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About Sanchez

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  • Birthday 08/05/1995

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    Saint Louis

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  1. So the past few days I started back at work and can start making money again to fund this project now that I’m done with “zero cost” part of rebuilding (taking it apart). My plans changed a bit as my body shop is backed up with taking a lot of insurance claims jobs because those pay the best right now with the pandemic. I’m going to be fully removing the suspension and use a homemade tip-jig for the sandblasting procedure. I’m currently get ready to pull the trigger on a 370Z 6-speed transmission, man those things are expensive and almost impossible to find in a junkyard so eBay it is. I’ve been doing a ton of research because, for those of you who are not aware, to use a CD009 trans in an early Z you need to shorten the shifter bracket and the previous maker of this part, Hoke Performance, stopped making them it can be hard to source. Even then Hoke’s bracket would still require cutting the trans tunnel about 1-2” to fit. I stumbled upon a piece by Enjuku Racing that completely removes the u-joint and should hopefully fit the CD009 trans in a Z car with almost no cutting of the trans tunnel! I’m going to order this along with my trans so it would be great if somebody with the Hoke relocation bracket could send measurements of where their shifter sits and I can measure the Enjuku and see how they line up. https://www.enjukuracing.com/products/xcessive-manufacturing-nissan-vq-cd009-shifter-bracket-series-2.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3KCzirTh6QIVEL7ACh0RTQTXEAsYASABEgIVsPD_BwE
  2. I got a pair, PM me if interested
  3. Picture of my dash, original with no cover. Developed it’s first and only crack about 2 years ago. Hopefully I should be able to fill it in with some bumper repair and some texture paint. Interior sound deadening/tar may removed using the dry ice method. I highly recommend doing this with dry ice which I got from my local CeeKay.
  4. @BrettR Changing to a dry sump oil pan for the VQ37 is possible and could make it so you don’t have to cut the crossmember. But the cheapest I’ve seen for a complete setup will set you back $5,500 USD. You can really set the engine where ever you want to make it clear the crossmember, provided you don’t mind reshaping/deleting the hood. @74_5.0L_Z I’m having some trouble accessing getting a good look at your custom crossmember or viewing that PDF, any chance you could re-upload the PDF or post a few more pictures while your engine is out?
  5. With the free time I've had due to being unemployed from this crisis I have had the time to put in some good hours working on my 240Z. I'll start this thread for my plans of my build in the long run: 1. Complete chassis restoration, rust removal, minor chassis strengthening 2. Stock VQ37VHR (using ZFever wiring harness and McKinney engine mounts) 3. CD009 6-speed transmission (using McKinney trans mounts) 4. Complete suspension overhaul with coilovers and TTT or Apex Engineered front and rear pieces (either a R200 or Ford 8.8) 5. Complete re-wire of the rest of the car (simplify the wire harness, Honda wiper and blower motor) The past few weeks have been reserved for completely stripping the car, finding damage and rust, and getting it ready to get sandblasted before going to my body work guy. I decided to avoid doing any sort of write-ups or videos on the chassis stripping because for the most part this is a pretty easy to disassemble car, but if you've got a rusty Z I suggest having a good deal of your favorite beer nearby and be ready to snap at least 25% of the bolts on the outside of the body. Interior removal was pretty smooth and can be done easily with simple tools and buddy to help with the dash and glass. GET A GOOD ORGANIZER BIN AND A TON OF SMALL BAGS TO KEEP TRACK OF BOLTS! One of the Z parts websites sells bolt kits, but having the originals well organized makes it easier if you plan on reusing your bolts and screws. Here is my Z sitting in the garage before starting the work. As you can see I have a pretty basic workstation, but my buddy who owns the garage has the other wall lined with toolboxes and equipment. Got the VQ37VHR sitting on my engine stand there on the left (Only 25k miles, pulled running from a rear end totaled G37, pretty lucky find) Old Engine Removed. At this moment I still have the engine for sale and will probably post it here soon. It's a running L28 with ZTherapy SU carbs connected to a 4-speed trans. Some bad rust on the front main frame rails, both sides. My floor pans and their respective frame rails are also kinda garbage, so I got a new set of floor pans from Zedd Findings and I am about to order the Baddog Frame Rails and rear subframe connector soon. Got the interior pretty much stripped down. Still need to remove glass, headliner, and steering column, then strip and remove the doors Fenders off. Need to find a way to modify that cowl drain, who designed it that way????
  6. Or if you feel like taking a crack at being the first to use the Apex Engineered crossmember in a VQ swapped Z that would be a great thing to test to, if you talk to the guy he may work something out with you, I was told they would lower the price and send me an un-powdercoated one for ~$50 off if I wanted to give it a shot.
  7. Glad to see somebody else also doing a VQ37VHR swap around the same time I am, but you seem pretty far ahead of me since I’m just starting the rust repair/body repair part of mine. if you haven’t checked out Austin Hoke’s webpage with his VQ35 swap I would highly recommend it, he covers cutting the front crossmember in a whole post with photos that is very useful. And ask Doug at ZFever for his whole PDF of the swap procedures. check again on where you placed the McKinney Motorsports mount kit? Because to me it looks like you cut out a bit more of the crossmember than you needed If it was positioned better, so you may try to slide your mounts just a little bit closer to the firewall. I was considering the Apex Engineered crossmember because I thought it might clear, and from speaking to them their piece sits approx 1/2in lower the stock x-member and is made from 1 5/8in diameter tube. My measurements led me to believe that it might work (might need to be notched Still) but since I lost my job at the moment due to the recent crisis I’m not going to take the financial risk Of finding out it doesn’t. Maybe one day if VQ swap become more common they will adjust theirs to work, and it’s not a very difficult piece to replace since our engine won’t mount to it any more. Definitely reinforce that sucker by boxing up all the areas you cut though and start looking into getting another cross member incase yours starts to show signs of failure while your still Safely testing if she’s roadworthy after you do the swap.
