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About Sanchez

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  • Birthday 08/05/1995

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    Saint Louis
  1. Did a little digging into the 370Z factory service manual and found a pin out of the ECU. Using some other information I came across online I think I’ve narrowed it down to 30 pins (and respective wires) necessary to fire up the engine and keep it running right. With this it could make it much easier to do the VQ37 wiring harness ourselves for the DIYers. I’ll try and post up a picture when I get some free time of which pins I believe to be crucial to operation and maybe some of you more experienced with these engines could chime in. My only road block is learning about the ECU rom editing using Osiris/Uprev because I can’t find any videos going over the software, or how to make changes so the engine won’t look for or require signals from the NATS/BCM/IPDM. Hopefully somebody on this forum who has used it before for any VQ engine could shed some light on the situation. My hope and goal beyond building this car for myself is making this swap more accessible to the DIYers so we can get some more of those older Z’s resto-mods on the road.
  2. The way I see it is that a VQ37VHR will cost roughly the price of a donor vehicle and the wiring/ECU modifications from Z-fever. So $2000 for salvage vehicle + $2250 for Z-fever = $4250 to just have the engine/trans running ready to go into the chassis. Add mounting kit, driveshaft, and gasket based on the mileage for another $1500 = $5750 for the engine in the car making the tires spin. You can recoup some of that parting out the donor car. Giving you 306hp and 270tq from an N/a motor with an 8k redline and room to improve that power. From what I see that is the same price as a good aluminum block LSx swap or an RB25 completed swap, and about the same price as just an RB26 before you even put it in the vehicle. Plus once the VQ is in and wired it’s quickly becoming the cheapest to replace.
  3. I am a fan of the VQ37 for keeping the car Nissan and using an engine still from the Z family. Z-Fever made the point that the VQ37 is in so many Nissan cars that it’s starting to become a throw-away engine, that almost every scrapyard has a wall full of them and are trying to get rid of them. I can get a whole engine assembly with 52K miles on it right now for $750 or a whole salvaged g37 for $1200-1700, so his point makes sense to me. Basically once the engine/wiring/everything is set up and swapped, should I ever blow the engine replacing it would cost just as much as sourcing a new LSx motor.
  4. Hey guys, it’s been a while since I posted on here because my Z had been a hot streak of not having any critical. Now that I’m out of college, have a good job, and a new daily driver I finally was able to put my Z up to get prepared for restoration. I have been toying with the idea of a VQ swap, and having spoken with Z-Fever/Fever Racing he made some great points to using the VQ37 as a power plant. He sent me a bunch of info PDFs about doing the swap and the stuff involved and what they offer to make the swap easier. They customize the ECU rom to bypass any unnecessary portions of the harness and modify the engine harness to need a 12V source, ground, and start relay so the engine can run pretty much standalone, and it comes with an Uprev license. I was wondering if anybody had done these things themselves and could offer a bit of insight into making the wiring something that can be done DIY style. I am the type of person who likes to do the work and learn as they do it, and I like to know my car front to back which is why I am interested in trying to wire the thing myself before paying to have it done. Not to mention it would be great if I could get this done for just the price of the Uprev/Osiris software as I have access to an endless supply of wire, wiring tools, and wiring hardware. Thanks in advance for the help
  5. I forgot to specify, I have no mechanical pump cause I have an L28 with P79 head. I have an electric fuel pump at the tank with a splitter/pressure regulator (of unknown origin, but PSI is within 3.5 spec for carbs) and a fuel hose running from each outlet on that to a carb. I'll post photos later when I am done with classes.
  6. Thanks for the outline, it was a bit of a confusing photo. From what Beermanpete is saying I should be able to trace it back to the tank, disconnect it at the tank, and seal it off well. Or is there any benefit to using the fuel return with an electric pump and how would I go about doing that since the previous owner deleted the stock fuel rail and ised fuel hose instead.
  7. I got my car up and running after being down for a few weeks with a bad case of old wire syndrome. This smoothed out a whole lot of electrical issues and all of the systems seem a helluva lot more stable. But in that time I started a new job, and I cannot drive this car at all without saturating all of my clothes with the sweet smell of gasoline (not to mention the girlfriend won't let me drive her anywhere in it cause she can't stand the fuel smell). I have read all of the posts about fixing the fuel/exhaust smell in the cabin, plugging firewall holes, real hatch seals, getting mixture set right (still working on that one), etc... and I am going to tackle those soon. I also found out that the lines from the fuel fill to the tank leak when slightly overfilled and I am correcting that now. I also remembered a bit of advice given to me by a Z-Expert when he worked a bit on my car about a line running from the tank to original mechanical fuel pump. He suggested a way to connect it to the intake manifold using a valve and some other fitting, but I forgot where to run the hose to and what direction the valve needs to face. It is the hard line that my fingers are on. Any information on what to do with this hard line would be greatly appreciated. Is there pressure running through it, should I run it with the rubber cap for the being or could it cause other issues? Thanks for the help fellow Z-enthusiasts!
