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Sanchez

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Sanchez last won the day on August 17 2020

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About Sanchez

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    Always Here
  • Birthday 08/05/1995

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    Male
  • Location
    Saint Louis

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  1. @Gotham22 Yeah the AC wiring complicated the wiring around the front cover a fair on the early Z’s. My 73 240Z had dealer installed AC that had already been removed when I purchased the car. I found about 5 wires associated with it bundled into the harness that were cut and terminated, but visible which made tracing some stuff difficult. And these wires weren’t referenced in the Haynes manual. The 280Z diagram may actually have AC wiring because it was probably a bit more common addition around the end of the 70’s. AC wiring is a good place to start, but have you done any (or previous
  2. From my recent experience with sorting out and selling the L28 from my 240Z, and helping a friend with a SpeedHut gauge install, it seems that even when the Z’s were new (Before previous owners started hacking up the harnesses for whatever reasons) is that there were a handful of stock wires that seemed to serve no purpose and don’t really go anywhere. My guess is that nearly all the harnesses from 70’s Z cars were designed with automatic transmission wiring and factory option wiring installed to save time and money. Unfortunately the Haynes manual doesn’t show these wires in specific diagrams
  3. @AydinZ71 Yeah the blower intake seems like an area pretty prone to rust and causing issues in the cowl. I’m surprised that I haven’t seen more impressive engineering solutions to the stock part other than just recreating it. My thoughts are, with the Civic or Kia blower motor a lot of people upgrade too, is how necessary is keeping the chimney the stock volume? Could I find a way to weld a plate in to flatten the area, cut a hole and weld some 2-3” diameter flared exhaust tube and not cause any bottleneck to the air flow? I plan on trying to figure out a way to make water drain better ar
  4. This Sunday I finished up all the welding of my passenger floor pan, ton of work having a buddy hold a flash light from the under the car to see all of the small holes here and there but it is fully in place (minus a frame rail, ordering those soon). Waiting on a sheet metal punch to finish up the firewall now that I have all the metal cut and then I have to figure something out for that little fan blower intake chimney in the cowl area that’s rusted through. I may just weld it smooth and make the system pull cabin air or modify it to take fresh air from the passenger side fresh air duct.
  5. If keeping it Nissan isn’t a priority than I think the LS is the best bet for reaching your power goals, but won’t get you that import sound you mentioned. I’ll throw in my own build engine the VQ37VHR but any VQ can get you close to the power you want with a bit of building and a turbo. Plenty of single turbo, twin turbo, and supercharger options, 8k redline and makes the car front-mid engine with the entire engine squeezing behind the front tires. More and more people are swapping to the VQ and more companies are making support for them. The manual trans that mates to them is pretty much bul
  6. I do agree with @Zetsaz that this thread could use more input and photos and information on performance/install of the AE subframe. It would be nice to hear and see more peoples experience with this part even though it seems like for the most part once the pieces are in your garage it is pretty straightforward to put in the car. Also saw the update on their website recently that the subframe is being updated to use the 370Z diff which gives the option of using an open carrier, VLSD (sport model, but have heard negative reviews on it by 370Z owners), or adjustable LSD (Nismo model). At
  7. I will agree with everyone above that when dealing with unknown stock suspension on a Z to just play it safe given how easy it is to disassemble the entire strut tube. Those videos were likely done by people who had already redone their stock suspension so they know what kind of oil (if any) they put in the tubes and what struts they had (though cutting through a strut is something I would still never recommend). You definitely don’t want the oil to ignite from a spark and definitely don’t want a strut blowing up on you. If you really want to avoid renting a spring compressor you can do w
  8. Not really a progress update on the car, but I did just adopt a new helper who may eventually learn to fetch me tools. You can see a bit of the Z in the background. She’s settled in nicely at home so I can start bringing her to the garage and get back to the body work after this 2-3 week break.
  9. I’m gonna 2nd what @AydinZ71 said above about getting a LSD. The R200 itself can handle the VQ torque (the 370Z/G37 have a more modern version of the R200). It’s your Half-shafts that you need to be worried about. Techno Toy Tuning has great, but pricey, rear suspension setups that use a R200/230 or a Ford 8.8 complete with CV axles. The kit by @Invincibleextremes changes the entire rear suspension to use regularly available of the shelf parts from mustangs and neons with a Ford 8.8. And Apex Engineered has a whole subframe that allows for R200/230 and Ford 8.8 (I’m going with Apex, and they a
  10. I got mine from a Hybridz member, so I’m not really sure on the efficiency of shipping from Japan. As for welting it’s not necessary, really depends on the look you want and what sort of driving you do. My car will be a nice weather cruiser maybe the occasional track event and car meet, and where I live the roads are terribly rough so I’m planning to use it for peace of mind. I’ve seen plenty of pictures of them flush mounted though, it probably will just take some extra work to avoid gaps that would otherwise be filled with some pliable welting. I have the deluxe regular width fla
  11. @Gumiho3 Good to hear about Hexa Garage, I’ve been speaking with the owner and will probably get my harnes done in 1-2 months. You can use 16ga if you want, the stock is 18ga though for floor pan and firewall metal. If you’re good at welding and lap the patch it shouldn’t be difficult. I’m sticking to stock metal thickness throughout my repairs and doing the strengthening at specific stress points on the body later.
  12. I just got a set of Marugen Shokai flares and the fit is great and shouldn’t need welting like some flares do to sit flush with the body, but I would definitely suggest some kind of welting behind it. While the fiberglass seems good quality and tough any kind of chassis flex back there will slowly but surely start to pull pieces apart, crack it, or spiderweb whatever coating you put on it.
  13. If you plan on selling your car then for sure follow @grannyknot advice. Next owner may decide they want a bumper. If it’s going to be your life long car than smooth it and make it how you want it. I agree with @rturbo 930that a totally shaved and smooth roll pan looks a little plain. My plan for my roll pan is to make it from a new sheet of metal and have a buddy use his CNC machine to smoothly cut out the letters “DATSUN” in the back and put a lighted backing behind it to give it some character. But I don’t plan on selling my Z until it becomes impossible for me to drive.
  14. Good luck to you! Not saying that sarcastically, genuinely good luck. I agree we need to try and save as many Z’s as possible, and while that one is a big old mess those pictures make it look like somebody started to work on it a decade ago and gave up. Most of the rust looks surface too so it may not be too far gone, but I can tell you that you should definitely keep an open mind about looking around for a parts car otherwise you’ll be buying a lot of the missing pieces one by one and that will add up fast. You didn’t mention your auto mechanic skill level, but if you’re a quick-learning
  15. Firewall/kick panel coming together. Anybody else attempting to work this area I would definitely suggest breaking it into sections and not trying to make this as one piece. There’s just too many bends, folds, flanges required unless you have some industrial metal working tools.
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