  8. Yeah AE control arms looked pretty good to me, I just don’t know why they went bushingless for the actual full suspension, but I guess then it wouldn’t necessarily be a full subframe. One thing that makes pulling the trigger on either a TTT or AE kit is simply the lack of user experience write-ups or videos. I would certainly be up for being the one to do this with one of the kits probably the AE kit, but I lack the knowledge of suspension engineering to feel qualified to make many comments beyond the installation process.
  9. My 240Z has succumbed to dreaded front sway bar cracks and rust along the main engine bay frame rails while I was at college. Now I have the time and money to straighten up the chassis and I was hoping to hear from the community their suggestions on whether these rails can be repaired or whether it would be better to order a set of rails from Zedd Findings since I’m already buying their floor pans. I am aware that these spots can be patched easily but my main concern is that them being open for a long has allowed the entire inside of these frames to start rusting and they will slowly deteriorate if not fully replaced. I will add that I do have access to an excellent body shop that always cuts my dad a good deal when he brings cars in.
  10. That is a good point, if it’s driven light then the suspension doesn’t need to be super beefy and maintain perfect geometry when pushed to the extreme. But I do want the peace of mind that comes from a solid setup that will stand up to the test of time, occasional road trip and the need to floor it on the highway occasionally. As a side note they do offer their control LCA’s as replacement piece for people with stock diffs, and it comes with bushings at the front and rear for soft mounting. I am wondering why they decided to do away with that for the kit when it would probably hold up for most street driven cars and would have likely simplified the design and engineering of the kit. This is what their bushed control arms look like:
  11. I’m glad I’ve heard thoughts from some of the experts around since suspension systems and body/frame design are my weaker areas (electrical and engine mechanics are where my knowledge base lies). I from all the information I’m hearing one of the areas of improvements would be soft mounting in the front where the LCA’s connect to the body. I have heard a lot of input about using this as a race setup, but I would be interested in hearing how the experts here think it would hold up to casual and city/highway driving since that is my intended use for my? I don’t plan on doing any hard cornering, track, or drifting when my Z is on the roads it’s gonna be a weekend cruiser mainly.
  12. Yeah I am definitely not buying a large "bolt-on" kit for my car like these without seeing the instructions that come with them first. I'm fairly certain Apex and TTT are not scammers, they are very new to the market and as a result nobody has done detailed write-ups, videos, or how-to's with these kits yet, and most of the pictures I've found are marketing pictures from their websites with a few amateur photos or videos of them installed. It sucks to think that scammers are here on the HybridZ forums. Thanks for the warning though, sometimes it's easy to get super excited about something new for our cars and make a move on it before taking the time to protect ourselves financially.
  13. I have been looking into the Apex Engineered and Techno Toy Tuning suspensions parts as I start my full restoration and VQ37VHR swap and this thread has been very helpful. I spoke to TTT recently and they informed me that they were developing a Ford 8.8 rear suspension swap that involved a custom diff cover for mounting to their mustache bar, and it would use their new power cradle (https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/z-power-cradle-short-nose-r200r230-and-ford-88) for front mounting and tying together the whole rear suspension for added support effectively combining the mustache bar to the LCA via the diff similar to the Apex rear end, only using more pieces. Both companies look like they make excellent suspension parts for these car and have done the testing and engineering, I think when its all said and done if somebody wants to put a Ford 8.8 in their 240Z for the strength, availability, and aftermarket support, and wants to do it using either of these companies kits they are ultimately going to end up with the mustache bar, LCA, and diff connected in some fashion. I know what has sold me on the Apex kit is that it is roughly half the price of TTT kit which totals ~$4K when you factor in the power cradle add-on for the Ford 8.8 and uses 370Z hubs which is good for my application since I am swapping in a 370Z engine (maybe able to actually get a speedometer signal from the wheel sensor to the ECU now which would simply gauge wiring immensely). For a true-to-240Z resto-mod I could justify spending the money on the TTT kit. I am basing this some conversations with both companies and the limited amount of pictures and install instructions for both of these kits, so please feel free to correct me if I am wrong in my reasoning or understanding here.
  14. Thought I would drop a few pictures and an update here before starting a build thread and informational text/videos for others to reference. I have the engine ready for a clean up, inspected the cylinders which were pristine, and turned it by hand. Got all of the pieces together to send to ZFever for the wiring harness service. I’ll be posting about the adventure in finding the wiring parts soon.
  15. Just picked up a running VQ37VHR from a t-boned 2011 G37 with 25k miles on it, with the EFI/Engine harness (unfortunately two of the connectors got smashed up a bit) so I will probably be starting a thread soon on my build progress. Also pulled the VVeL module and cut the subharness from a different G37 a week ago, and I will be posting about how to correctly do that after I get confirmation from ZFever that I did cut every thing out correctly. If you are in the market for a running L28 with Ztherapy SU carbs and a rebuilt 4-speed keep an eye on the for sale section.
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