Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Donations

    0.00 USD 
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

  • Feedback


Sanchez last won the day on August 17

Sanchez had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

1 Follower

About Sanchez

  • Rank
    Always Here
  • Birthday 08/05/1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Saint Louis

Recent Profile Visitors

3161 profile views
  1. @Ben280 I agree with you there, the heim joints for the AE kit are significantly better for handling, but it seems that the kit is very track car focused, but sacrifices for a lot of comfort for the street driver (and I live in STL which has the worst roads I’ve ever seen). But that price is really good and the construction seems bullet proof despite the R&D seeming a little rushed even to myself, and I am by no means a suspension expert. I agree again that bolt on style strut/coilover options would be nice, but in the same vain that option on the T3 version kinda sticks you with their coil overs which are good but there are better options available for weld-on available at a similar price. I would love to see AE make maybe develop or tweak this kit into a more road oriented option eventually even if it ends up costing more. But again I’ve never driven a Z that didn’t have stock suspension and it was all shot to hell, and I didn’t find it too harsh to enjoyably drive on Florida roads. So there is a possibility the whole solid construction would actually feel better than a Z with old struts, nearly bound up springs and 50 year old rubber.
  2. @boostfed PM'd you about the flares
  3. Got in touch with my cousin who been doing body work for 20+ years and he’s gonna be lending me some tools and a hand for the body work coming up so hopefully it will speed up the progress. I’ll get the floor pan fully welded in and get some progress going on the firewall/battery tray area this Sunday.
  4. Progress has been slow, only get a few hours each Sunday to work on the Z because works for me going 6 days a week due to staffing issues the past month. Anyway the passenger floor pan is tacked in with a few butt welds around it. Hopefully the driver side should go a bit quicker using what I learned from this process. You will notice some crap welds in the photos if you look close enough, it’s what happens when you forget to turn on the shielding gas for a few tacks lol. I’m doing plug welds along the rocker and butt welds across the rest of the floor. I think I will end up fabricating my own seat mounts for the stock seats.
  5. I’m doing my slam plate and I’ve been considering using panel bond adhesive for my mine. I have pitting similar to yours in a few areas and already cut out and patched the few area that had holes all they way through. I was thinking of using panel bond extensively over the potted areas and doing a few plug welds around the edges and on the two brackets that go above the license plate. I think the PB should help the rust from returning and some well placed seam sealer should keep water from getting back under there.
  6. @AydinZ71 The go to people for electronics on the VQ swap is ZFever/Fever Racing in Tampa. They do a whole rewire of the stock harness from a 370Z/G37 making it plug and play into essentially any vehicle, but they specialize in Z’s new and old. The price is around $2200 which is definitely high, but when you consider that it includes a license for the ECU ROM and software (I believe they use ECUtek, $700 by itself) used for tuning that is necessary for the swap it makes a bit more sense as to why the price is what it is. There are a few other companies who offer a similar service at cheaper price but I have never heard of anybody using them in a build for a Z or if they even tune the ECU so those may be a gamble but could save a good chunk of money if somebody makes it work.
  7. I know that this topic is about the AE subframe and 8.8 swap, but TTT did just release their 8.8 complete rear end swap so now we can compare the two options. However, when I looked at the price for the TTT version it did nearly give me an aneurism. So as it stands for me the AE option is winning in the “not-costing-me-three-months-worth-of-paychecks-department” but I do like that the TTT version has bushings for a quieter street car.
  8. @AydinZ71 I started a build thread under the Member Projects subforum so you can check out the progress there if you wanna see where I’ve gotten in the past 7-8 months
  9. Continuing the floor pans, it’s going slow because of my time constraints and trying to go slow and learn. It sucks both my floor pans were beyond just patching up. Also an order from Tabco came in last week with my rockers, fender patches, lower door skins, and rear hatch slam plate. I don’t think my welds turned out too bad for my first time welding on metal this thin on an actual car. Question time for the experts: When you are welding over pitted metal like the area under the rear slam plate would you suggest priming it and then seam sealing really well around it, or should I get a tube of chemical weld and use it almost like bonds and skim it so there is less of a chance water can make its way in and sit there?
  10. That is one beautiful Z. A crossmember designed for VQ engines in the Z is something I have been looking at constantly since I landed on the VQ37 swap for mine. I would love to see some photos of the crossmember and if you plan on selling them I’ll be first in line to try it out!
  11. @Zumf20c How’s the engine and trans mounting going? Any pictures or updates about the McKinney mount kit?
  12. Started on the floor pans today, my toe board/kick panels up to the firewall and battery tray on the passenger side also needs new metal so I got to grab some 20ga sheet metal this week and shape that as well.
  13. @DuffyMahoney Thanks for the support! @TUME Yeah I'm not very happy with the quality of the welds now that I can see them, but I did have the work done in High School when I was very low on funds and mostly just needed the car to not rust out from under me. While the welds are not pretty, the shop did an excellent job hiding them and getting the body right with bondo (I know bondo should only be used for minor stuff, not to the degree it got used on my car). And it pretty much stopped the rust in those areas. That is what got me looking at the ZTrix Subtle Z rear fenders. I really like the original look of the Z's without flares and it comes with the bonus of slightly larger tires (to handle that sweet VQ torque) and save me from having to recut and reweld the lower portion of that panel and fill it all in to get the shape right (or spend the crazy amounts of money on a whole replacement rear quarter).
  14. Sandblasting Video Link (Shameless Channel Plug). I’m the one in the shirt that says “Shop Staff” and the horrible farmer’s tan at the end of the video: 240Z Sandblasting (The Cherry Garage) Photo dump as I start body work... I really hate drilling out spot welds... My passenger side rear quarter is dented pretty good and I found where dents were attempted to be pulled out. I’m thinking I may start looking seriously at the Subtle Z fiberglass rear quarters...
  15. QUICK UPDATE: Got the car sandblasted yesterday!!!! The company I went with is local here in St. Louis and did an excellent job using fine crushed glass. Took about 4 hours and there is no noticeable warping to the panels (I did skip getting the hood sandblasted because it is such a large flat panel I think it would have been impossible to avoid warping it). For those of you thinking of getting the car sandblasted and want to get the rear underside without a rotisserie the frame is so light that myself and 3 friends lifted the shell onto and off the trailer, and tilted the rear of the car up in the air and rested it on a frame made 2x6 wood. I was hoping maybe some of you could suggest a relatively good primer to use to keep the car from rusting while I do the body work. Something that I can body fill over before using a a highbuild primer primer before paint? Here are some quick photos, video update coming soon.
  • Create New...