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rear spindle pin removal


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ok so after todays attempt to remove my rear spindle pin..which i ihad no luck in doing btw :( i have came to a conclusion to press mine out ;although upon searching through the internet i found this and thought it might be helpful for you folks out there who might not have access to a press. In my case i ended up cutting it with a sawzall but when i got finished i noticed i had cut into the inner piece of metal( where the inner joint is) ..now im not totally SOL am I?

 

http://dirtys30.blog...in-removal.html

 

Heres what i mean:

IMG_20110606_193601.jpg

 

IMG_20110606_193534.jpg

IMG_20110606_193515.jpg

Edited by nissun1
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I was in the same situation with a set of mine, and the machine shop couldn't get them out with their 20 ton press. However, an oxy-acetylene torch, an air hammer, a BFH with assorted punches, a drill, and a few hours of swearing finally got them out!

 

Hang in there! This is *the* hardest job most Z owners will face :)

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I've pulled the spindle last week and I've made the same mistake; I've cut a piece of the knuckle :( .

Moreover, I had to use a press and an oxy-acetylene torch to press it out, the heat and the load deformed even more the knuckle.

 

I have 3 options now:

- to file some material to bring everything back even and use some washers to compensate

- to use a lathe to get inserts and weld them instead of washers.

- to get a new knuckle

 

I plan to go with the 1st option since defects are not so severe.

Good luck with your project! ;)

Edited by Lazeum
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I've pulled the spindle last week and I've made the same mistake; I've cut a piece of the knuckle :( .

Moreover, I had to use a press and an oxy-acetylene torch to press it out, the heat and the load deformed even more the knuckle.

 

I have 3 options now:

- to file some material to bring everything back even and use some washers to compensate

- to use a lathe to get inserts and weld them instead of washers.

- to get a new knuckle

 

I plan to go with the 1st option since defects are not so severe.

Good luck with your project! ;)

 

Thanks i feel alot of patience and luck will help..as well as some earplugs for all the cussing ima have to do to get them out.

Dude Option 1 is what im shooting for. Im most likely going to use a chop saw to square the knucles up again then add washers to fill in the gaps. Today is round two of tackling the job and *crosses fingers* once i get em out i will post my success pictures lol

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Ok so i got my hands on a press and man did it make the job a whole lot easier. It took about 15 tons of force and about 3 different bolts to push them out! Here they are after finding out why they were sticking so bad to the housing..u can be the judge :rolleyes:

 

IMG_20110607_125054.jpg

 

IMG_20110607_125101.jpg

check out the pin !!

IMG_20110607_125127.jpg

 

IMG_20110607_125207.jpg

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If you are getting ES LCA bushings you may not have to worry about shimming with washers since their bushings are over-sized. I had to sand my outer LCA bushings to fit the strut. Good luck!

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@Nissun1

Did you just mill some material off?

 

@Leon

You are right it might make the job easier or I would say impossible to fit an extra washer with the joint being so tight.

Poly seems very hard but with high load you can see it being deformed a lot so some pretention might be made with a purpose.

 

I also believe if you mill one side without compensating the material removed, you'll change fore/aft wheel position back to the other one. It might not be a good thing for alignement to proceed this way.

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im goin with poly for sure but also add in a small washer to compensate for the material taken off..it wasnt too much to begin with anyway it was more or less an 1/8th of an inch

 

Which is funny because you have to take off about an 1/8" total from the poly bushings to make them fit, at least in my case! Your bushings may fit perfectly without washers.

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