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Sanchez last won the day on August 17 2020

Sanchez had the most liked content!

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About Sanchez

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  • Birthday 08/05/1995

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  1. My 2 cents from when I installed a l28 (IIRC F54 block, P90 head from a ZX). If funds aren’t an issue now just make the engine track ready now with the compression ignition and triple carbs. Get the adjustable cam gear and tensioner mentioned (I wish I had when I rebuilt) and spend the money to go to an EDIS electronic distributor-less ignition system (the distributors for these engines just really start to have issues now after 40-50 years). Better fuel delivery and ignition timing will make detonation control a breeze even on those higher compression numbers and you should be able to safely
  2. @acpmick Your question about the gauges had me look at Speedhut website the other and see that they actually just released a line of JDM 240Z replica gauges using their gauge technology which look very similar to the originals with some great custom options. None of these were Can-Bus gauges I’m going to see if they can just transfer those gauge faces to the Can-Bus gauges for the tachometer.
  3. Looks to me like it should fit. The clutch slave cylinder doesn’t stick out much farther than the boot for the CSC hard lines. Though the CSC delete kit to me sound like it was designed to fix a factory flaw on these vehicles for people who daily drive their cars to the moon and back each day, but also if you are constantly wailing on your clutch at the track. I don’t know what your intended use for your car is but I plan on using one of the heavy duty CSC from JWT since I’ll just be using the car for nice weather fun. Even a factory replacement has a lifespan of roughly 60k miles from most re
  4. @acpmick Wiring wise the hard part is just finding the car to cut the VVeL sub harness out of, and then cutting it correctly. But if you take your time and make sure to trace wires between the connectors and be careful with your cuts it’s pretty easy. Fans are pretty simple. I don’t know how Zfever could retain the fan function because that is all controlled inside the IPDM. The ECU itself has no pin for a fan trigger, it sends can-bus data to the IPDM which controls a ground trigger to the 3 fan relays and a PWM controller module. I wouldn’t bother with trying to wire that mess u
  5. Before I disassembled my Z I measured a few and took some pictures (this one was edited so you could actually read the numbers). Between the door and fenders I found my panel gaps were all falling around the 5.5mm range, and the hood and rear hatch gaps were a little smaller in the 2.5-3mm range.
  6. @Gumiho3 My suspension will be Apex Engineered all around, likely the 8.8 rear end but they recently made it available with a 370z R200 rear end which would be nice for having to buy less things (wouldn’t need to also buy Ford axles just for the CV and could just buy a 370z driveshaft and have it cut to size possibly). They are also hopefully releasing their VQ engine mount front crossmember soon. As for fuel tank I like the look of ZFever but a universal in-tank pump like the aeromotive stealth or a “black box” seems like a better way to go and while installing it you can get in the
  7. I have been to their shop 2-3 times while I lived in Tampa with my Z as my daily driver to check out the shop and for a multipoint inspection before taking my Z on a 1000 mile trip back home to the Midwest. I’ve heard some good things from other people in the area who have work done directly with them, but haven’t experienced dealing with them through online storefronts like eBay or general shipping. I will say Hexagarage’s product works, it’s 1/2 the price of Zfever, and I had my harness back in my hand within 3 weeks of them shipping it. Matt did say they continuity res their harnesses befor
  8. @Gumiho3 I’ve been deliberating that along with my flywheel choice too. The ZFever seems solid and measured out very well for a swap but I think only comes with an R200 as the rear end, and I’m planning on a Ford 8.8 so I’ll probably need to go completely custom. I may just bite the bullet when the time comes and have a carbon composite shaft custom made, looking around it’s surprising how relatively cheap it is to have driveshafts made in steel, and aluminum and carbon are only a bit more expensive. I would not trust myself to modify a carbon shaft personally and it seems to me that alum
  9. @rossman Thanks! It was a big relief to figure out the problem after spending 3 weeks pouring over hard to find diagrams and ECM logic charts to figure out it was just one simple broken wire. Would have never figured it out without a high end diagnostic machine that could read values my normal OBD2 app couldn’t. My friends who own the garage got a video of it firing up with some revs so I’ll post it up when they upload it to YouTube. I’m using TinyCad because it’s free and has a lot of options. I can make my own switches which is nice but wire color options are lacking and the diagra
  10. Got the engine fired up! It took bribing a local Nissan/Tuning shop to bring over their CONSULT III machine to discover that the ECU was never getting a “Start” signal because there was no continuity from the Neutral Position Switch back to the ECM. A simple and easy issue to fix but one that is near impossible to diagnose without professional equipment or continuity testing 150 individual circuits. the engine fires up in 1/4 second and sounds healthy and shoots some pretty nice flames out the headers so It looks like I’m done with half the wiring on the car which is a relief since
  11. @gumiho Yes on + side I have the ignition wire to a switch, ECU battery connected, VVeL battery, and fuel pump relay positive, along with starter and and alternator leads attached. On - side I have the 4 labeled ground wires, fuel pump ground, and an engine to battery ground. When I turn on the ignition switch I hear the throttle body motors whine (which a friends G37 does too so I assume thats normal) and when I tap the starter wire to battery + it cranks (OBD2 scanner shows cranking RPM at 160). Got a quick fire on starting fluid so there seems to be power at the coils but for some
  12. @Gumiho3 Over the holiday I went to fire up my engine with the HexaGarage harness and ran into an issue. I had everything wired up how they labeled it but seem to not be getting and pulse from the ECU to the fuel injectors. We got it to fire for a second by spraying starting fluid in the throttle body but the injectors just aren’t pulsing. I emailed Matt at Hexa and I’m waiting to hear but is there anything I may be over looking that you used to fire yours up? We were thinking maybe the clutch pedal switch to tell the car my foot is on the clutch or something?
  13. Agreed, forgot to mention this in my post. There are even quite a few modern cars that release TSB’s for diff fluids to combat chatter and whine. Another additional comment I didn’t put in my last post: You can’t go wrong with an 8.8, InvincibleExtremes, Apex Engineered, or TTT all have options and they’ll all give you option to run off the shelf parts that will continue to be fairly cheap and easy to source for easily 30+ years from today.
  14. Just listened to the video it’s definitely a pronounced whine which has me partially agreeing with @bunkhouse. But maybe a few more questions and tests would help pinpoint the problem area. 1) Find a good long on/off ramp to a highway that has a good curve to it where you can safely keep the the speed where it whines throughout the turn. Does the whine change, get worse, or go away? 2) Lift the rear end so all weight is off the suspension, start her up and take it through your common drive cycle where the whines occur. Does it go away or still persist? 3) If you have a friend wh
  15. I’m definitely going to tie it all together from front to rear. Any reason for choosing 2”x2” and 0.125” thick metal? That seems like it might get tricky to weld to 18ga steel, at least for a novice welder like myself. How did you notch it and add metal for the holes where the subframe bolts with 2”x2” I measured that the middle of the bolt holes actually go into the lip/seam where the rail and fender wall meet?
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