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building new electrical system, again...


dippowit-z-

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Hello out there, I have decided to ditch the stock electrical system in my 240. I am in the process of building the car around my REBELLO 3.2 FI Turbo. I was having trouble with the old system when I took it off the road for the rebuild.

I did this to my 510 long ago when I was a youngster. I used a fuse panel from the auto parts store and it seemed to work good. The only problem that I had with the system was that I did not ground it sufficiently. After taking a friends advise (A. Briltz), I added grounding points to the unibody and enlarged some of the ground wires. After doing this, I had not one problem for the time that I owned the car.

Another thing that I did was wiring the headlights with no relay. I am not sure how they worked, but they did. With no problems.

 

This time around, I will be purchasing all new led light sockets and headlamps. Along with a new voltage reg and starter from Nissan, and new autometer gauges. These components will be the hub for me to wire the car.

 

The main question that I am looking for an answer to is will the new updated fuse box from motorsport auto be sufficient for this system. I purchased it years ago to help with overheating fuses in the stock fuse box. I did the trick then and I would like to use it.

 

The second question that I have is should I be picky about the wiring that I use. Is the run of mill auto electrical wire from the parts house acceptable or should I use a wire with a higher grade copper?

 

 

Thanks for any input....

 

 

I am open to any suggestions or links to suppliers for electrical parts.

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Don't be so hasty to throw out the stock electrical system. Most of it may good and what it needs is to beef up its weak points. The headlight switches on the steering stalk are subjected to heavy current and go bad after a period of time. Best to have them refurbished and install relays that take the HEAVY current instead of the switches. The other weakness I have discovered on my 240Z us in-line splices that have corroded. With appropriate small changes can restore the stock wiring to good condition.

 

If there are any further questions or comments, please do not hesitate to ask.

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Not garbage, for sale!! (I am not trying to sell it now on this forum)

 

I have removed the entire system from the car. I will not be using it for anything but a template.

I think that the lighting system is the most difficult part of the rewiring. The charging system is only 5 wires or so and easy to duplicate. My steering column will not have blinkers, starter key, light switch etc. I plan to operate the car with a tasteful line up of toggles. With the exception of blinkers, this can be done. I even had the blinkers on a toggle on my 510. I also had 50 toggle switches on the dash. I would like to reduce that amount to 5 or so.

 

Since the car never leaves my sight, there is no need for a security system like a key or steering wheel lock.

 

I will use the light switch from my 510 for my z since it can be mounted on the dash.

 

Thanks for the reply

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  • 2 weeks later...

Not garbage, for sale!! (I am not trying to sell it now on this forum)

 

I have removed the entire system from the car. I will not be using it for anything but a template.

I think that the lighting system is the most difficult part of the rewiring. The charging system is only 5 wires or so and easy to duplicate. My steering column will not have blinkers, starter key, light switch etc. I plan to operate the car with a tasteful line up of toggles. With the exception of blinkers, this can be done. I even had the blinkers on a toggle on my 510. I also had 50 toggle switches on the dash. I would like to reduce that amount to 5 or so.

 

Since the car never leaves my sight, there is no need for a security system like a key or steering wheel lock.

 

I will use the light switch from my 510 for my z since it can be mounted on the dash.

 

Thanks for the reply

 

 

So Dave is building you his 2nd 3.2 liter turbo huh ;) Brian and Mark re did my entire electrical system and used the motor sport fuse box. We elimated all wiring that was not needed. Took some time for Mark to do it but very clean and nice. I added some HID head lights onto the current system that motorsports sells as well with no electrical porblems.

 

J

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Hello out there, I have decided to ditch the stock electrical system in my 240. I am in the process of building the car around my REBELLO 3.2 FI Turbo. I was having trouble with the old system when I took it off the road for the rebuild.

I did this to my 510 long ago when I was a youngster. I used a fuse panel from the auto parts store and it seemed to work good. The only problem that I had with the system was that I did not ground it sufficiently. After taking a friends advise (A. Briltz), I added grounding points to the unibody and enlarged some of the ground wires. After doing this, I had not one problem for the time that I owned the car.

Another thing that I did was wiring the headlights with no relay. I am not sure how they worked, but they did. With no problems.

 

This time around, I will be purchasing all new led light sockets and headlamps. Along with a new voltage reg and starter from Nissan, and new autometer gauges. These components will be the hub for me to wire the car.

 

The main question that I am looking for an answer to is will the new updated fuse box from motorsport auto be sufficient for this system. I purchased it years ago to help with overheating fuses in the stock fuse box. I did the trick then and I would like to use it.

 

The second question that I have is should I be picky about the wiring that I use. Is the run of mill auto electrical wire from the parts house acceptable or should I use a wire with a higher grade copper?

 

 

Thanks for any input....

 

 

I am open to any suggestions or links to suppliers for electrical parts.

 

The MSA fuse box is a very nice piece of hardware. Should work well with a rewired system.

 

Be careful with cheap wire. Some of them are not the proper gauge. Look for wire that actually says AWG or J1128 on the package.

 

If you are going through all the trouble to rewire the car then why not use the good stuff?

Edited by rossman
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