rossman

The mustache bar should go on the aft side of the suspension uprights with the bushings facing forward...at least that is how it is on my setup with r200, 280z uprights, ttt mustache bar.

@Dat73z Aaah, you are correct!! I went back and looked at my calcs and realized that I remembered incorrectly, it's been a couple of years... It is in fact the G30-660 that I was looking at. I feel better too that ATP agreed with my independent assessment :).

I'm looking forward to your feedback on the performance of the G series turbo. I am considering exact same one for my setup [edit: actually it is the G30-660 that I'm considering]. Looking at the compressor map it looks to be a great turbo for a decent flowing 3 liter L6.

Nice, glad to see you're at it.

I'm running the ttt mustache bar too. My setup didn't need the spacer nor did I have to remove the studs and use bolts. It all lined up well as best as I can tell. My setup is a z31t long nose r200/diff cover, z31t cv half shafts, rt mount, and ttt mustache bar.

My guess is that you either fried the afm or ecu. There is a step by step diagnostics in the FSM. I would walk through that process.

There are similar marks on my 3.0 rebello turbo after only a few thousand street miles. Weird. I'm no engine expert but I have read that it can be caused by the pistons getting too hot possibly due to knock/detonation, expanding excessively, and rubbing on the cylinder bores.

Glad to hear you're still at it and looking forward to updates!

Actually, I think I got confused with the diff mount that I used. I did a bit of searching and I believe it is a GM transmission mount like this one: https://teamenergysuspension.com/product/energy-suspension-3-1108r-transmission-mount/. Dimensions of the mount can be found with a quick Google search.

I would replace that stock transmission mount with a solid poly mount. The mount I'm using is from some sort of Jeep...I believe. I've slept a few times since then :D. All I had to do was slot the two mounting holes to make it fit the transmission (z32). I wouldn't sweat those marks on the clutch and PP.

I meant to reply earlier but yah, I think you put too much grease in there. There is a diagram in Haynes and probably the FSM showing how much grease to put in there.

Nice! My son got one of those for his l6 build. It's definitely a nice manifold. Are you simply drilling a hole in the manifold flange or slotting it so that you can pull the manifold without opening the coolant system? I would avoid cutting all the way thru the manifold flange. I did that on mine and it immediately bowed out of plane due to the internal stresses from all the welding. I managed to bold it on as-is without straightening/stress relieving it but it's not ideal.

I would think that you would be good with those nuts, from a secondary back-out prevention perspective, but they may rust eventually after the copper burns off. It's best to know the materials so you can torque them properly. If you go with Inconel, you're going to need high strength nuts so you can get the torque high enough to stretch the stud and preload the joint.

If I had to guess, the copper nuts probably turned soft during high temps, lowering bolt preload leading to back-out. You might want to consider high temp stainless locknuts - the type that are deformed. Also, torque them to at 60 - 80% of the stud yield strength as a primary means of back-out prevention. Recommend lubricating them prior to installation to prevent galling, especially if you have stainless-on-stainless.

Gotcha...I didn't realize these even existed now. Upon a recommendation by TonyD I bonded a MSA performance gasket (I think - its light gray in color, not sure what it's made of) to my valve cover with weather strip adhesive and apply anti-seize to the head size to keep it from sticking. It's been working well for ~10 years.