wrcbonk

Hey, I have not checked the forum in a while. Just now seeing your post. Did you get your RB started? Bill

Yes, I plumbed the stock fuel return boss from the tank back to the canister using a inline hose adapter from Autozone. Its a pretty even swap as long as the big vent line on the back side of the tank is functioning.

I am not sure how 5thgen hooked into the stock tank. I will let you know what I did and it has been working well for several years. The line on top of the tank (3/8ths) is a vent line that goes to the canister. I disconnected that vent line from the canister and used it as the return inlet for my fuel delivery system. I did that because the factory return inlet on the tank is only 1/4 inch, if that. An important note, if you use that 3/8th vent as a fuel return you must make sure the other larger vent line on the other side of the top of the tank is venting properly and that the hose is not crimped. I used the stock outlet (on the tank - 5/16ths) to supply my clicker pump that supplies my surge tank. If you need photos let me know.

Beautiful engine bay, looking forward to updates.

As Neverdone and Seattlejester indicated there are pros and cons to each setup. I went with an external system. It has been working without issue for 4+ years in my RB25DET/S30. There is enough room back there to mount everything and I used the existing factory wiring (hot Green wire and Black chassis ground). Both the low pressure supply clicker style pump and the Walbro EFI pump work great and don't get hot. I have never had the fuel cut in a corner (street use only). The Walbro fuel pump whines under normal operating conditions. My understanding is that the Bosch is more expensive and quieter, spend the money. I am using the small BC Broncos swirl pot which doubles as a filter. Internal pumps are industry standard because the fuel cools the pump, but you must modify your tank. No problem if you know how to modify a thin steel tank, go for it (and many people on this site have those skills), but imagining you will find someone or a shop to modify your fuel tank maybe wishful thinking. Regardless you must have a properly sized return line to keep everything in balance. I replaced the 1/4-inch line with a 5/16ths and used the upper 3/8ths vent port on the tank to return the fuel. TonyD points out you can use the fuel vent line (5/16ths or 3/8ths) as your return that runs from the from the back near the tank to the engine bay, as long as you are willing to reconfigure your fuel vapor system after that.

Ok, I will fall for this, how about pm Pat1...

Read the Amazon reviews for more information on how to install the Rare Parts inner tie rods. https://www.amazon.com/Rare-Parts-RP26575-Tie-Rod/dp/B000CK8XTS

I had the same concerns. I traded a few emails with Tony D and came up with the following. I kept 13 plumbed from the tank to the two way valve in the engine bay. The blow part of the valve (the end where excess fuel vapors are expelled from the tank) is plumbed to my intake. The Suck end of the valve is plumbed to a small air filter (a low pressure fuel filter I had laying around, whatever it does the job) ensuring no particulates get into my fuel system. In the past I had issues with fuel tank vapor pressure forcing fuel out my filler causing havoc. I have had no issues with the present plumbing and I live in HOT Sacramento. Bonk 2 cents

Not sure what kinds of boost level you are running with the stock ECU. I have hit Fuel Cut several times running the stock ECU with too much boost pressure ~13 lbs or more). It's Nissan's way of saving the engine. I can't afford the engine management computer I want at the moment so I run modest boost pressure, ~ 9lbs, and use Royal Purple Octane Booster if I want to rev it out. The stock ECU timing table is set for 97 octane, it pulls timing and dumps fuel when the knocks start coming from fuel starvation or inadequate octane. my 2 cents

KnuckleDuster, You find the best stuff, that angled shifter would save me a lot of headache, modify my stock unit. Didn't see it in the Nismo shop online. Do you have a part number? Thanks Bonk

If your engine comes with a harness in good shape making the connections is straight forward. It will save you a big chunk of change. Remember you are only talking about the engine harness, not the whole car. You are mainly just giving the harness power and ground for ignition and fuel. The key is to go one circuit at a time and use quality electrical supplies (solder, heat shrink, good wire, good relays (Bosch)). The only reason I bought a harness from WS was because the harness that came with the engine was trashed and I made it worse being a dumbas@. 2 cents

Came back around to this thread after losing touch. The sterileness of your engine bay is amazing, especially the electrical. Look forward to more updates. Bill

I was admiring your glovebox gauge holder. Do you remember where you got it? Thanks

That SS strap is very nice, cool fuel delivery setup.

