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So I had bought an S30 air dam from Japan this past summer but never got around to mounting them to the car until this past winter. I originally got air dam with turn signal cutouts because I was planning on doing front turn signal swap and going for a 240z set, now I'm not so sure. Anyway, upon install I realized that the air dam doesn't come close to the sitting flush against the mounting points near the headlight buckets. At first, I figured it might be because there's extra material on bottom of the mouth of the air dam but I assume that even after cutting it it still wouldn't sit flush on the mounting surface anyway. Additionally it seems as if the vertical faces on the inside of the turn signal cut outs aren't long enough to sit flush with the inner most edge of the mounting surface. Also when you have one side of the air dam seated flush along the fender lip, the other side is pushed away from it, which leads me to believe that the air dam's overall size is too narrow. Am I wrong in assuming that the 240z and late 280z air dams are similar in nature? I'm very close to just purchasing a fiberglass 280z air dam and redoing it in carbon. Apologies for the lack of light in the photos, I was doing this at about 11 at night.
I am looking to get a custom bumper / air dam for my 82 s130 non turbo. Any one know where I can get that or who I can contact? I am ok with different types of materials. Company names company links or forum posts helps. I am in the Nor Cal area thanks, -M
Hi everyone, HybridZ is really where I come when I'm at a complete loss and everything I've tried hasn't worked. I'm going to be as detailed as possible so bear with me, I'll try to keep it concise. A few weeks back, I replaced the passenger side rear suspension assembly- everything from the control arm to the shock insulator. The driver side had already been replaced as it was previously damaged in a crash around the spindle area. At this point both sides of the suspension are from a later 280z. When I was adjusting the drums, the flathead I was using slipped and bumped the rubber boot of the wheel cylinder and a little fluid oozed out. Guess that explains my inconsistent brake pedal. I wasn't drastically losing fluid or anything, but it must have been a small leak that would occasionally rear its head and my pedal would be just a bit softer than usual. I grabbed an extra wheel cylinder I had that looked like it was in good shape and replaced it. That's when the trouble really started. I stripped the brake line bolt and the wheel cylinder threads. Bit the bullet and ordered a brand new wheel cylinder... cheap and not a bad thing to replace while I'm in there. I also got pre-flared brake line to replace the OEM one I messed up. I made sure it was Japanese style brake line- double flare and 10mm bolts. I "rented" a tube bender and shaped it as close to the OEM one as I could. I ended up with a 30" line as it was either 20" or 30" and I figured it was better to be a bit long than a bit short. Replaced the wheel cylinder, bolted the line up, made sure it didn't leak and didn't hit anything with the car lowered, and bled the rear brakes. Here's where I may have gone wrong- my understanding is the front and rear circuits are separate so leaving the fronts alone I only bled the rears at first. Finished the rest of my work and finally was ready to drive my car after not doing so for several weeks. I could tell immediately something was off. The pedal practically went to the floor right away but I could pump it and build up pressure. Ok, air in the lines or drum is adjusted way too loose. Checked both drums and they're tight but rotate as much as I want them to. Must be air in the lines still. Bleed the rears again and retry but it feels exactly the same. I think I bled my rear brakes about 4 times, then bled the front and rears, then bled the master cylinder, rebled the rears, and the pedal never felt different. On a recent endeavor to bleed the rears for god only knows-th time, the passenger bleed screw snaps in half inside the wheel cylinder. Fair enough, now I can have two new wheel cylinders. Again, cheap insurance. Replaced it, bled the rears again, and the pedal still feels the same. I get very light braking on the first push, but if I pump it quickly I get normal feeling brakes. Today I attempted to bleed the rears yet again. I bought a simple vacuum bleeder to do it myself. I'm a bit stumped because the driver side wheel cylinder just doesn't seem to want to bleed. I recruited someone to hop in and push the pedal so I could get a better view of what's going on. I crack it wide open and it seems like fluid is barely moving through it. On top of that, the pedal feels normal with the bleeder open and seems to build pressure better than with it closed! Is my cylinder bad? Am I going insane? To quote Zoolander... "I feel like I'm taking crazy pills!" I have a turbo motor waiting and this is really the one thing standing in the way. SOS!
Hi everyone, I'm new to the forum (probably fairly obvious), but I do have an eBay account and am a member of a couple car groups on Facebook from my area. My eBay feedback is 100% positive and I've made purchases ranging from $10 to $750. I will gladly provide references upon request and do whatever I can to make the transaction more comfortable for you. I have a '76 280z, and I'm looking to get some parts to upgrade it asthetically. Here's what I'm looking for: - Air dam (280 style/no turn signal holes) - 240/early 260 bumpers - Adapter brackets for 240 bumpers on a 280 And they're not high on my priority list but if you have hatch window louvers or a rear spoiler I might be interested in those if they price is right. I'm also hoping to upgrade my exhaust system with headers and a new exhaust system, so the same thing applies for that. You can PM me here and/or email me at firstname.lastname@example.org. - Brandon