Need Some Advice

[Fuzzydicerule]

Hi guys, Ive got a 72 240. Long story short, my wiring is hacked to ****, so I'm going to take the time to rewire the car and put in an L28ET i got a couple weeks ago in the car.

 

I am planning on running the following

 

Engine;

Stock F54/P90 Long block out of a 1982 280ZXT

T3/T4 Turbo (.50 .63 AR)

Tial 50mm BOV

I will probably be investing in an External Wastegate of some sort. (exhaust housing is slightly different from the stock T3, and i wont be able to use the stock wastegate.)

Everything unneccesary will be removed (All that vacuum crap, emmissions, ETC

Will have a good 2.5 or 3 inch exhaust.

 

ECU;

MSII V3.0 ECU Kit

DIYAT Relay Board

Wiring bundle

DIYAT 36-1 Reluctor

WBO2

Recal. CTS, TPS, and IAT or GM Units

Ford VR Sensor

EDIS 6

Chrysler Coil pack

 

 

I want to note that i haven't purchased anything ECU related as of yet, im mostly trying to get a feel of what i may need.

 

Im planning on buying the basic unassembled MSIIv3.0, Relay board, and basic wiring kit, and a 36-1 reluctor from DIYautotune, as well as a Taurus VR, EDIS 6, and a Chrysler coil pack in order to get the car running. Aside from a Wideband o2 sensor, what other kinds of things will i need to get it working.

 

As Far as the Distributor, What are some options i have of deleting that. I would run the dizzy, but the one on the motor has a broken ear for the cap mount, and is unusable, and new Turbo dizzys are expensive. Does anyone know of a good way to delete it, but continue to have a functioning oil pump? or do i just have to whittle down the housing and deal with it?

 

Im planning on getting a WB02 for an AFR gauge, can i split the signal and use the same O2 sensor for both the gauge and the MS o2 sensor signal or do i need 2 sensors??

 

Sensors,Is it easier to recalibrate the existing Coolant, TPS, and IAT sensors on my L28, or would it be easier to just go ahead and retrofit GM sensors. What sensors off of what cars are popularly used for these cars, or is it just a kind of pick a car and go with it kind of thing.

 

Wiring, I dont have a wiring harness or ECU for the ZXT. Should i find one in the Junkyard when looking for the other bits and usurp it for the connectors, or should i just buy new pigtails?

 

Cheap JY mods. Everything engine related, sans the wastegate, i already have, and im looking to do this as inexpensively as possible, but i would also like to get the most power possible out of this thing. I hear that 240SX throttle bodies are a popular mod for the ET, is that just any 240 TB and do i really need to do anything to get that to work. Any other cheap mods i can look for at the JY?

 

Aside from that, is there anything else i should look into getting to be prepared for this? Im planning on getting the Main MS stuff in the next couple of days and start building it, then i will get the painless wiring harness a few weeks afterwards and start the arduous journey of undoing past owners misdeeds... Looking forward to this project though, mostly because i havent been able to really drive this damn car >_<

 

Thanks guys.

Edited May 19, 2011 by Fuzzydicerule

[cygnusx1]

Just pull out the dizzy and block the hole with a plate. The oil pump still drives. If you want to get fancy you can cut off the top of the dizzy and leave the lower part of the housing in there with it's bearing, to support the top of the dizzy shaft. It works either way. Your list sounds complete. Just buy some Bosch pigtails, and either make your own MS harness, or buy the one from DIYAT. I used the Megaview board in the dash so I can see the O2 readings right from MS. I would think you can split the signal though...not sure on that one.

 

Nissan sensor values are easy to find and input into MS. If you can't find the values, make your own with boiling water, ice water, and room temp. Nissan does not have a TPS in the Z's and ZX's. It's a switch. You need to get a 240SX TPS. You also need to buy an IAT sensor. The Z one is in the AFM which will be abandoned.

 

To keep the cost down, go with the internal wastegate. It works great for moderate to strong builds.

 

 

Think strongly about using shielded wires for anything ignition and fuel pump related. Make a ground rail somewhere in the car with a fat cable to the - battery post and body, and run all your low current grounds to that rail no matter where they come from.

 

I would do the 240SX TB mod only if I were installing an intercooler because of the plumbing size changes needed. The stock turbo discharge pipe is small anyhow. OTOH, you do need to dremel out the mouth of the intake to get benefit from the 240SX TB and it's easier to do before you install the engine. You decide.

 

 

 

 

I am going to be doing a turbo swap this Summer for a customer so I will try to document everything I can.

Edited May 19, 2011 by cygnusx1

[Fuzzydicerule]

Thanks for the tips.

 

Is there anywhere that sells the adapter plates for internal wastegates? like i said, i would use the one off the stock turbo, but the bolt pattern is just slightly different.

 

Im planning on running an intercooler off a mitsubishi starion (it was free...)

 

I am unsure of the use of shielded wiring, can you explain that to me, i get that its a wire that is groundable, but from what i can see its just 2 wires in a shared insulation.

[Cannonball89]

If you use an LC-1 wideband O2 sensor then it has an output to the ECU and an output to the gauge coming off of the module, so now splitting of wires is needed.

 

For sensors it is pretty simple to recalibrate MS for the stock sensors, and the ohm values are documented on this site. It also isn't hard to fit the GM sensors that MS is allready calibrated to onto the engine, just a matter of tapping the manifold and/or thermostat housing for NPT threads. Personally I decided to use the stock cylinder head temperature sensor for my coolant temp sensor, just because I cracked my thermostat housing trying to tap it for NPT threads. For the IAT sensor you probably have to use an aftermarket sensor because I think the stock one is built into the AFM, which you won't be using. I have mine in the #4 intake runner because my intake manifold allready had a large threaded hole there that I think the stock recirculation valve threaded into. But a lot of people put a bung on their intercooler piping.

 

Don't worry about finding the stock harness, you won't be using any of it hardly. DIY sells the DB37 connector that has all of the sensor wires allready connected to it, and it does make the installation simpler. You will still have a lot of custom wiring to do but it's not that bad. You can also either opt to get the relay board or do something custom like I did, here is a link to the thread for my custom relay board, just to give you an idea: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/98694-glove-box-mounting-of-ms-and-fuse-box/

 

Sheilded wire is used to prevent "noise" from interfering with the MS. basically your TACH signal is a very low power signal, and things like fuel pumps, injectors, and coil are very high power. These high current wires can transmit EMI to your TACH signal (or any other sensor for that matter) and make the ECU get a false reading which will cause it to lose sync. The shielded wire helps to prevent this. There are many other steps necsessary to prevent noisy signals though, a quick search will reveal many threads dealing with that matter.

[Fuzzydicerule]

As far as the shielded wire goes, is its ability to ground just the fact that it has two wires runjing through it? I assume the noise cancellation comes from the braided insulation at that point...

[cygnusx1]

Ground the braided insulation only at ONE end, and that braid will "catch" electrical noise and ground it before it gets to the signal wires inside. That's how I understand it.

[Fuzzydicerule]

oooohkay, i guess it would catch it before it can get out if you use it for the high current stuff though...

[cygnusx1]

It don't care which way the noise is going... use it or you WILL be back wondering what you did wrong.

Edited May 21, 2011 by cygnusx1