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Showing results for tags 'vq37vhr'.
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I've been doing some research on the VQ37VHR, and my main goal is to make at least 425whp on natural aspiration. Meaning, about 450-475 to the crank given some mental estimates. In my case, the wheelbase is going to be shortened around 9.1in (100.4in --> 91.3in) to an exact. Added, a lighter flywheel, lighter driveshaft, etc. With all of this unadded load-travel, for a lack of better words, put me a little closer to that number? If needed more info on what exactly I'm adding to the drivetrain to achieve this, let me know and ill update with a more thorough list. ((edit; Z31-t chassis already has a curb weight is about 3,285lbs. My main goal with the chassis as well is to shed just shy of a grand in weight. This will be achieved with the full fiberglass (carbon fiber if time and money are right) silhouette with a full roll cage going through the cab. Firewall forward, and rear struts back minus the hatch will all be chopped off and replaced by rollbars and gussets. The attempted end goal in terms of weight is going to be 2,500lbs.)) With that, I don't expect to come near this number on decreasing the travel distance of power. The second question is, with this considered, would it be possible to comfortably make this power output, without tapping into the bottom end or increasing the displacement? The modifications I have planned for the top end includes, but isnt limited to, E85 tune, Billet Fuel Rails, Upgraded injectors, High-Pressure Fuel Pump, Performance Ignition Coils, Performance upper/lower Intake manifold, Cold Air Intakes, JWT V2 Cams, Valves, Ported & Resurfaced Cylinder heads, Dry Sump Crank Pulley, Dry Sump Oil Pan* (Kinda cheating with this one). I think this number is decently achievable, but the more research I do, leads me to finding less and less 400hp N/A VQ37s, at least those without tens of thousands of dollars invested. Don't get me wrong, the estimate is close, but not just for an engine. Apart from the questions above, I guess in general, is it even feasible? Does my theory hold any ground here? Will I need to start looking into the bottom end being build to make said power output? Any help/comments/opinions would be greatly appreciated!
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With the free time I've had due to being unemployed from this crisis I have had the time to put in some good hours working on my 240Z. I'll start this thread for my plans of my build in the long run: 1. Complete chassis restoration, rust removal, minor chassis strengthening 2. Stock VQ37VHR (using ZFever wiring harness and McKinney engine mounts) 3. CD009 6-speed transmission (using McKinney trans mounts) 4. Complete suspension overhaul with coilovers and TTT or Apex Engineered front and rear pieces (either a R200 or Ford 8.8) 5. Complete re-wire of the rest of the car (simplify the wire harness, Honda wiper and blower motor) The past few weeks have been reserved for completely stripping the car, finding damage and rust, and getting it ready to get sandblasted before going to my body work guy. I decided to avoid doing any sort of write-ups or videos on the chassis stripping because for the most part this is a pretty easy to disassemble car, but if you've got a rusty Z I suggest having a good deal of your favorite beer nearby and be ready to snap at least 25% of the bolts on the outside of the body. Interior removal was pretty smooth and can be done easily with simple tools and buddy to help with the dash and glass. GET A GOOD ORGANIZER BIN AND A TON OF SMALL BAGS TO KEEP TRACK OF BOLTS! One of the Z parts websites sells bolt kits, but having the originals well organized makes it easier if you plan on reusing your bolts and screws. Here is my Z sitting in the garage before starting the work. As you can see I have a pretty basic workstation, but my buddy who owns the garage has the other wall lined with toolboxes and equipment. Got the VQ37VHR sitting on my engine stand there on the left (Only 25k miles, pulled running from a rear end totaled G37, pretty lucky find) Old Engine Removed. At this moment I still have the engine for sale and will probably post it here soon. It's a running L28 with ZTherapy SU carbs connected to a 4-speed trans. Some bad rust on the front main frame rails, both sides. My floor pans and their respective frame rails are also kinda garbage, so I got a new set of floor pans from Zedd Findings and I am about to order the Baddog Frame Rails and rear subframe connector soon. Got the interior pretty much stripped down. Still need to remove glass, headliner, and steering column, then strip and remove the doors Fenders off. Need to find a way to modify that cowl drain, who designed it that way????