This is of interest to me because I was planning to buy the Haltech Platinum Pro ECU 55001 for my Series 1 R33. Is the 550001 the model you have? Do you have the stock ecu? You could try to use the stock computer to get the car running. I was able to start my engine first crank using the stock ECU (that is after we fixed all the fuel leaks that started as soon as I charged the pump). Have you emailed Haltech yet? I emailed them in the past and It took a few days, but they got back to me with good information. Will be watching your progress. Bill

Thanks guys, I will look into testing my coolant temp sensor. Doing some other research I found that another benefit of EMS is adjustment of spark dwell, which can be optimized for the LS coils.

After reading the thread Coil Suggestions I have some follow up questions for the RB group, but didn’t want to hijack Blob1620’s thread. I have a very stock Series 1 rb25det swap in my s30: stock ecu, STOCK COILS, throttle body, no downpipe, 2.5-inch exhaust, freddy plenum, the intercooler is probably 50% bigger than stock, stock fuel rail, injectors, and FPR. I am currently running the boost at the stock max of 7-8 psi through a manual controller and I have a wideband. Naturally, my engine stubbles from @4500 to 6000 where AFRs plummet to 10 and the engine runs roughly. Common wisdom (Hybridz and SAU) states the ecu is retarding timing and adding fuel to preserve the engine from knock as US fuel is lower in octane. This is not a new story to the group. There are numerous changes that can be made to add power and I intend to start making those changes, but my first priority is to smooth out my rev band. I am more interested in smooth running than power at the moment. My question is this. Should my first step be to obtain a programmable ems allowing me to tune for US fuels or is replacing the coils more important? Put another way, is the rough running more a function of poor ignition performance or the fact that the fuel and timing maps are locked and meant for higher octane fuel? Thanks Bill

Cool project, a true hybrid, can't wait for more updates and eventual tuning.

As Mtnickel said check the level sender connections at the tank, they are poorly designed connectors and notorious for slipping off. Make sure the ends are free of grit with contact cleaner.

I am sure you already have read this post. This is the only one I have come across on this site covering the RB26 Fuel control module. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/67475-gtr-in-tank-pump-mounted-in-260z-baffled-tank-fitted-to-240z-how-to-pics/ The author may be able to answer further questions. I use an external low pressure "clicker" pump to feed a surge tank. A high pressure pump draws from the surge. The pumps and surge tank are located in the back near the tank. I use the stock pickup, but not the return. I use the 3/8ths vent line on top of the tank for the return. I assume you have already come up with a way to have the right size return line. I used the thick green factory electric pump wire that runs from the tank area to the dash area. Nissan spec'd a nice thick 10 or 12 gage wire for the hot, haven't had any issues. I am using Walbro inline pump and its been a workhorse. My stock electrical and RB25 electrical play together more than they should. My fuel pump oscillates when I am stopped and my turn signal is on:( Bill

Blog, Sounds like its up and running well. My 2nd gear synchro crunched bad when I first got the motor/trans. I mixed a quart of GM synchromess in with the MT 90 and that helped. Bill

Blob, My temp level needle has more swing than your images are showing while I am sure our engines are cycling through similar temps. I am using the BMW dual fan thermostatic switch to control my cooling fans. It turns the high fan off around 200 and the low fan around 180. When you have the time you might want to try threading in the other level sensor (if you have it) to see if it will give you more resolution. The important part is that your fans are coming on when they should be and cooling the motor. Are you able to monitor temp through the harness, via Nissan Consult or a stand alone? You can use that to ensure your fans turn on and off when advertised. I would recommend checking to make sure that the temp level sensor will indicate when temps go too high. You want to know if your fans take a dump and you are running hot. If you dare, unplug your fans and run your engine until you see the needle go up towards the right, then just plug the fans back in or turn the car off. Hope you can drive her soon, I am stuck in pinion angle hell. Bill

I have a series 1 rb, I used this information from wiring thread, Water temp gauge - Use S13 or R32 Skyline sensor Part No 25080-89903 if you have a motor from an R32 then it already has the correct sensor. Different part number than in your first post. I screwed the sensor into the head with some liquid gasket and then plugged the factory temp gauge sensing wire into the sensor.

I did find this, but its red and 1/2" NPT... http://www.siliconeintakes.com/holset-turbocharger/-p-500.html

I use a similar reduced tee fitting for the porsche style bypass valve on my rb25det. I bought it at www.siliconeintakes.com, http://www.siliconeintakes.com/bov/t-pipe-p-458.html, they have the all silicone models as well. Hopefully they have a size that works for you. Bill