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Sanchez

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About Sanchez

  • Rank
    Regular
  • Birthday 08/05/1995

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Saint Louis

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  1. Just picked up a running VQ37VHR from a t-boned 2011 G37 with 25k miles on it, with the EFI/Engine harness (unfortunately two of the connectors got smashed up a bit) so I will probably be starting a thread soon on my build progress. Also pulled the VVeL module and cut the subharness from a different G37 a week ago, and I will be posting about how to correctly do that after I get confirmation from ZFever that I did cut every thing out correctly. If you are in the market for a running L28 with Ztherapy SU carbs and a rebuilt 4-speed keep an eye on the for sale section.
  2. On the 350Z/370Z and G35/G37 forums there are a number of threads going over FI for the VQ motors. I have done a fair bit of research into it even though I will almost certainly be happy with a mild street build NA power (honestly I think for putting a VQ into a 240/260/280Z the single supercharger looks like the cheapest and easiest solution and would be my go to over turbos). For a S30 chassis non of the premade turbo kits will work, just to put headers on your VQ for the 240Z requires custom manifolds, so any turbo manifolds and piping will be mostly custom pre-fab stuff. As for spool times twin turbos are gonna feel better on the street as they will come on sooner and make a nice curve, but trying to hit 600HP on a VQ with single turbo is going to require a pretty large housing and going to have a steep torque curve later in the RPM range depending on other engine mods.
  3. The more I’ve been trying to figure out building my own harness for a VQ37 swap the more I believe the ZFever harness service is worth the money. At their price point for a plug and play harness it is worth knowing that it was tested on a good running motor in their shop (which I’ve been to a few times with my Z in the Tampa area) and it comes with a UpRev tune and license to fire right up. In my personal opinion most early Z cars are worth restoring with L-series engines or RB engines to keep that pure Z-car feel. But as L-series engines struggle to make the power we want with out a balls-to-the-wall build, and the RB engines become more expensive and scarce I believe the VQ swap should become more common and excepted as a way of preserving these cars long into the future. All of the number and budget crunching I have done shows the price to have a VQ37VHR mounted in a 240Z with the CD00x transmission and custom driveshaft to cost as much as a LS or RB25det swap, and cheaper than an RB26 by a modest amount (I’ve yet to find a complete long block RB26 stripped of turbos/harness/ECU for less than $3000). Just as an update on my progress: My friend has recently purchased garage space which will become space for projects and started a YouTube channel to showcase projects/builds and make content for vehicle maintenance and component installation. In the coming months we will start a video build log of my 240Z as we resto-mod it with a VQ37 Check it out at the Cherry Garage on YouTube Cherry Garage
  4. Did a little digging into the 370Z factory service manual and found a pin out of the ECU. Using some other information I came across online I think I’ve narrowed it down to 30 pins (and respective wires) necessary to fire up the engine and keep it running right. With this it could make it much easier to do the VQ37 wiring harness ourselves for the DIYers. I’ll try and post up a picture when I get some free time of which pins I believe to be crucial to operation and maybe some of you more experienced with these engines could chime in. My only road block is learning about the ECU rom editing using Osiris/Uprev because I can’t find any videos going over the software, or how to make changes so the engine won’t look for or require signals from the NATS/BCM/IPDM. Hopefully somebody on this forum who has used it before for any VQ engine could shed some light on the situation. My hope and goal beyond building this car for myself is making this swap more accessible to the DIYers so we can get some more of those older Z’s resto-mods on the road.
  5. The way I see it is that a VQ37VHR will cost roughly the price of a donor vehicle and the wiring/ECU modifications from Z-fever. So $2000 for salvage vehicle + $2250 for Z-fever = $4250 to just have the engine/trans running ready to go into the chassis. Add mounting kit, driveshaft, and gasket based on the mileage for another $1500 = $5750 for the engine in the car making the tires spin. You can recoup some of that parting out the donor car. Giving you 306hp and 270tq from an N/a motor with an 8k redline and room to improve that power. From what I see that is the same price as a good aluminum block LSx swap or an RB25 completed swap, and about the same price as just an RB26 before you even put it in the vehicle. Plus once the VQ is in and wired it’s quickly becoming the cheapest to replace.
  6. I am a fan of the VQ37 for keeping the car Nissan and using an engine still from the Z family. Z-Fever made the point that the VQ37 is in so many Nissan cars that it’s starting to become a throw-away engine, that almost every scrapyard has a wall full of them and are trying to get rid of them. I can get a whole engine assembly with 52K miles on it right now for $750 or a whole salvaged g37 for $1200-1700, so his point makes sense to me. Basically once the engine/wiring/everything is set up and swapped, should I ever blow the engine replacing it would cost just as much as sourcing a new LSx motor.
