akumazedex Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Is anyone running s13 front hub/spindle swap with s13 coilovers? Im thinking about doing it myself. I know on z31's the sai gets fubr'ed, is this the case on te s130 too? Is there a way to remedy that if it is? I've looked around but haven't really found anything conclusive. I know it can be done but need to know the details. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95443-j-rex-from-team-shogun-s130-with-s13-coil-overs/ try searching first I am trying this on a C110 also. I believe next time I will use S14 gear the LCA's are longer. I personally would recommend not using S13 LCA's they are shorter. some quick notes: For the most simple way get the S13/S14/S15 spindle + brakes (any from the stock S13 NA to the Z32/GTR brakes but remember if the hydraulic surface area is changed on only the front brakes than your balance will be out) S13/S14/S15 coil overs and wheels to clear your brakes. new brake lines/seals/pads would be good take the spacer out of your sway bar bush new ball joints might be good also (nice and cheap in the US) and depending on your setup you may need to slot the top hole in the coil overs. you will need an alignment hope I didn't miss too much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akumazedex Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 Niceee so .. Way better than sectioned struts haha.. Ball joints are s13 aswell right? What about the tie rods? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rwdawg2 Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 What I've been noticing is that you will have to have longer control arms, tie rods, and tc rods. Then you will have to use a maxima ball joint or something comparable to get the angle of the spindle correct. This is all I've been reading. Too many people just try and do it the easy way and realize that they can not get correct camber. Most of them end up with positive camber by the end of it. If anything you want negative so you can have some adjustability there. Why else would you want to upgrade to coilovers if you can not use the full range of them? Just what I've been reading over the last couple of weeks. I've kind of given up on it and am thinking about using some z31 hubs to convert over onto our spindles and weld in some threaded sleeves for the coilovers to thread down into. There's a guy in the vendor forum that builds them for the s30's and am trying to get him to sell just the fronts to the s130 guys. http://www.zccjdm.com/ Check it out and read more into if you would like and decide for yourself which is the better way to go for your application. Thanks, Lindsey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akumazedex Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 Azcarbum? Lol stance an serialnine has the weld on sleeves for stance coilovers. Wouldn't I be able to use aftermarket s13 tc rods and tierods to get the extra length? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PurePontiacKid Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 it's way too much work for something that probably won't work as well. T/C rods will need modifying in the T/C rod mount, you'd also have to modify the control arms for them to bold to as well. the sway bar would probably get fucked up alignment as well S13 tie rods won't work, either. just get either Stance setup or do sectioned struts. if you're worried about brakes just do a pad upgrade, more than enough for any street driven car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akumazedex Posted June 23, 2011 Author Share Posted June 23, 2011 Brakes aren't even an issue right now. Just wanted to know how possible it is to do the swap or if it's even worth it over sectioned struts. I know on z31p there's been a few members that have done it on z31's but I wasn't sure if it's the same on s130 since they are very similar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted June 23, 2011 Share Posted June 23, 2011 weld on sleve's IMO are the easy/ cheap option and I would recomend it if you are just using your car on the street. I mainly did it because I like engineering things and wanted to know how to do it. I looked at the aftermarket S13 LCA's / TC rods and they are not long enough even with full addjustment + like PPK said too much un-necessary work. And if you were going to go down that route than just make you own LCA's The ball joints I used were S130, the S13 ones are appart of the LCA. I also looked at doing something similar to the maxima ball joint solution but I don't see it as being a good way to solve the problem. If you were to extend the LCA's an inch to correct camber remember you are increasing the force applied to the TC rod. IMO just slot the top hole on the strut bracket as showen in the link and get camber tops. You can get more camber than you really need and its is a safe option. Note also that to fit camber tops you ether have to space them down or cut away the strut top mount so the addjusting screws can fit in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 I was thinking about this thread while looking through old pictures and I remembered R30 skylines have a mix of S13 and S130 components so you may be able to use a R30 TC rod and sway bar and S14 LCA's (or maybe R30) here is a pic of a R30 front setup pardon the sillyness its the only photo of an R30 that I have Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ovenfood Posted June 24, 2011 Share Posted June 24, 2011 (edited) double post Edited June 24, 2011 by ovenfood Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akumazedex Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Hahaha nice. Yeah. I thunk for now it's a bit too much r&d for me to do on my daily. I can't have it apart for days at a time. I'll stick with sectioned struts for now since I have an extra set laying around. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 I'm working through it at the moment on my car. Strut tower cut out for camber adjustment One of the problems I have at the moment, with R32 GTR rotors (296x32) the rotor is hitting on the end of the control arm Modified R30 Skyline control arms to fit inside crossmember Custom made ball joints to fit in R30 arms, S14 taper 10mm longer Mockup of S14 5 stud hubs/knuckles with BC Gold coilovers Redrilled holes in the rear to fit coilover tops I tried R31 radius rods and they were too short. At the moment I'm trying to do something similar to this with these S13 adjustable radius rods: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akumazedex Posted June 25, 2011 Author Share Posted June 25, 2011 Have you tried the maxima balljoints? How far off are the tc rods length wise? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
djz Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 I saw a guy that had adapted I think it might have been Maxima ball joints using some plate aluminium, I'd never get away with that here in NZ. The R30 arms are bent up at the end so they put they ball joint in the correct position. The radius rods are adjustable so the length of them is fine, another guy over here took the rod end off the end and just made up a threaded shaft so it mounts like the original S130 rods. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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