Jump to content
HybridZ

Blower fan cuts out when using AC


Pilgrim

Recommended Posts

I'm having a problem with my 1983 280ZX Turbo. The blower works fine on vent and heat, but after just a few minutes (sometimes only 2 or 3) with the AC on, the blower fan stops working. (EDIT: With more testing, I learned this happens regardless of whether AC is on - it happens even if just the fan is running!)

 

The AC compressor still runs, but the dashboard blower fan which delivers the cooled air inside the car stops. Turning the AC off doesn't bring the fan back to life; it will only start working again after the car has sat for a few hours.

 

This has happened 4 or 5 times. No fuses have ever blown, including the stealth glass tube fuse that's mounted under the blower motor. After sitting for a few hours, the fan works again. But hop into the car when it's hot and crank up the AC - and the fan runs for a couple of a minutes, then shuts off.

 

If the car sits for an afternoon or overnight, the fan works again.

 

The way this reasons out to me, it seems like running the fan must make some component associated with the blower fan heat up and fail. When it cools off, the fan runs again.

 

Does this diagnosis sound likely to you? If so, what component do you suggest I check? I was thinking of the amplifier mounted under the blower, but it is used all the time - it operates both with and without AC.

Edited by Pilgrim
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had the same problem in my 82 280zx if you check and nothing else works. When the A/C fan was on it would cut off like the way you describe yours; but one day I went into the fuse box and accidently hit the fuse for the A/C fan an it came back on. Everytime it would shut off I would jiggle the fuse and it would start back up. This means that I had a loose/faulty connection at the fuse box for the fan. Hope it helps with your problem.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the manual AC system and a factory service manual...wasn't aware there was a thermal switch near the glove box. Will check manual.

 

Every fuse relating to AC and fan has been removed, tested and reinserted - twice. Not bad fuse contact...but will jiggle things and see if the problem occurs or disappears.

 

Remember that the AC works properly and the compressor engages, it's only the dashboard blower fan that shuts off. I can tell from the load on the motor and the idle speed that the AC compressor is still engaging.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the manual AC system and a factory service manual...wasn't aware there was a thermal switch near the glove box. Will check manual.

 

Every fuse relating to AC and fan has been removed, tested and reinserted - twice. Not bad fuse contact...but will jiggle things and see if the problem occurs or disappears.

 

Remember that the AC works properly and the compressor engages, it's only the dashboard blower fan that shuts off. I can tell from the load on the motor and the idle speed that the AC compressor is still engaging.

 

 

I have the same good working manual AC with an engaging comp but never checked a thermal switch though. It was always real twitchy I finally confirmed it when I removed the fuse block, removed the wires for the AC blower hooked them up strait (w/out fuse) and it ran without anymore gremlins. After a few days of running without a fuse to make sure that was it I throughlt cleaned connections from any corrosion and resoldered the wires back in. Worked fine since.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I checked all wiring diagrams - none show a thermal sensor for the manual AC system...so that's not it. It's also not the AC fuse in the fusebox, because....I need to correct an error. This does NOT happen only when AC is on - it happens regardless of AC. All I have to do is turn the fan up and it will shut off within 5 minutes of run time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Correct the manual doesn't have the thermal sensor. With the updated info I'd say either the fan itself has a bad solder connection/connector or in the harness to the fan as the first suspect. Do you have a fan unit you can swap out? You can also try running the fan by itself and tap around with the handle of a screw driver, etc to see if you can induce the fault.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

The amplifier is an excellent idea, - I have a spare and tried swapping. Still has the problem. Dang.

 

Best candidate according to FSM and tests is the blower relay, a 4-pin relay mounted on the underside of the blower housing next to the amplifier. Need to replace it; called Courtesy Nissan but they had trouble identifying it and no call back yet. I'll have to rattle their cage Tuesday.

Edited by Pilgrim
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
  • 1 month later...

I take it you got it fixed. There is a fuse on the underside of the blower. Be advised, I had a bad rheostat....when you initially clicked it, it started the fan. If yours is going...it could be intermittant. You said you replaced it...perhaps also with the "new" one. Otherwise trace the wire from the switch to the fan.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I take it you got it fixed. There is a fuse on the underside of the blower. Be advised, I had a bad rheostat....when you initially clicked it, it started the fan. If yours is going...it could be intermittant. You said you replaced it...perhaps also with the "new" one. Otherwise trace the wire from the switch to the fan.

 

Unfortunately no, the car is still sitting while I tend to other issues. It has been down for at least three months, which is a bummer.

 

Good call on the fuse...it's one of those hidden "gotchas" which can be hard to find. I know about it and have checked it, but I'll re-check. Right now I have no fan, no AC compressor engagement...nothing. Not the result I was hoping for. I need to spend some time with the wiring diagrams and see where these circuits travel.

 

Before installing the new rheostat and AC switch I tested...the AC switch inside the climate control box tested good for contact closure, and the rheostat tests good as per the test procedure in the shop manual (it's also accessible by removing the center AC vent, unplugging the harness from it, and using a multimeter to check function.)

 

I believe the problem is elsewhere in the wiring, but I'm still stumped as to where. The fact that I have (1) no fan, and (2) no AC compressor engagement indicates to me that there are two aspects to the problem. Initially when I lost fan function, the AC still engaged - but neither system works now.

Edited by Pilgrim
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

My 82 did this same thing, N/A model 5 speed with manual ac. what I found after several weeks of hot summer trouble shooting was that the relay mounted below the fan in front of the glove box, had overheated and the terminals were spread. I thought at first that it was the amplifier also, but tested it out and found it okay. In any case, check the connectors and pins for evidence of overheat and repair according to need. Hope this helps. It really is kind of an insidious problem, intermittent shorts are always fun. I won't even mention my fuel injector troubleshooting and final repair after numerous rounds of trouble shooting everything at least 3 times.

 

regards,

 

mac

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

There's good news...not necessarily a permanent fix, but at least a temporary positive note.

 

Last week I dug into the ZX and checked wiring, and darned if I didn't find a blown fuse. It was the 20A fuse on the bottom right corner of the fusebox; I didn't check the label on the slot, but I replaced the fuse and my blower fan and AC compressor both work!!

 

I drove it around town and on the highway for more than 1/2 hour and everything continued to work.

 

Do I think the problem is solved? Not really. I think I fixed a symptom, but there's a reason the fuse blew - and that reason is the real cause. However, I'll live with this for the time being. I suspect the test will come when the weather warms up, as the original problem occurred when days were hot. It's possible that when I replaced the wiring harness for the blower fan and AC control unit that I blew the fuse - and if so, I'll be a happy guy.

 

But after six months of down time, pulling the dash and replacing wiring and vacuum hoses, I'm damn glad to have it driveable again!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Which switch? Rheostat for the blower? (The AC switch which mounts inside the control unit was replaced with the wiring and it tested OK.)

 

It's not a bad thought - I have replaced it once, a couple of years ago. It tests OK but intermittent problems can be like that.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...