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Sanchez

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Sanchez last won the day on May 30

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About Sanchez

  • Birthday 08/05/1995

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    Saint Louis

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  1. Been a hot minute with work getting busy as more staff change over happens and finishing up the plumbing for the front of the garage building… oh and all the car shows which always happen on Sunday’s my one day off each week. Got the seal kit for the 8.8 and I’m waiting on the 3.7 ring gear and trak-loc to arrive. Just wanna get that all buttoned up and stuff it out of the way. And started on the front frame rails. My car suffered from rust at the sway bar bushing mounting points and those little pockets that allow you to reach the subframe bolts so I’m doing everything from the subframe mount location forward to the lower radiator core support new/custom. Still using 18ga and hoping that the car won’t fold in half at the weld when I hit a pothole. I did botch the channel in the photo by about a 1/4” on the top face so I’m gonna remeasure and try again to get it closer.
  2. @Zetsaz @berton Video is up. Ended up being a longer video than expected so editing took a while. 240Z Steering Rack & Column
  3. Shout out to @ohmster101 over at Apex Engineered! The front subframe and VQ mount kit arrived while I’m still slowly making progress on the front rust. Check out the video linked below for the Steering Rack and Column rebuild with VQ parts at the end. 240Z Steering and VQ Subframe
  4. @Zetsaz Yeah I’ll link in this thread along with my build thread. Just got most of it filmed yesterday, so should be up soon. I have the same issue with tensioning that you have. My guess is that the best way to go about essentially “seating” all the metal on metal contact points back in is to run it loose while the brass is still touching the rack shaft to let them “lap” each other smooth then you should be able to re tension and maybe do that 2-3 times while turning it lock to lock a couple dozen times between each. The rack and steering column were clearly designed to be replaceable items instead of items a dealership would rebuild back in the day, so that’s why I get the feeling the FSM and manuals don’t have a ton of detail on these pieces.
  5. I just did my steering rack, shafts, and column very recently. At the very end of each side of the rack there is a brass lined steel bushing that holds the rack centered in the tube. Your actual rack will never touch any other parts of the tube in the housing. You have a 240Z rack housing which means that the bearing for the pinion is only sealed by a press fit on plastic cap instead of the the bolt/gasket style of later models. Likely your pinion seal let water in which made its way past the bearing and sat just under it for a while allowing the corrosion to happen. The good news is that your pinion or rack will never actually touch that area so I would suggest trying your best to convert that corrosion to stop it, and maybe a high grit barrel sander or grinding stone on a dremel to smooth it out some and it should be good to go. ZCarDepot had quite a few hard to find steering rack parts including that pinion seal and a new koyo bearing that was a perfect fit after a little scotch bright on the pinion and housing. I’ll be posting a video on our garage YouTube channel soon because I found that there are parts on the rack that were never in any diagrams likely because they intended on them never being part of servicing.
  6. Additional small update: Ford 8.8 from 2008 Ford Explorer arrived yesterday afternoon, 102k miles, turns smooth. I plan on on getting a master rebuild kit Eaton TrueTrac and 3.73 gears.
  7. Quick update: Passenger firewall patch finished up. Now I’m waiting on a laser ruler to align the main front frame rail and weld it in. Got talking to Apex Engineered and they are letting me get in on the VQ swap front crossmember and mounts preorder!
  8. I had a similar problem with my SUs after getting them back from ZTherapy, who did an excellent job. And my issue was fuel routing, the FPR I was using wasn’t properly marked (2 outlets and a return) and I had accidentally plumbed the back carb into the return so I had to run it pig rich to get it idling decent. I can’t see your entire fuel line plumbing, but I see you have the float bowl vents tied into the return line. They normally vent to the filter housing which would be at atmospheric pressure. It might be worth trying venting those to your filters if it has provisions for it or atmosphere, and plumb the FPR return directly to the return hard line on the passenger side.
