surpip Posted December 27, 2011 Share Posted December 27, 2011 I recently installed a R230 diff from a Z32 TT into my 280Z, just wondering if anyone had been able to break one yet? Or does anyone know how strong they are? Looking to jump up from my 440HP 383 to a 421 SB2 motor with 750hp wondering if the diff, axles, wheel bearings can handle the abuse. I’m guessing axles will be the first to go, just looking for how much power anyone has gotten through the Techno Toy Tuning setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surpip Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 Anyone know? Trying to guess at what im going to need to upgrade next. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck1545 Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 yea, the diff's stub axles are the next weekest link. if your using the TTT setup im assuming your using z32 hubs and wheels bearings right? But to answer your question the actuall stub axles that go inside the differential are the next weekest part. Someone on here has already broke some at one point in time, cant remember why or from what though. Most people keep the IRS to make the car more road course worthy...with that much HP im assuming your doing the straight line thing with hard launches...Back half it, tub it, slap a ford 9" in an be done with the worrying. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 Why do you need 750HP? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surpip Posted December 30, 2011 Author Share Posted December 30, 2011 (edited) Yes I’m using all Z32 stuff the except for the brakes those came off an N/A car. I just had to cut the tab off the wheel bearing to fit the N/A brakes. Do you know of an upgrade to the stub axles? I do drag the car but really looking to get into autocross so trying (as much as it makes sense) to shy away from the 9'' especially since I just spent 5k in all the parts for the rear end. and im shooting for 750HP so i can finnally beat my bud's turbo F Body mustang with my N/A datsun or maybie im compensating for something who knows but that kinda power shure sounds fun to me Edited December 30, 2011 by surpip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck1545 Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 I dont know of an "upgrade per say" but you can check into getting them cyrogenically (SP?) treated to increase strength. There, at one time, was a company on here advertising the services for a very resonable price (free). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SleeperZ Posted December 30, 2011 Share Posted December 30, 2011 (edited) 750hp for autocross ?!?! Yikes. Sounds like a donut machine. Edited December 30, 2011 by SleeperZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Thanks for indicating that the conversion cost $5K. I've been thinking of skipping from an R180 to an R230, passing over the R200. But, it sure won't cost me any $5K. Cost seems to really pile up whenever I start a project. I'm gonna try to break an R200 before spending that much. On autocross, unless your club has lots of space to race in, most courses are too short to support a ton of speed. You likely won't get a chance to use all your power and will have to worry much more about stopping than going (I'm talking tires, not brakes). You'll be fine-I bet you don't break anything other than the bank. If you get too heavy footed, you'll just spin out. I've seen guys with lots of power beat themselves silly by over driving. Drive slow and you'll go faster. I'm putting an LS2 in my 240z for drag racing and general horsing around. I'll autocross it, but I don't really expect to be any faster, in spite of the added power. I applaud you for keeping the IRS-me too. It is a big part of what makes a Z a Z. Keith Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck1545 Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 It does not cost 5k BTW. Im doing the same conversion and the most expensive parts are gonna be from techno toy tuning's shop and shipping both ways. Looking at $1400 for the front mount,axles, strut housings and backing plates and they install the axles in the CV's for you. Add about 200ish for a bling bling mustache bar. get a diff from a junkyard and you wont pay 1k for the chunk. hubs and rear disc brakes come from a multiple abundance of junkyard cars as well. I will have less than 2k in my whole setup. BUT i took my time and collected parts over the years when the price was right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtiez Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 I did either the first or second customer installation of the Techno Toy conversion in a 1974 260Z in 2007. It is a quality conversion but very heavy especially when the chunk of the R230 weighs 117 pounds. Techno worked with me to get the correct mustache bar drilling. I also had to cut an inch and a half out of the frame and box and reweld to clear 11 inches worth of chunk. The A arm on the passenger side will not clear the star without clearancing and rewelding. The R200 would have been much simpler but I wanted a bullet proof setup. This is what is being used for drifting with up to 800 HP. Can't image more abuse. I am turning 12:37 at 111 MPH with MT ET Drag Radials with no problems. Horsepower is around 400+ at the crank. I am going to slicks because my 60 foot time is awful (2.00). