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Pac_Man

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About Pac_Man

  • Rank
    Always Here
  • Birthday 04/27/1993

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Everett, WA
  • Interests
    Guitar, S30s, Cars in general, and cooking.

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  1. You're talking about the one that goes on at the end of the turbo exhaust side right? I never could find one, but I went with an external wastegate and swapped the covers to block the internal wastegate hole. Doing that seemed easier than finding the right gasket. You could try using a 7 bolt one and drilling out a hole for the wastegate.
  2. I went from a stock L28 with an Exedy clutch to a stock L28ET with a Fidanza flywheel and Exedy OE replacement clutch. I didn't notice a change in driveability, nor did I have to alter how I drive the car.
  3. Found a picture for ya, best one I have.
  4. I wasn't aware of this... do you mean the rubber mount itself is different? I ended up getting a transmission crossmember from a 280zx turbo which has a little hump that moves the mount back 15mm. From research I discovered that the l28et t5 mount sits back 30mm, so I had a local guy cut and weld the middle section back an additional 15mm and it worked perfectly. Got a brand new custom driveshaft from Powertrain Industries with serviceable zerk fitting u joints for just shy of $300 shipped to my door. With the amount that the only local driveshaft shop wanted to set me up with what I needed, I
  5. I reused the alternator that was in the car previously. Externally regulated 280Z alternator.
  6. Haven't done much to it for a while until recently. I bought an intercooler so I've been working on getting that to fit well. I've got the outlet->intake mocked up but the turbo->inlet is proving to be much trickier. I managed to get my AFM situation figured out- had to relocate it because the intake pipe/filter went through the core support on the driver side but I'm using that space for the intercooler piping. I also added some extra grounds to see if the car would react at all... nothing. There's something funky with my electrical system, at least for my gauges. My oil pressure
  7. P90a heads have been documented as having factory solid lifters before. It's uncommon, but known.
  8. Have you checked your fuel pressure? That's a good place to start. Checking for vacuum leaks is also a good start. They're both pretty easy to do and don't require any fancy or expensive equipment.
  9. Like was previously mentioned, the stock l28et manifold has an emergency pop-off valve which will vent excess boost pressure at a certain point. Enough that I removed mine in order to run an 8 psi spring. It was a while ago, but I know that I removed it because it would have caused issues at 8 psi if I left it on. It basically creates a boost leak, which would make the car lose power and stumble until the pressure goes back down.
  10. Well my car has been at the point where I can actually drive it around for a while now but I have some gremlins which make it kind of sketchy and I want to try to pin down what my issue(s) is/are. Background of the car: 1976 280z, l28et swap Stock engine setup and ECCS, z31 coil, EGR deleted and blocked off, pop off valve removed and plugged. New battery. Alternator tests good. Brand new CHTS. New aftermarket FPR with a pressure gauge. Brand new O2 sensor. My issue lies in air/fuel ratio... I have a wideband gauge which I know isn't precise but can at least give me an idea
  11. Alternatively, the Z31 turbo connectors can be cut off the harness and spliced in. I think they have a slightly different style of clip so they're more secure.
  12. If the red charge light is on or the voltage gauge isn't working at all, then the battery won't charge. Just FYI
  13. That depends on your goals. I believe they're ball bearing but they have a ceramic turbine so they're sensitive to higher boost levels. Can't remember at what PSI they start to let go though, but I want to say it's something like 15 PSI is pushing it.
  14. Well, the new FPR definitely helped a lot. Of course the car still isn't running right... And it turns out I'm a dummy and don't know how narrowband AFR gauges work. What I thought was rich is lean and vice versa. Fuel pressure is where it should be but the gauge is very erratic with the car running. Not sure if that's normal. With my new knowledge I know that the idle is lean, not rich. FPR has helped a little but not much it seems. So knowing now that the idle is lean I have to completely change my way of thinking. Under boost the AFR gets richer so that's a good sign.. Here's
  15. That's the plan, sheen. I did make sure the lines are corrected right. I do have fuel in the return line, so if it is in fact a blockage my guess would be it's in the fuel rail since I didn't have an issue before. New FPR is on the way and it's adjustable with a pressure gauge built in. Worst case scenario, I end up with an adjustable FPR. We'll see how the car behaves after replacing it, I really haven't had the time to work on it (just started a new job yesterday).
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