LS1240Z Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I was wondering if you need to beat on the tranny tunnel on the 240 with John's LS1 car kit or will everything just drop into place? Thank You Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 You may need to perform some slight massaging on the right side near the passengers left ankle for the t56 to fit. When installing evilc's we found some room by modifying the reverse switch then cutting down the protective bosses and [if memory serves me correctly] eliminated the need to 'beat' the tunnel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1240Z Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 I just bought another 240Z from a member that is completely epoxy primered and will be applying lizard skin to the bottom of the shell. I hate to beat on it after the fact.....thats why I ask. I want to drop a LS7 in the car but wont have the motor available till after the car is painted because of my budget. I would normally test fit the motor/tranny first though. Thanks for the info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I had to beat the crap out of both sides of the bottom of the trans tunnel for the JCI transmission crossmember to fit. I did not need to hammer anywhere else. I did trim some aluminum bosses off of the T56 housing. There is lots of room left on the driver side, now, but the passenger side is very tight clearance. I don't know how you would accurately estimate where and how much to hammer away until you have the engine/trans installed and the trans crossmember in your hand. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1240Z Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 I had to beat the crap out of both sides of the bottom of the trans tunnel for the JCI transmission crossmember to fit. I did not need to hammer anywhere else. I did trim some aluminum bosses off of the T56 housing. There is lots of room left on the driver side, now, but the passenger side is very tight clearance. I don't know how you would accurately estimate where and how much to hammer away until you have the engine/trans installed and the trans crossmember in your hand. That sucks. To be completely honest with you. I didn't plan to use the trans brace because it looked questionable to me when I looked at it years ago unless they changed the design. I wanted something a little more stout. I dont mean to bash the part and I know it works. I will have to mock it up some how. My cousin is going to be building a 240 around the same time. I will try to convince him to buy his motor and tranny sooner so I can test fit it into my car...LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ktm Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 I did not have any issues with the actual transmission mount itself fitting as it should. I had to beat the hell out of the transmission tunnel on the passenger side up towards the firewall for clearance for the 4L60E though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1240Z Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 I did not have any issues with the actual transmission mount itself fitting as it should. I had to beat the hell out of the transmission tunnel on the passenger side up towards the firewall for clearance for the 4L60E though. Dam... I hope the T56 will fit better then the auto. I dont want to beat the crap out of the tunnel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 (edited) If you have a torch and know how to weld pretty well, it wouldn't be much trouble to make a new mount that didn't require beating up the tunnel. I have been tempted to build something different, but I need to just get the car done without adding any additional tasks. I don't weld and I don't have a torch. I hope to be singing a different tune within a few years. My advice it so buy his mount and use it as a guide to build something better. The tranny mount doesn't need to be super strong, the floor you are bolting it to isn't very strong, anyway. The motor mounts handle all the torque and the tranny mount just handles a small percentage of the weight. The real problem with the JCI mount is exhaust clearance. Go thru the forums and look at pictures. My Mentor Wanted forum should have some pictures that shows what I had to do to get the crossmember to fit. Edited January 25, 2012 by RebekahsZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LS1240Z Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 If you have a torch and know how to weld pretty well, it wouldn't be much trouble to make a new mount that didn't require beating up the tunnel. I have been tempted to build something different, but I need to just get the car done without adding any additional tasks. I don't weld and I don't have a torch. I hope to be singing a different tune within a few years. My advice it so buy his mount and use it as a guide to build something better. The tranny mount doesn't need to be super strong, the floor you are bolting it to isn't very strong, anyway. The motor mounts handle all the torque and the tranny mount just handles a small percentage of the weight. The real problem with the JCI mount is exhaust clearance. Go thru the forums and look at pictures. My Mentor Wanted forum should have some pictures that shows what I had to do to get the crossmember to fit. My cousin will be ordering the entire kit and check out his mount. I know the mount doesn't work well with exhaust and I want clearance. I do fabricate and definitely know how to weld so I will make some kind of mount. I'm just more concerned about the fitment of the tranny because I want to coat the bottom of the shell with Lizard skin and dont want to beat on it after I apply it. I prefer to beat it before I prep and spray. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
78 LS2 Z Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 (edited) I had the same issues and had to beat the passenger side floorboard to get the damned thing to work. Had I known about the problems people are having, I would have fabricated my own 2 piece mount (similar to a two piece driveshaft loop, "L" bracket welded to either side with the center section bolted). This was easily the worst part of the whole conversion, at least in my situation. I didn't have any other fitament issues except for this mount. As a side note, my car has never been wrecked and has no structural issues (this is a 1978 280Z). I just didn't like the design of a (1) piece crossmember between the frame rails since it severely limits your adjustability. Now I am too concerned about exhaust clearance in this area. I will be running a true dual exhaust (Camaro LS-1 fuel tank)and exiting out the rear. I may have to re-think the crossmwember design. I may get under my car this weekend, measure and see what I can come up with (via AutoCad) and post the design for comments and discussion. This worries me now, it's really gonna bite if I have to rip this junk out and start over...... PS- the quality of the JCI mount was very good, welds were very nice and an overall good fabrication job. It just didn't fit that great... Edited January 26, 2012 by 78 LS2 Z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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