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Everything posted by rossman

  1. Yessir! And the reason I kept my stock fan and shroud. In the win tunnel testing thread they determined that only a small opening in the front is actually needed to keep the engine cool and avoid front-end lift.
  2. You are correct. The CD009 has a 3.78 first gear vs. 3.21 for the RS5R30A. I have a 3.7 diff which is the same as the z32. For me, the gearing is good, no real complaints. Regarding weight, yah, it's heavy, weighing in at around 150 lbs (2x stock 4spd) but it fit in the tunnel of my 240z with no mods required - at least that I recall, and I'm reusing the existing transmission mounts.
  3. It's a new 1998+ RS5R30A z32 gearbox. The ones with improved synchros. The one I have installed now is Japanese export, supposedly with less than 30K miles but it's been crunching 1-2 and 4-5 gears since I got it. I figured I'd grab an new one before they're gone. Going with the CD009 would cost more than this one, plus I don't really feel the need for another gear.
  4. I decided to bite the bullet and purchase a new gearbox for the car. It's only money, right?
  5. Thanks @AydinZ71! From one novice welder to another, I truly appreciate the you taking the time to share your experience.
  6. Yes it's 3d printed out of PLA on my new Anycubic Chiron printer. I want to print the final version out of ABS but I'll need to build an enclosure for it first and fine tune the printer for abs. I'm new to printing on inexpensive printers which need lots of setup and fiddling with the settings to dial them in. I'm spoiled at work by Stratasys printers that just work right out of the box.
  7. Here is a little preview of something I've been working on in my spare time. It's still in work. The geometry is close but the mounting needs to be figured out. It's just sitting there in these pictures so the alignment is off.
  8. Another old school option is cavity wax. It seals out moisture and never hardens so it won't crack and it constantly reflows into joints and seams.
  9. I thought the exact same thing but it's clear that he doesn't call himself @MetalMagoo for nothing.
  10. Don't forget it will cost another ~£400 to add the cam timing components. There are online CR calculators. You could also go custom flat-tops to get the CR where you want it.
  11. Get a Kameari Engine Works (KEW) timing chain setup (tensioner and adjustable cam sprocket) and you can avoid shimming the cam towers if you want to shave the head. There are several HZ threads on the subject. Oh and get the books that grannyknot recommended
  12. Gotcha, also budget is a factor. If you have $2k to spare I would consider at Garret g25 series. Garrett has guidelines for selecting a turbo for your engine. For my ported and high lift cam 3l L6. Turns out that the g25-650 is a good match. I currently run a first gen gt35. It works ok, boost hits around 3.5k but only because I'm running a .64 a/r turbine. The small a/r chokes the engine at about 6k where torque falls off.
  13. Clunking can be caused by many different, seemingly unrelated issues. Mine was clunking and it was driving me bat shit crazy. Turned out to be a loose right front lca pivot bolt. Tightened it up and BAM, problem solved.
  14. "Better" depends on what you want. What do you want the replacement turbo to do. Help the engine develop more power? Less lag? Describe your setup too so we can help you. Is it a stock engine or is it heavily modified 3.2, fully race ported head and a high lift cam?
  15. Thanks grannyknot! I'll have to try that out. Progress has been slow the last few weeks. I got bogged down trying to decide how to repair the right curved section behind the tail light fascia where the top of the quarter panel and hatch come together. I was debating custom sheet metal vs. welding in the existing pieces I had on hand. I went with the existing pieces and I think it turned out pretty good. luckily it's a place that will be hidden for the most part so nobody but me will know it's there if it looks like crap after painting. This area was pieced together from 3 different se
  16. Yah but socket head bolts looks so cool! 😄 I used to work for an engineering firm who did not typically allow high strength (a.k.a. brittle) socket head bolts in structural applications. They had encounters issues with the heads twisting off during torqueing. Its nice to see someone finally is mass-producing a rear end sway that has good, strong supports for the diff. I agree with comments regarding the use of thick hardened washers. Looking good!
  17. It's good to know that I'm not alone, suffering thru this job! Actually, I kind of like doing it though. It's almost like I enjoy working on it and talking about working on it more than driving it. I never thought about it too much but along the lines of quick, hot spot welds, I tend use .030 MIG wire instead of the thinner stuff. It seems almost counter-intuitive to use the thicker wire for such thin metal - but it works for me.
  18. It's been a nasty cold day, so I spent this afternoon working on the car. I made a little progress. The center panel is tacked in. I had almost forgotten how difficult it is to weld on this old car. The metal is like ~22 gauge. The 280z replacement panel is slightly thicker ~20 gauge. Several of those spot welds blew right thru the metal. I had to relearn the technique I previously used on the floorboards a few years ago when I replaced them - angle the MIG gun and pull back to modulate the heat when needed. I fired up my trusty MIG welder for the fir
  19. Nice! I like the red lighting. Did it come standard like that? I have the chrome version but it looks out of place in the interior so I never installed it.
  20. They ALL have hidden rust. It's just the extent of the rust that is the question. The only other spot that I can see from the outside is also on the left quarter panel where they rolled the lip - at the very top of the arch. Hopefully it's minor but I'm not holding my breath on that one! I have done some snooping around and found evidence of filler on the right dogleg behind the door. I don't see rust there from the outside but I'm sure there is at least some surface rust. The whole reason I have been putting off doing this body work is because I just enjoy driving it more than anything. B
  21. Thanks for the kind words but I'm just implementing what I have learned over the years. This is what I got so I'm going to work with. It will never be a perfect concours car. I knew that when I purchased it back in 2008 for $4k as a running/driving all original 240z. There are more body issues - so there is more to come after this repair. I'm already planning how to undo and fix the damage around the quarter panel and tail light. The current plan is to hand-form a piece of sheet metal and butt-weld it in. I'll take pictures as I go...
  22. I'm pretty sure the stock compressor fittings are non-standard too - at least with readily available hardware here in the US.
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