TJs 2+2 Posted August 29, 2011 Share Posted August 29, 2011 I have done a fairly thorough search for this issue with no success. I had to replace a warped head and am having trouble getting the new head timed right. I Assuming a timing chain can go on and show correct timing in only one combination of cam and crank position and have all the timing marks line up right. With everything lined up (cam and crank @ TDC, oil pump lines up right but the rotor points to no. 4 post in the cap and not to no. 1 as I would assume. rotating the distributor does nothing to bring it into line with no. 1 so I guess my question is: is it possible to have all the marks lined up and yet be completely off like this? anyone have any thought? I'm lost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted August 30, 2011 Share Posted August 30, 2011 The cam timing is independent from the distributor timing. The basic timing for the distributor is controlled by the oil pump installation. When the engine is at TDC for the #1 cylinder the top end of the drive slot for the distributor is supposed to be 11:25 and the slot off-set is toward the front of the engine. See the attached page from the service manual. Your oil pump is probably of a tooth or two. Remove the oil pump and re-time it. EM Engine Mechanical Page 32.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJs 2+2 Posted August 30, 2011 Author Share Posted August 30, 2011 Hey thanks pete, that looks about right. I'll double check but I think that is where it's at now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJs 2+2 Posted September 11, 2011 Author Share Posted September 11, 2011 (edited) Ok, got the oil pump/distributor thing figured out yet the thing will still not start. cranks strong but no fire. Again, all the timing marks are on the money as the FSM and Chilton guide say. This car has never ran as long as I've had it (picked it up with a blown head gasket). It has spark on all 6 plugs & fuel. I'm at a loss for what to do. Edited September 11, 2011 by TJs 2+2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted September 11, 2011 Share Posted September 11, 2011 What kinda car and engine are you working with? The FSM has some good troubleshooting procedures and the first few pages of the Engine Fuel section are full of information about how things are supposed to work, especially for the 280Z models. There are several different reasons for no fire, but overall, the ignition system is pretty simple. For EFI, sometimes no fire (spark) is actually no fuel (injection). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJs 2+2 Posted September 11, 2011 Author Share Posted September 11, 2011 (edited) wow can't believe I left that out it's a '76 280z 5-speed, federal emissions. I'll review the trouble shooting sections in the fsm. Chilton's was no help. Edited September 11, 2011 by TJs 2+2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TJs 2+2 Posted September 13, 2011 Author Share Posted September 13, 2011 I checked continuity on the air flow meter at the meter connector and at the ECU harness. Resistance for the potentiometer on terminals 8 & 6 (234) and 9 & 8 (130) was higher than what was stated as standard (180 & 100 ohms respectively). All other tests checked out ok. Is that enough out of spec to cause my problems? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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