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Powering my new TIG: Generator?


thehelix112

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Guys,

 

I've gotten myself into a bit of a pickle with purchasing a new TIG. It requires 220V input, and there are difficulties in wiring my house for 220V (legally, safely, cheaply etc).

 

I am contemplating getting one of these: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200360137_200360137 or similar to run the tig. As an additional benefit I could take it to the track to power a little air compressor/charge the laptop/etc if required.

 

I am a doofus when it comes to all things electrical. The specs on my welder: http://www.lincolnelectric.com/assets/en_US/Products/K2535-2/e337.pdf indicate around 40A draw at 100% DC. Judging by the looks of that I think it'd pull around 40A at 100% DC. I don't understand how duty cycle relates to the dialed in output amperage though to be honest. The generator above has a rated output of 20A @ 240V. I dunno whether that means I'd be limited to a really low amperage on the tig, or low duty cycle or both?

 

Anyone done something similar?

 

Dave

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bloz up,

 

Thanks for the response, that does make sense with the DC output. What really interests me though is if I'm using a generator that is spec'd at 20A max, what will my limitation be? Will I be limited to duty cycle, or amperage? I'm assuming amperage, but I'd love to hear from someone with a better understanding of the fundamental concepts than I have. I'm also interested in a guestimation of what 20A draw through the lincoln tig would max out at. Is it as simple as half? Ie, will it limit me to ~115A of the 230A claimed range? Also, what does that translate to in real world terms as in thickness of Al and steel?

 

Thanks,

 

Dave

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You can't have a 220 line put it for under 1k? Even if you had it put right next to the fuse box and bought/made a big ass extension cord to go to the welder? What about the stove/washer/dryer, are they 220?

 

I'm going to guess and say you wouldn't be limited to half current output, but damn close. That generator is going to hate life being run that hard.

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You will not be able to use the welder at all with that unit. Inrush current will very likely lock the engine up on arc strike.

 

You want at least a LITTLE overhead, and make sure you look at the momentary current output as well.

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You can't have a 220 line put it for under 1k? Even if you had it put right next to the fuse box and bought/made a big ass extension cord to go to the welder? What about the stove/washer/dryer, are they 220?

 

That's what I did. In my garage my fuse box lies, and I just added it to the closest stud. Ran the wire behind it and in to an empty hole in the fuse box. Tapped a 50A breaker in to each phase of the power, and done. I also kept it at the same height the other plugs were at. Wire gauge is a step up the required capacity. Nothing really wrong with it but I doubt it meets all the codes.

 

Total cost: $30

Edited by BLOZ UP
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