tyler031734 Posted February 18, 2012 Share Posted February 18, 2012 (edited) I'll weld on a fuel tanks but I first send it to the local radiator shop to have it flushed. Did the water thing once and got a big WHOOSH out the filler tube when I started welding. Water is not a cleaning agent or a solvent with gasoline. Sounds exciting. Your right as its not a solvent or a cleanser to a tank. Just a displacer of oxygen in gas form. As my rule of thumb I try to keep it as full as possible to avoid any WHOOSHING. Edited February 18, 2012 by tyler031734 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2eighTZ4me Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 Resurrecting this thread - I have a 78 that is going to be close to 400HP. Regardless of whether the tank to pump line is large enough or not - I want to go larger. I was thinking about a fuel cell type bulkhead fitting in the tank with a fuel cell style pickup hose (I have this setup on my racecar), such that I just drill a hole in the tank with a Unibit, and then drop in the pickup hose and bulkhead - but then I got to thinking - how am I going to tighten the back side of the bulkhead fitting..... SO - I'm thinking about tapping the drain plug on the bottom of the tank and installing a NPT filtting and then go with Aeroquip fittings to a -8 AN line. I know that most of the trash in the tank would flow to (and through) this spot, but the tank has been cleaned and sealed and I'm running an Aeromotive canister filter between the tank and the pump. I know the stock pickup goes all the way across the tank and picks up on the drivers side, but would there be any issues using the drain plug on the passenger side? Looking for options/ideas here. The tank has not had gas in it since it's been sealed, so welding is not a problem either. I just want a -8 line coming from the tank to the pump. What's the best / easiest way to do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted May 23, 2012 Share Posted May 23, 2012 If you place it near the fuel gauge sender you should be able to reach the nut through the opening. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
2eighTZ4me Posted May 29, 2012 Share Posted May 29, 2012 Was able to drill out the tank drain plug and tap it with a 3/8" NPT tap. Magnet on a stick works wonders for trapping metal shavings as you work. Drilled from the bottom, while my buddy fished for flakes with the magnet through the sending unit hole. He had an old style Aeroquip fitting that was a 90 degree with a -8AN on one side and a 3/8" NPT on the other - a swivel fitting to boot. Put some teflon sealant on and she's good to go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrcbonk Posted June 6, 2012 Share Posted June 6, 2012 John and Tony, I am curious what you think about the method recommneded in this link http://www.continentalcarbonic.com/dryice/weld-tanks-with-dry-ice.php for evacuating famable gas vapors from a tank. The author suggests dry ice pellets (CO2) will "sublimate" into CO2 gas dissplacing oxygen from of the tank. Basically it sounds like the same concept at using exhaust gases like Tony was saying. I simply like the idea of being able to monitor the progress of the pellets. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.