  8. Thanks for the info. I'm actually currently a student at Eckerd College in St. Pete. Like I said I've rebuilt the L28 currently in my car, so I generally do my own engine work. My main fear is that I may have warped the head and will require a new one or a resurface. So if you have any advice on a trusted machine shop in the area, or a junkyard/pick a part you have had luck at finding Z car parts, it would be greatly appreciated.
  9. Hello Hybridz: I just moved my Z-car down to St. Petersburg, Florida and experienced a disaster the other day during a pop up storm and I was hoping to make some Z owner connections in the Tampa/St. Pete area in case of an emergency. The other day I was in terrible traffic on the highway during a heavy down pour and my car started making a chattering noise and seemed to have lost the ability to accelerate. I noticed that the temp gauge was pegged at 250 so I started to plan an escape route off the highway but I could not see 20 feet in front of me. I probably ended up driving at highway speed for 5 minutes before I could get off the highway and let the car cool down for an hour. Turns out a freeze plug popped out on the highway and the heat from driving started to melt my valve cover gasket and bubble the engine enamel I put on the head during a rebuild. She still starts and seems to run like before this incident but I'm afraid It could have warped the head. I can do a decent amount of work my self if something goes wrong, but I need the community to clue me in on trusted names in this new city. Back in St. Louis I had a guy called the z-man who owned a z-car junkyard I would scavenge for parts. My question for other z-car owners in Tampa is: Where do you go for spare parts? Are there any shops that you would trust to do work on your z-car? Any notable machine shops in the area that you have had work done at? Thanks so much!
  10. I was able to source a part locally so this ad/thread can be closed.
  11. Alright so I thought maybe I just wasn't being aggressive enough with the break in cause I was babying it just to be safe so I got the new fuel pump and took it to an empty stretch of highway and ran it through the gears up to 6500 in the 1st 2nd and 3rd... And Tasaday the engine noise went away, the idle went up and it took on a whole new rev happy life that sounded clean and pretty crisp. The shake went away and the idle increased from about 800 to ~1000. Unfortunately it became a tad too rich and tried dropping the mixture with out my unisyn or vacuum gauge and sorta threw it a bit out of tune but I'm sure once I get the tools from my garage it will all be sorted out. The only bad part about this is that my rebuilt starter now sounds like it's grinding a bit when I crank it or fire it up.
  12. I am in need of a clean 280zx exhaust manifold for the P79 head. A stud broke and I have clamped down that side just to be able to drive it short distances but it may have a small leak causing excessive noise that makes it hard to listen for any unwanted sounds during my engine break-in period. Needs to be leak free and broken stud free. I am open to headers if you can cut a good deal on them as long as they relatively new, come with adapter, and are from MSA's newer batches of headers, since I know a few Z guys in my area who bought them when they first came out and found them to be less than satisfactory (apparently MSA did some work and updated their product). I will pay shipping as well on any purchases.
  13. Thanks I'll work out the fuel in a few days hopefully when parts come in and as for exhaust leak that could be an issue. Just to get it driving I went with a stock manifold and one of the down pipe studs broke so I installed it with the other 2 and clamped down the side that had the leak with shaped sheet metal. When I have the cash I will get headers but with college loans to pay money is a little tight. What I have noticed is that the sound usually seems to disappear at certain RPMs as long as I am cruising at steady RPMs. Edit: I'm just gonna try and get a new manifold from somebody around here since I have no need for a header on an unmodified engine. Just tried drilling out the bolt, everything was going great, and then the extractor bit broke in the damn stud, just my luck. Edit: Another update on the condition of the engine is I forgot to mention that the engine shakes a bit even with the new motor mounts. It did this with the 240z distributor as well just not nearly as bad, which makes me believe a large chunk of the problem lies in the distributor/ignition/timing. It is almost as if a single cylinder isn't firing but all of the cylinders show good compression and all of the plugs are sparking alot better than with the 240z dizzy.
