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About Pac_Man

  • Rank
    Always Here
  • Birthday 04/27/1993

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  • Location
    Everett, WA
  • Interests
    Guitar, S30s, Cars in general, and cooking.

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  1. You're talking about the one that goes on at the end of the turbo exhaust side right? I never could find one, but I went with an external wastegate and swapped the covers to block the internal wastegate hole. Doing that seemed easier than finding the right gasket. You could try using a 7 bolt one and drilling out a hole for the wastegate.
  2. I went from a stock L28 with an Exedy clutch to a stock L28ET with a Fidanza flywheel and Exedy OE replacement clutch. I didn't notice a change in driveability, nor did I have to alter how I drive the car.
  3. Found a picture for ya, best one I have.
  4. I wasn't aware of this... do you mean the rubber mount itself is different? I ended up getting a transmission crossmember from a 280zx turbo which has a little hump that moves the mount back 15mm. From research I discovered that the l28et t5 mount sits back 30mm, so I had a local guy cut and weld the middle section back an additional 15mm and it worked perfectly. Got a brand new custom driveshaft from Powertrain Industries with serviceable zerk fitting u joints for just shy of $300 shipped to my door. With the amount that the only local driveshaft shop wanted to set me up with what I needed, I still came out better. I don't think I have any good pictures of it all put together... it went (Turbo)>(3 1/8" [or 80mm] silicone hose w/fitting for PCV)>(AFM)>(3 1/8" to 3" silicone adapter)>(3" aluminum pipe)>(flexible intake ducting)>(3" aluminum pipe)>(3" air filter)
  5. I reused the alternator that was in the car previously. Externally regulated 280Z alternator.
  6. Haven't done much to it for a while until recently. I bought an intercooler so I've been working on getting that to fit well. I've got the outlet->intake mocked up but the turbo->inlet is proving to be much trickier. I managed to get my AFM situation figured out- had to relocate it because the intake pipe/filter went through the core support on the driver side but I'm using that space for the intercooler piping. I also added some extra grounds to see if the car would react at all... nothing. There's something funky with my electrical system, at least for my gauges. My oil pressure gauge reads low, my temperature gauge reads low, and my AFR gauge reads weird as well and the reading changes when I turn the headlights off or on. I'm still trying to figure out what could be causing it and the only thing I can really come up with is a low voltage signal to the gauges. I'll have to check what they're getting at some point. I decided to verify my oil pressure with a regular needle gauge which I screwed in place of the stock oil pressure sender unit. Mechanical gauge read ~40 psi at idle after a dead cold start. Not sure if that's too much... I didn't get a chance to warm it up and see if it dropped. At least I know that I don't have low oil pressure, but I wouldn't have guessed I'd be worried about the polar opposite. I still need to drop my transmission and inspect/replace the rear main seal and/or oil pan gasket at the back as well as figure out my dump pipe situation. I think I'll just have to take it into the exhaust shop... much easier that way.
  7. P90a heads have been documented as having factory solid lifters before. It's uncommon, but known.
  8. Have you checked your fuel pressure? That's a good place to start. Checking for vacuum leaks is also a good start. They're both pretty easy to do and don't require any fancy or expensive equipment.
  9. Like was previously mentioned, the stock l28et manifold has an emergency pop-off valve which will vent excess boost pressure at a certain point. Enough that I removed mine in order to run an 8 psi spring. It was a while ago, but I know that I removed it because it would have caused issues at 8 psi if I left it on. It basically creates a boost leak, which would make the car lose power and stumble until the pressure goes back down.
  10. Well my car has been at the point where I can actually drive it around for a while now but I have some gremlins which make it kind of sketchy and I want to try to pin down what my issue(s) is/are. Background of the car: 1976 280z, l28et swap Stock engine setup and ECCS, z31 coil, EGR deleted and blocked off, pop off valve removed and plugged. New battery. Alternator tests good. Brand new CHTS. New aftermarket FPR with a pressure gauge. Brand new O2 sensor. My issue lies in air/fuel ratio... I have a wideband gauge which I know isn't precise but can at least give me an idea of what the car is doing. Startup is difficult, and I'm under the impression that it's because the mixture isn't rich enough for easy fireup. Idle upon startup shows lean. Idle is also a bit high at ~1100 rpm. Not sure if that could be the cause, but I haven't been able to find any indication of idle adjustment on the L28ET throttle body like people have mentioned. The odd thing is after driving the car around and letting it warm up, idle AFR shows normal with a bias towards rich, which seems to be as it should be. Things get weirder, and this is why I think I have some kind of issue with grounds or something. Driving around normally, I can turn my headlights on and the mixture will go from slightly rich to slightly lean. Driving around with the headlights on indicate that it has a permanent issue of running lean with the lights on. I've had a heck of a time finding any indication of what could cause this specific issue, both looking through the FSM and google. I'm hoping someone on here can give me assistance since at this point I feel I'm in over my head. Thanks in advance, Pac_Man
  11. Well, you'd be lucky to get just a crank under $750. Building a proper stroker would be pretty involved and gets expensive pretty quick. Have you considered slapping a turbo on it? I know it's not everyone's cup of tea though.
  12. Alternatively, the Z31 turbo connectors can be cut off the harness and spliced in. I think they have a slightly different style of clip so they're more secure.
  13. Well for starters a 1970 car would be a 240z and a 77/78 would be a 280z. Open the door and check near the latch for the metal plate that's riveted to the body and it will tell you the manufacturing date.
  14. If the red charge light is on or the voltage gauge isn't working at all, then the battery won't charge. Just FYI
  15. That depends on your goals. I believe they're ball bearing but they have a ceramic turbine so they're sensitive to higher boost levels. Can't remember at what PSI they start to let go though, but I want to say it's something like 15 PSI is pushing it.
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