  9. So my dog caused a nice little hairline fracture of my elbow about a week ago, so body work on hold again until that heals up in about 2 more weeks. I swear this body work stuff takes forever if you can’t commit full days to it regularly. In the meantime I started work on the steering rack, column, and shaft. I ordered a big haul of parts from ZCarDepot and started ripping it apart. It came apart pretty smooth and the grease inside looked pretty good (I feel like 7-8 years ago I may have topped it off) but the steering effort was really high and I had a pretty bad wheel shake above 30 on pretty smooth roads which is why I decided to go all out on restoring it. As a “fix it before it becomes an issue” person I decided to do rack tube end bushings as well as the steering shaft u-joints. 1. The rack tube end bushings are a small cylinder that is pressed into the steering rack at each end to center the rack in the tube, seem to be brass lined steel with a small oil/grease channel. These are not shown anywhere in the steering diagrams I could find in the FSM or searching. Mine did not seem to have any excessive wear but since I found the OEM pieces at $9 each it seemed like a good precaution. They are only one length but the driver and passenger side are different lengths so cutting required. Just need to find a good way to pull these out without scoring the tube too bad and hopefully they will be a solid fit without machining given they are OEM. 2. The damn steering shaft u-joints! Like a few joints on our cars these were made non-replaceable after the Series 1 run, so any 72 on Z will have the 15x38mm u-joint staked in (early Z was 16x40mm and used external clips to retain the cups. Again mine aren’t necessarily too bad, but piece of mind is worth a lot to me. I unfortunately can’t find any 15x40mm u-joints that have internal/external clips, though there are options for staked ones: 15x40mm (can’t be staked if used) https://www.amazon.com/Febest-AS-1540-FEBEST-Universal-Joint/dp/B00HAQIUDQ 15x39mm (could be staked, or a slot cut for a thrust ring in the bore if you have the know how) https://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1343&search=uj15 Ive seen some discussion on the other forum sites about replacing these. Cutting the old u-joint out is a requirement. Since this would probably be something you would only have to do once, for keeping the caps on I was thinking it could be kept simple by using either Loctite retaining compound or just epoxy a stainless washer over the end when done if using the 15x40mm since the cap will sit flush. If you wanted a clean look a press fit plastic end piece could be used it you have access to a 3D printer to make one. I’ll try and get a video out going over what I did soon.
  10. @Gumiho3 I’m not gonna run AC, I used to drive around FL in the summer with black leather interior in my RX8 and never really used it. I don’t even like that my Altima forces AC on when I use the the defroster. I’m sure you could make some mounts that move the AC compressor so that it doesn’t interfere with the steering joint. Plus why would I wanna take power away from the crank… or make it harder to fit a centrifugal supercharger on it in the future…
  11. Worked on the heater core housing the past week. Unfortunately our sandblasting cabinet started to act up mid way through blasting, and the cold and humidity of the garage makes rattle cans come out looking 7/10 stars at best so it’s not the prettiest but it’s hidden. Pressure tested the rebuilt heater core I got for free in exchange for working a local Z. I repaired the heater valve and I used cork gasket for the large door area, camper top sealing foam tape for other areas, and pro tip… a beer coozie and one of my old wetsuits from work cut into strips makes a perfect seals for some of the areas where the pivoting door doesn’t lay flat.
  12. Quick update on the Z and quick video about the VQ37 with some footage of it fired up. https://youtu.be/387XBy1wQ4o
  13. It ain’t pretty but nothing about welding in that area is easy. I did some tacks all around on the underside and will finish up the 2 accessible sides fully from the top, then the other 2 sides will be sealed with epoxy for water tightness. I think that will be sufficient for a weekend cruiser.
  14. Did the fan intake chimney, my cut out rusted one can be seen in the picture below. This area is definitely not a breeze to cut without a really good dremel or a really slim profile cutoff wheel. I ended up making a few modifications to the design, namely shrinking the whole chimney by about a 1/2 inch in each direction to hopefully allow water to flow around it easier. I also think I will also be making the cover that keeps water out able to be unbolted and place a screen mesh or even some non-restrictive HVAC filter on the opening to keep leaves from hitting me in the face when it’s on. But welding it in will need to be done from underneath and I’ll need to get some good seam sealer and paint on the area. I would say that based on how hard the Kia blower motor moves air that anybody else doing this could problem just weld a 4” long piece of 3” diameter pipe in the dead center and not worry about choking anything out. My buddy also suggested 3D printing the chimney and bolting it on with gasket and sealant, maybe if I lived in a drier area I would try that.
  15. My 2 cents from when I installed a l28 (IIRC F54 block, P90 head from a ZX). If funds aren’t an issue now just make the engine track ready now with the compression ignition and triple carbs. Get the adjustable cam gear and tensioner mentioned (I wish I had when I rebuilt) and spend the money to go to an EDIS electronic distributor-less ignition system (the distributors for these engines just really start to have issues now after 40-50 years). Better fuel delivery and ignition timing will make detonation control a breeze even on those higher compression numbers and you should be able to safely push the 10-10.5:1 compression so you don’t have to tear the engine apart again later to get that comp where you want for the track. If funds are a limiting factor, which is kinda my problem at the moment, then what you mentioned in your plan seems like the way to go and just upgrade as you can. It will be a longer process and you’ll certainly want access to another daily anytime you have to put the new parts on.
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