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Sanchez

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Sanchez last won the day on August 17

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About Sanchez

  • Rank
    Regular
  • Birthday 08/05/1995

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Saint Louis

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  1. @Zumf20c How’s the engine and trans mounting going? Any pictures or updates about the McKinney mount kit?
  2. Started on the floor pans today, my toe board/kick panels up to the firewall and battery tray on the passenger side also needs new metal so I got to grab some 20ga sheet metal this week and shape that as well.
  3. @DuffyMahoney Thanks for the support! @TUME Yeah I'm not very happy with the quality of the welds now that I can see them, but I did have the work done in High School when I was very low on funds and mostly just needed the car to not rust out from under me. While the welds are not pretty, the shop did an excellent job hiding them and getting the body right with bondo (I know bondo should only be used for minor stuff, not to the degree it got used on my car). And it pretty much stopped the rust in those areas. That is what got me looking at the ZTrix Subtle Z rear fenders. I really like the original look of the Z's without flares and it comes with the bonus of slightly larger tires (to handle that sweet VQ torque) and save me from having to recut and reweld the lower portion of that panel and fill it all in to get the shape right (or spend the crazy amounts of money on a whole replacement rear quarter).
  4. Sandblasting Video Link (Shameless Channel Plug). I’m the one in the shirt that says “Shop Staff” and the horrible farmer’s tan at the end of the video: 240Z Sandblasting (The Cherry Garage) Photo dump as I start body work... I really hate drilling out spot welds... My passenger side rear quarter is dented pretty good and I found where dents were attempted to be pulled out. I’m thinking I may start looking seriously at the Subtle Z fiberglass rear quarters...
  5. QUICK UPDATE: Got the car sandblasted yesterday!!!! The company I went with is local here in St. Louis and did an excellent job using fine crushed glass. Took about 4 hours and there is no noticeable warping to the panels (I did skip getting the hood sandblasted because it is such a large flat panel I think it would have been impossible to avoid warping it). For those of you thinking of getting the car sandblasted and want to get the rear underside without a rotisserie the frame is so light that myself and 3 friends lifted the shell onto and off the trailer, and tilted the rear of the car up in the air and rested it on a frame made 2x6 wood. I was hoping maybe some of you could suggest a relatively good primer to use to keep the car from rusting while I do the body work. Something that I can body fill over before using a a highbuild primer primer before paint? Here are some quick photos, video update coming soon.
  6. @Zumf20c Don’t suppose there is any chance you would be willing to try and get some plans/blueprints drawn up of what you received for us VQ37 swappers to make them ourselves. If they don’t even come painted I find it hard to justify paying $700 dollars and waiting ~1 month to get some pretty basic welded steel.
  7. Sanchez

    VQ37 Swap

    @WailordUseBodySlam last time I talked to them about it was in December 2019. I may message them again and see what’s up with it. I don’t know if they plan on completely reworking the fabrication of the entire rear end swap or if they plan to base it off their current R200/230 swap.
  8. @zTrollop i was wondering if you ever figured out your steering issues?
  9. How long did it take to get those mounts from Speed SoCal. Its a bummer they don't come painted because you definitely don't want these pricey mounts rusting. Their engine mounts look a little small and stiff which would be good for a race car but for a comfortable ride for a street car I was wondering if the stock isolators from VQ37 would work. Do you think you'll stick with their's or try and fit the stock isolators?
  10. Sanchez

    '72 hatch

    My hatch is unfortunately a bit rusty and I am starting repairs on it. I'm in STL also and there is a guy called the Zman in Imperial, MO who is getting rid of his Z parts (he used to have a yard full of them). You should try and get a hold of him, you can find him easily by searching "datsun" or "240Z" in the STL craigslist.
  11. I was just looking over the pictures again and was wondering the same thing as @74_5.0L_Z. It seems like the best way to fit these engine in the car is to set them as far back against the firewall as possible and lower if possible (I've heard some talk that the McKinney mounts come with some shims to adjust engine height, and are slotted for some tilt adjustment). Also noticed that it seems like your steering rack is angled differently than mine sits, it looks like the part where the u-joint connects to the steering rack is pointing up higher than mine looks which could be throwing off your steering (It could also be the angle of your pictures that is making it seem that way). Here is the way the steering is angled in this picture from Silvermine Motors website:
  12. This is a good question and there is almost no info I have found, even from ZFever about how to change the steering linkages with the VQ35/VQ37 swap. For a while I was under the impression the tubular manifolds on the VQ37 would allow the steering to clear when it is mounted correctly but that may not be case. I wish I could help you but I’m just as lost as you when it comes to this area of the swap.
  13. Thank you, but I was more wondering how you are able to get correct tension on your belt. I haven't seen any tension arm brackets for the VQ37 alternator.
  14. So the body shop gave me some less than stellar news, but news I was somewhat expecting to hear. My chassis is saveable but to have somebody else do it will cost me more than I can really afford to spend. It sucks, but I had a feeling deep down that it would possibly be the case. This means that I will need to start really putting in some work to improve my pretty mediocre welding and metal body working skills (I'm a wizard with body fill and fiberglass though cause of my work with boats in college). Anyway, I would appreciate any help and tips and pointers you guys could throw my way about replacing the outer rockers and the main engine bay rails where they meet the radiator core support because those are areas I know I'll struggle. I've seen some pretty good guides about the floor pans and frame rails/front gussets that make me believe that it is something I can do as a novice with the help from some of my friends who have done body work before, but still any advice is much appreciated. It sounds like I shouldn't need any thing more than a good quality MIG welder to do all of the body work on this car.
  15. @budgy Love the progress you have made on your car, your build is part of the inspiration on my VQ37VHR swap. After some looking at my engine I was starting to get a bit confused about how I would run the belt on the VQ37 without power steering or AC (my engine didn't come with an alternator or tensioner pulley). It looks like you have removed all of the pulleys and are running a belt straight from crank pulley to alternator. Would you mind elaborating on what length belt you used to do that? How does the belt sit in relationship to the front crossmember (is it close to rubbing or require any additional cutting)? And how reliable this setup has been in your test fires of the engine?
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