Fuzzydicerule Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 (edited) First off, My setup Engine: L28ET F51/P90 long block Stock rotating assembly Stock Valve train and cam Shaved intake w/ KA24 Throttle body 2.5 inch flange-3 inch Turbo back Exhaust, flex pipe and single Moroso Spiral flow Fuel: Supra 440cc Low Impedance Injectors pallnet 11mm Fuel rail Walboro 255lph Fuel pump boost reference FPR Turbo: T3/T4 hybrid Isuzu NPR FMIC, full set of Hard pipes 14PSI Internal Wastegate Tial 50mm BOV ECU: MSII V3.0 Relay board GM IAT and CLT sensors, KA24 TPS Innovate LC-1 Wideband O2 Sensor EDIS-6, Chrysler coil pack DIYAT 36-1 Trigger wheel I think thats everything, but im probably forgetting something Now for the problems 1: No matter what i change my timing setting to, it reads at a steady 7-9 degrees advanced. Im guessing that my EDIS is stuck in limp mode. I currently do NOT have the Saw filter installed. could this be the cause of this? If not, are there any other possible causes? I have the PIP and SAW signals wired to the equivalents of pin 24? and pin 36? on the relay board (The ones listed G5 and TACH on the relay board) 2: in the Advanced Ignition settings. My trigger wheel setting keeps defaulting to 0 (no trigger wheel). i have tried setting it to 36 multiple times but it just defaults to 0. obviously the fact that its running means that this does not matter, but i do want to make sure. 3: should i have my basic ignition setting set to EDIS, or EDIS Multispark. i believe i currently have it set to EDIS multispark and "going low(normal) and it seems to work a bit better, but i was under the impression that EDIS is supposed to be multispark. i have the "skip pulses" set to 2, the base on the tune was 3, What is the benefit of changing this to one or the other? 4: INJECTORS: i have red a bucnch of contradicting info on using low impedance injectors. i do NOT have resistors in my system, i was under the impression that it would work fine by changing my settings, However, in reading, i found info that said this was only okay for engines UP TO 4 cylinders. does this mean i would be best off running resistors and changing the characteristics to high impedance injectors.? What would the part number of the resistors be? and can i get them somewhere local? 5: I have it to the point where it runs and revs okay out of boost up to about 50% throttle. this was accomplished once i switched to 6 injector pulses per cycle, as opposed to the 2 and 3 i was trying. is 6 the proper setting for this? it seems like it got the best results. 6: lastly, a little off topic, i wired in the stock 280zx turbo alternator, and i am having the problem where i cannot shut the car off with the key, does anybody know the number of the diode that i need to put into the alternator signal wire on the top pin of the T connector? I know theres more that i am forgetting, hopefully any input i can get can get me on the right track to getting these fixed. Thanks guys! Edited December 7, 2011 by Fuzzydicerule Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamH Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 (edited) I can help you with #4 as I just fixed this issue! It is correct that the MegaSquirt injector driver wasn't really made to handle 6 injectors -- it creates too much electrical noise for the MegaSquirt to handle. HOWEVER, before you go out and buy resistors to put in your system, there is an easier way! It is very simple to fix the MegaSquirt injector drivers to allow them to handle 6 low impedance injectors with ease, and it ends up getting less noise than installing resistor packs inline with the injectors! Run down to Radio Shack, and buy yourself a 47uf 35V capacitor. Now, take the case off of your MegaSquirt, and find the "boot" header on it. On the underside of the board, it should have the back side of the "boot" header pins sticking through. Solder your two 47uf 35V capacitor leads to the two "boot" header pins. Stick the case back on your MS, and bam! You're ready to go with your new, low noise setup. This may fix other problems you are having as well. For me, I had trouble getting the engine to rev over ~5k or so without having it cut out, and it would also cut out randomly while cruising. Both issues are completely gone. Edit: I also know 5, it should be 2 per cycle, alternating Edited December 7, 2011 by CamH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 im just in the process of getting it running, From what im reading, the problem with running Low Imp. injectors without resistors is that the amperage going through them is too high, and they overheat. does that capacitor fix that problem, or does it fix a different set of problems and can be compounded by doing that along with the resistors? As for the #5, like i said, im just getting it to the point of running, i noticed a HUGE improvement in the ability to do anything but stall when i switched to 6 alternating, and along that same topic, with it on 2, my VE table percentages were getting REALLY high while still not attaining good results, will there be any problem to leaving it on 6 pulses and tuning it that way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted December 7, 2011 Author Share Posted December 7, 2011 (edited) also, i found the answer to number 6. This is just a cheap way to fix a double post Edited December 7, 2011 by Fuzzydicerule Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamH Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 There are some guys on the MSEFI and MSExtra running 6, 8 and 12 cylinders with low impedance injectors without injector overheat issues, so I'm not sure that's a problem. I've never read about anyone overheating their injectors anyways. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 For low impedance injectors, you must run resistors in series or utilize Pulse Width modulation (PWM). Impedance is equivalent to DC resistance. If you don't have enough resistance to maintain a reasonable current flow, current will flow so fast that, yes, you will heat up your injectors to the point of failure. I haven't dealt with EDIS all that much, but I just thought I would give my input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamH Posted December 7, 2011 Share Posted December 7, 2011 For low impedance injectors, you must run resistors in series or utilize Pulse Width modulation (PWM). Impedance is equivalent to DC resistance. If you don't have enough resistance to maintain a reasonable current flow, current will flow so fast that, yes, you will heat up your injectors to the point of failure. I haven't dealt with EDIS all that much, but I just thought I would give my input. Yes, but I am saying the MegaSquirt PWM is fine. People claim that it is weak, but there really isn't much evidence to support that. With the mod I outlined above, and the PWM set up correctly in the injector characteristics menu, there is no reason that MegaSquirt can't drive 6 or more low impedance injectors without needing resistor packs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted December 8, 2011 Author Share Posted December 8, 2011 cam, i did your fix, no real way for me to know if it worked or not but i did it, and i also fixed the inability to shut the car off with the key, does anybody have any input on the other problems im having? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted December 8, 2011 Share Posted December 8, 2011 Sounds suspicious from point #2 that you are not getting megatune setup to interface with the EDIS module. If you cannot get the settings in megatune or tunerstudio set correctly for EDIS 36-1 wheel encoder then I think you should start there. I have never worked with EDIS so I can't really help any farther. I think your assumption in point #1 of being in limp home mode is correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
z-ya Posted December 9, 2011 Share Posted December 9, 2011 4: INJECTORS: i have red a bucnch of contradicting info on using low impedance injectors. i do NOT have resistors in my system, i was under the impression that it would work fine by changing my settings, However, in reading, i found info that said this was only okay for engines UP TO 4 cylinders. does this mean i would be best off running resistors and changing the characteristics to high impedance injectors.? What would the part number of the resistors be? and can i get them somewhere local? You don't need resistors. You just need to turn the PWM on and set the parameters. For starters, set the PWM Current Limit to 30% and the PWM Time Threshold to 1.5ms. If you don't enable PWM without resistors you can damage your injectors or drivers. You can read more in the FAQ section: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/55910-injector-opening-times-spread-sheet/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fuzzydicerule Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 Z-ya that's what I thought but I had read somewhere that pwm was only good for up to 4 cylinders... Moby. I believe my Pip or saw signal is not finding its way to the mega squirt, I am getting a tach reading. And I have fiddled with the timing settings in ms and had it run differently but every time I check it it reads at right below 10* adv Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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