" at the last inch of pushing the pedal. I bench bled the MC, re-bled the system, and still the same story, no pressure until I pump the brakes in rapid sequence and on the 3rd or 4th press. Also I'm noticing when I bleed the rear brakes I'm barely getting any fluid coming out, or at least no where as near as much as I do in the front. I have no signs of leaking anywhere (lines, brakes, distribution blocks, MC, booster), and I am at a loss. I'm considering taking it to a brake shop and have them bleed it with a brake flusher (so it bleeds all 4 corners at the same time). But I'm on a budget and would rather save the $$. Any ideas?
I recently made some changes to my cooling system and am now having an issue or two. Before the change my temp ran right at ~180 degrees with little variation. Whether I was cruising, idling or driving "spiritedly" the temp stayed fairly constant. I was running a 16" electric fan, set up as a pusher (I know) slightly angled off the rad (3 core) because it was too big. Not a great setup, but it was working. I have since made two changes: I switched out to a more powerful 14" fan setup as a puller which has a good seal to the rad. When it runs, it's moving a ton of air, seemingly much more than the old setup. I also removed the water circuit for the manifold heat to my SU carbs. I assumed since this circuit ran parallel to the heater core that it shouldn't be an issue; worst case I just open the hot water valve and the coolant system is essentially unchanged. My issue: The car now runs hot (~210deg) at anything over ~1500revs. At idle, the temp settles right back down to ~180. While cruising, if I clutch it and let it idle, it drops down to 180. And, if I cruise slowly enough to keep the revs down, it rides around the 180 mark. As soon as the revs go higher, the temp runs up. What seems odd is that it drops down/up about as quickly as the guage is capable of moving, so I'm pretty sure it isn't actually changing temp by ~30 degrees that quickly. Even if I open the heater valve so that circuit is active, it behaves the same. I'm thinking that I have an air pocket stuck someplace, but I've done everything I can think of to bleed the system. Are there any tricks that I should know about? Does the manifold heat circuit really have an affect on running temp? Absolutely any help would be appreciated! Thanks! Rob