  7. Hey guys, it’s been a while since I posted on here because my Z had been a hot streak of not having any critical. Now that I’m out of college, have a good job, and a new daily driver I finally was able to put my Z up to get prepared for restoration. I have been toying with the idea of a VQ swap, and having spoken with Z-Fever/Fever Racing he made some great points to using the VQ37 as a power plant. He sent me a bunch of info PDFs about doing the swap and the stuff involved and what they offer to make the swap easier. They customize the ECU rom to bypass any unnecessary portions of the harness and modify the engine harness to need a 12V source, ground, and start relay so the engine can run pretty much standalone, and it comes with an Uprev license. I was wondering if anybody had done these things themselves and could offer a bit of insight into making the wiring something that can be done DIY style. I am the type of person who likes to do the work and learn as they do it, and I like to know my car front to back which is why I am interested in trying to wire the thing myself before paying to have it done. Not to mention it would be great if I could get this done for just the price of the Uprev/Osiris software as I have access to an endless supply of wire, wiring tools, and wiring hardware. Thanks in advance for the help
  8. I forgot to specify, I have no mechanical pump cause I have an L28 with P79 head. I have an electric fuel pump at the tank with a splitter/pressure regulator (of unknown origin, but PSI is within 3.5 spec for carbs) and a fuel hose running from each outlet on that to a carb. I'll post photos later when I am done with classes.
  9. Thanks for the outline, it was a bit of a confusing photo. From what Beermanpete is saying I should be able to trace it back to the tank, disconnect it at the tank, and seal it off well. Or is there any benefit to using the fuel return with an electric pump and how would I go about doing that since the previous owner deleted the stock fuel rail and ised fuel hose instead.
  10. I got my car up and running after being down for a few weeks with a bad case of old wire syndrome. This smoothed out a whole lot of electrical issues and all of the systems seem a helluva lot more stable. But in that time I started a new job, and I cannot drive this car at all without saturating all of my clothes with the sweet smell of gasoline (not to mention the girlfriend won't let me drive her anywhere in it cause she can't stand the fuel smell). I have read all of the posts about fixing the fuel/exhaust smell in the cabin, plugging firewall holes, real hatch seals, getting mixture set right (still working on that one), etc... and I am going to tackle those soon. I also found out that the lines from the fuel fill to the tank leak when slightly overfilled and I am correcting that now. I also remembered a bit of advice given to me by a Z-Expert when he worked a bit on my car about a line running from the tank to original mechanical fuel pump. He suggested a way to connect it to the intake manifold using a valve and some other fitting, but I forgot where to run the hose to and what direction the valve needs to face. It is the hard line that my fingers are on. Any information on what to do with this hard line would be greatly appreciated. Is there pressure running through it, should I run it with the rubber cap for the being or could it cause other issues? Thanks for the help fellow Z-enthusiasts!
  11. Thanks for the info. I'm actually currently a student at Eckerd College in St. Pete. Like I said I've rebuilt the L28 currently in my car, so I generally do my own engine work. My main fear is that I may have warped the head and will require a new one or a resurface. So if you have any advice on a trusted machine shop in the area, or a junkyard/pick a part you have had luck at finding Z car parts, it would be greatly appreciated.
  12. Hello Hybridz: I just moved my Z-car down to St. Petersburg, Florida and experienced a disaster the other day during a pop up storm and I was hoping to make some Z owner connections in the Tampa/St. Pete area in case of an emergency. The other day I was in terrible traffic on the highway during a heavy down pour and my car started making a chattering noise and seemed to have lost the ability to accelerate. I noticed that the temp gauge was pegged at 250 so I started to plan an escape route off the highway but I could not see 20 feet in front of me. I probably ended up driving at highway speed for 5 minutes before I could get off the highway and let the car cool down for an hour. Turns out a freeze plug popped out on the highway and the heat from driving started to melt my valve cover gasket and bubble the engine enamel I put on the head during a rebuild. She still starts and seems to run like before this incident but I'm afraid It could have warped the head. I can do a decent amount of work my self if something goes wrong, but I need the community to clue me in on trusted names in this new city. Back in St. Louis I had a guy called the z-man who owned a z-car junkyard I would scavenge for parts. My question for other z-car owners in Tampa is: Where do you go for spare parts? Are there any shops that you would trust to do work on your z-car? Any notable machine shops in the area that you have had work done at? Thanks so much!
  13. I was able to source a part locally so this ad/thread can be closed.
  14. Alright so I thought maybe I just wasn't being aggressive enough with the break in cause I was babying it just to be safe so I got the new fuel pump and took it to an empty stretch of highway and ran it through the gears up to 6500 in the 1st 2nd and 3rd... And Tasaday the engine noise went away, the idle went up and it took on a whole new rev happy life that sounded clean and pretty crisp. The shake went away and the idle increased from about 800 to ~1000. Unfortunately it became a tad too rich and tried dropping the mixture with out my unisyn or vacuum gauge and sorta threw it a bit out of tune but I'm sure once I get the tools from my garage it will all be sorted out. The only bad part about this is that my rebuilt starter now sounds like it's grinding a bit when I crank it or fire it up.
  15. I am in need of a clean 280zx exhaust manifold for the P79 head. A stud broke and I have clamped down that side just to be able to drive it short distances but it may have a small leak causing excessive noise that makes it hard to listen for any unwanted sounds during my engine break-in period. Needs to be leak free and broken stud free. I am open to headers if you can cut a good deal on them as long as they relatively new, come with adapter, and are from MSA's newer batches of headers, since I know a few Z guys in my area who bought them when they first came out and found them to be less than satisfactory (apparently MSA did some work and updated their product). I will pay shipping as well on any purchases.
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