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Everything posted by PurePontiacKid

  1. Triple 45 OERs 10:1, cam done a lot of work on the suspension, have probably 7* camber correction in the rear and all that jazz
  2. Hey, still alive lmao Here's the new addition.
  3. Yeah in my other Z Gonna cut that car up tho
  4. ...or lack thereof? lol L series is way more reliable than a V8 any day of the week. I've run my motor out of oil a couple times, daily drive it, drift the piss out of it on weekends, and just beat the shit out of it in general, and it just takes it without giving one single **** about it.
  5. go lower also, action pics. and let's tandem
  6. 15x10 -38 ish should be easily doable on stock struts. I can fit 15x10 -50 with a 195/50-15 and -5* camber on the front before my NCRCA's, now they should fit with -7* camber.
  7. 205/50 on 8.5j is still stretched |: step up the sidewall to 55 series, and then lower the car one inch; will net you the half inch drop you still want, but reduce wheelgap a whole bunch, and make the car look wayyyy better.
  8. I can dig it. Hope you plan on lowering it a bit to get those wheels to look better. Also, would look way better with fewer hypebeast stickers
  9. I cut all the rest of the redundant bushing sleeve **** out just for appearances sake. I think I welded the heim onto the outer end high, and the innner one lower, but I can't remember. common sense dictates which direction to go with the heims lol I am still using my slotted crossmember, with a further lowered mounting point, all the way negative currently. With a slotted-from-stock-position crossmember, I'd be at full negative camber, which is still reasonable at -1.5*.
  10. power rack has a SLIGHTLY quicker ratio (3.2 turns lock to lock vs 3.5) and also allows me to use regular S13/S14/Z33 inner/outer tie rods and rack spacers to gain further steering angle. (I've also go modded knuckles now) I also found a rough pic of what I have done to my rear control arms with the heim ends: Basically what I did was offset the heims to make for less camber. the welding rod is a rough estimate of where the centerline of the bushings used to be.
  11. Just thought I'd come in here again. still having issues. almost seems like an ignition problem now that I've got the other problems sorted (fuel percolation) Have since swapped to a stock fuel rail, set the float levels (per http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ ) changed fuel regulator again (solid 3psi), adjusted needle height, adjusted the mixture nuts, synced the carbs, swapped distributors, checked timing (16* btdc), and I'm sure a few other things I've tried to no avail. (have also checked for getting WOT at the butterflies.) car runs AMAZING at everything less than 4k rpm. It's extremely responsive, idles smooth as hell, gets 20mpg (even beating on it). My only issue is WOT at 5-6k rpm. could it be my needles? traded a friend my stock ones for the set he got with his rebuilt SUs. They're stamped XD (or DX, been a couple weeks since I looked at them.) Does anyone know anything about these needles? I'm trying to find a stock pair locally I can borrow to see what that does. engine bay currently looks like this (except with dual K&N filters, running without them makes no difference):
  12. lol, welcome to like two years ago I think I'm going to take mine off
  13. heims actually over-corrected toe-issue, I've got a bunch of toe-out now, but it is able to be adjusted out. Only problem is my dumb wheels now, adjusting toe affects my fitment, and going to 0-toe puts the tire well against the fender, even with a pretty gnarly fender pull, so I just deal with the toe for now lol I don't have any actual pics of the control arms by themselves before I put them in, but I will get some with everything under the car by this weekend hopefully. I've also done some pretty extensive work to the front suspension, as well. And doing more very soon, just picked up a '83 power rack I'm going to de-power and do some other tricks with.
  14. So, there was a lot of talk about it, but has anyone besides me ever actually attempted large amounts of camber correction on the rear suspension? Just would like to see other people's viewpoints on the subject. I've pulled ~5* camber out. started with -6*, I'm currently at -1.5* (had the car aligned, it's solid) and I can easily got to zero camber or even slightly positive if my wheels could fit. downside is that I have no bushings in my rear suspension whatsoever now lol (heim ends on control arms, aluminum bushings in subframe, and solid diff mount)
  15. ACHIEVEMENT UNLOCKED: -7.2* camber on the front
  16. Yeah, fronts have different spacing. I'm probably not going to use these, they hit the face of my new wheels, and having them re-barreled then having to use spacers is dumb lol I'll probably still **** around with these a bit, see if I can get anything to work. just FYI, with these calipers you will NOT have an e-brake (maybe a hydro one if you install it, but no cables).
  17. Z32 calipers will bolt up to late-ZX control arms, cool. now I just need to see if any rotors will work without needing fabrication.
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