  14. So I finished a rebuild of a 1982 280zx Engine recently and put 4-screw SU carbs on it and a stock exhaust manifold with 2 inch pipe and a turbo exhaust back so I can drive it daily with out waking up the neighbors. This is going to be pretty long so go ahead and ask questions and thanks for reading. Now to my problem/question: Driving now during break-in the engine makes a bothersome sound for daily driving that has not gone away in 200+ miles of driving. It has a very lopey and gurgle/burble exhaust and rev characteristic that sounds like a car with a cam that is way too hot for the application even though my cam is the stock grind. The idle is solid and does not jump around more than 100rpm on occasion and falls back to normal without dropping low after letting off the throttle. I fell like the carbs are well tuned and not the problem but I feel like the issue has something to do with timing and/or various tuning adjustments/gap settings of the car. I cannot for the life of me find a 280zx distributor with a working Vacuum advance so I've given up on trying to find a working VA and come to grips with losing the mpg saving that come from the Vacuum Advance mechanism. After tons of research I found info on using mechanical advance only and ended up buying a distributor on a recently wrecked running car that I pulled off and put on with very little rebuilding. 1st. I put it on and centered the Stator/reluctor inside, checked for basic function, set plug gap to 0.040", checked compression (all cylinders ~160), rechecked my hot valve gap and did some small adjustments to specs. Wired up the E12-80 module (tach still works, lucky me). Also cleaned the ztherapy carbs out and set to baseline for initial start up. 2nd. Then I set initial timing to 10 degrees BTDC and revved the engine to get mechanical advance all in (I messed up resetting the timing pretty badly at first and caused a few massive backfires, but corrected it quickly and nothing seemed damaged). I read 22 degrees of mechanical advance at 3500rpms which seemed higher than I would want for mechanical only advance. 3rd. I bumped initial timing to 15 degrees and got 37 degrees total at 3500rpms again and the car began to drive a better than when I had the pertronix and 240z distributor on the engine but it still seems to have a decent amount of noticeable engine/valvetrain noise and still doesn't have the free revving capability many people claim comes from the 280zx swap and from other Z cars I have driven in. Tuned in the carbs best I could with unisyn for the smoothest idle, the smoothest I got still seemed rougher than it should be, and got 22 inches of mecury at idle from a vacuum gauge at the balance tube. 4th. Checked the distributor advance reference spreadsheet for my model, D6K81-01 which should actually have 17 degrees centrifugal/mechanical advance at 2800rpms. If that is true than I should be able to go to at least 20 degrees initial which I think might be better for smoothing out the engine and driving feel. Should I trust my timing light here? I am new to timing and did tons of research before attempting it so do you think it is possible I may have used my dial on my timing light incorrectly causing the reading to be a bit off? 5th. I have most of the parts from 2 280zx distributors I tore down as well as the 240z distributor so I'm going to try and rebuild a distributor from parts while I use the current one to drive my car daily and continue to finish engine break-in. The new one I build will have no Vacuum advance either cause none of mine are in usable, the 240z vacuum dashpot had a medium fast leak that keeps getting worse over time so it's not reusable either. I also heard that many rebuilt dashpots have the wrong advance setting and can damage the engine if used, plus I'm sure every breaker plate I have has the broken plastic bearing run. I'm asking here on hybridz cause we have no reliable distributor shops in the area so I can't have it recurved by a professional so I'll do it myself and learn from the experience. How do you go about re-curving the mechanical advance yourself? Like where do did you get different springs for the weights and how do you do this slotting thing to lower the total amount of mechanical advance? From what I understand about timing, advance, VA, idle/cruise mixture, and off-idle mixture it seems like I would want about 23 degrees initial and 12 mechanical to when all in. I would like to know how that sounds to you smart ignition guys and here suggestions or examples of your recurves. Additionally I would like to here your thoughts on everything else I have mentioned that you think might be causing the odd driving and revving (e.g. plug gap, exhaust, etc...). Or if you think this is caused by a completely different issue than let me know, cause I have the original 4-speed that I did a mild overhaul on while out, but I have not done any work to differential or the hubs so something could be catching or clunking in there. I'm not very sure of the fuel delivery system (small leak from the Facet fuel pump and weird FPR, and no fuel rail or retunr line, but fuel pressure checked out) so I'm replacing that shortly anyway.
  15. I was a little scared to drive the car too hard with the weather up here in St. Louis being nuts lately and since I was still breaking in my new engine. But I took it out for a few launches and couldn't get the tires to chirp until about 2000 rpm. Checked the tune, did some adjusting to the timing, enriched the mixture some (my father forgot to account for the leaning out caused by the airbox), optimized the plug gaps, put air in the tires, and lastly put another 100 miles on it the last two days. Today it was a whole new beast... The tires chirped around 1400 rpm and the car launched more how I expected it too launch. From what I understand a heavier flywheel makes the car more of an easier shifting ride with less need for clutch modulation, and that heavier flywheels cause a little more parasitic loss through the drivetrain due to more rotational mass. Thanks for all the help, I plan on swapping a fivespeed trans and new rear end in soon so I will keep with this flywheel until then. Last question, would I notice a big difference in driving characteristics after going back to a stock flywheel with the drivetrain swap I'm planning on doing? Should I notice any differences by changing the wheels to 225/45r16 (24.1in) wheels?
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