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtiez Posted January 2, 2012 Share Posted January 2, 2012 I recently installed a R230 diff from a Z32 TT into my 280Z, just wondering if anyone had been able to break one yet? Or does anyone know how strong they are? Looking to jump up from my 440HP 383 to a 421 SB2 motor with 750hp wondering if the diff, axles, wheel bearings can handle the abuse. I’m guessing axles will be the first to go, just looking for how much power anyone has gotten through the Techno Toy Tuning setup. [/quote Is this finished? I ran into bad clearance problems after I bolted everything up and got it on the ground. Do you have tubular A arms or stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surpip Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 I have the stock a arms and ran into clearance problems myself, TTT has great customer service and about a half hour on the phone with them and I had a new front mount headed my way ( the diff was cocked but I think it was the mustache bar was drilled wrong because I ended up just drilling new holes in the front mount but it still is working great no clearance issues after all said and done I’m sure the conversion can be done for cheaper but where i got my 5K is TTT parts (everything for rear minus the LCA's) ran3.5K 2 R230's off eBay was 750 powder coating royal purple diff oil and poly bushings for the rear was about another 500 so roughly 5k but not too bad for Pease of mind. and as to Bowtiez there is an option to not cut into that frame rail but the high mount is really the way to go and as for the weight gain well, any sprung weight back there can’t hurt at all my lowest 60 so far is a 1.9 with radials so I will eventually go to slicks as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtiez Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 I have the stock a arms and ran into clearance problems myself, TTT has great customer service and about a half hour on the phone with them and I had a new front mount headed my way ( the diff was cocked but I think it was the mustache bar was drilled wrong because I ended up just drilling new holes in the front mount but it still is working great no clearance issues after all said and done I’m sure the conversion can be done for cheaper but where i got my 5K is TTT parts (everything for rear minus the LCA's) ran3.5K 2 R230's off eBay was 750 powder coating royal purple diff oil and poly bushings for the rear was about another 500 so roughly 5k but not too bad for Pease of mind. and as to Bowtiez there is an option to not cut into that frame rail but the high mount is really the way to go and as for the weight gain well, any sprung weight back there can’t hurt at all my lowest 60 so far is a 1.9 with radials so I will eventually go to slicks as well One problem that I have that may be effecting the 60 foot time is that I have Techno coil overs adjusted in the rear to clear our speed bumps and the 275:40:17 ETs. This causes toe in and tire wear and maybe a bad footprint. Techno Toy sells toe adjustable tubular A arms for $425. This may be necessary since I cannot figure out anyway way to change toe in on the stock arms. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck1545 Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 (everything for rear minus the LCA's) ran3.5K 2 R230's off eBay was 750 powder coating royal purple diff oil and poly bushings for the rear was about another 500 so roughly 5k but not too bad for Pease of mind. I added EVERYTHING up for the rear straight from TTT's website and my total is about 2500 minus diff... and thats adding in the coil-overs and struts and such. still not sure where your coming up with the 5k figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surpip Posted January 3, 2012 Author Share Posted January 3, 2012 Yeah opps went back through my credit card statements and it was $2100 I spent at TTT sorry, so total was about 3500 so I confused my numbers One problem that I have that may be effecting the 60 foot time is that I have Techno coil overs adjusted in the rear to clear our speed bumps and the 275:40:17 ETs. This causes toe in and tire wear and maybe a bad footprint. Techno Toy sells toe adjustable tubular A arms for $425. This may be necessary since I cannot figure out anyway way to change toe in on the stock arms I was going to go for the LCA form TTT but I was just trying to stay away from the heim joints because of my daily driver and I just don’t trust them I’m thinking about making some with the same design but using a sleeve instead of a heim joint so you can install the bushing in that and still have the adjustability Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtiez Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Yeah opps went back through my credit card statements and it was $2100 I spent at TTT sorry, so total was about 3500 so I confused my numbers I was going to go for the LCA form TTT but I was just trying to stay away from the heim joints because of my daily driver and I just don’t trust them I’m thinking about making some with the same design but using a sleeve instead of a heim joint so you can install the bushing in that and still have the adjustability [/quote The design forces inner and out pivot joints to be in line. If you are talking about an offset bushing in one side of the inner pivot point or outer for that matter, how could you keep everthing parallel? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowtiez Posted January 3, 2012 Share Posted January 3, 2012 Based on the amount of money I have wasted trying to save money on my Z car build over the last 10 years using someone's cheaper or half a__ed product, my advice is to set realistic goals, mortgage the house or take a second job and get the best in the first place. JTR, Dave's Arizona Z Car, and Techno Toy are, in my opinion, the best sources for hard core parts and help. Motorsports for accessorizing and hard to find stock pieces. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck1545 Posted January 4, 2012 Share Posted January 4, 2012 Yeah opps went back through my credit card statements and it was $2100 I spent at TTT sorry, so total was about 3500 so I confused my numbers Its all good man...I was just wondering what else could have added up to that as im about to do the same swap and didn't want to run into surprises. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surpip Posted January 4, 2012 Author Share Posted January 4, 2012 The design forces inner and out pivot joints to be in line. If you are talking about an offset bushing in one side of the inner pivot point or outer for that matter, how could you keep everthing parallel? No I'm saying cut off the end of the heim joint and find a pice of sleeve the same ID and cut to stock length same as the stock LCA, weld that to the end of the thread and use the poly bushings in that with the stock pin. if you use the T3 LCA you can still adjust it without haveing to unbolt it. i know it sounds like alot of effort but i would trust that more than the heim joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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