78 LS2 Z

X2 for the detailed 8.8 solid axle install....Ladder bar? I'd trade all of my TTT stuff now for a good solid 8.8 installed, I cringe at the thought of a clutch drop, even with good IRS parts..... Nice start to your swap, should run great!

I believe these are S speed rated. If I recall correctly, these are the radial version of the Volkswagon Bug tires (hey this is HybridZ after all...), so maybe they are rated to 80 mph! Not sure about the aspect ratio either (my brand of tires never state this, I guess this is why they simply refer to these as "165 metric radials") but I would imagine these are about 165/85 or so. I run these on the street and track with no issues and 120 mph traps through the 1/8th. They do well on big wheelstands too (I couldn't really tell a difference between the cheaters in this regard). There is however a considerable difference in street manners in my experiences from the barely street legal skinnies, which to me made me feel disconnected from the car, especially when running cheater slicks out back on sunny days.. If you regularly drive your car on the street and are ever caught in the rain you will be glad you had these front tires. Good tread that sheds water well, I really don't care about the additional rolling resistance.... You will have to decide whether exceeding the speed rating is an issue for you... I would be interested in other's opinions about exceeding the speed rating, say through the 1/4 mile- I have other friends running the same tire, no issues and these are very quick street/track cars with different power adders and setups, several of these cars do still run the quarter with these tires. I don't run the quarter anymore anyway since I've been banned in Ennis for no license so I'm really not worried about a few MPH over in the 1/8th. There is a safety factor built in with the advertised speed ratings anyway. I looked for the highest quality tire I could find and these were still very cheaply priced tires in comparison to the drag tires and are cheap enough that I replace them yearly regardless of the mileage for added safety (for whatever that is worth).

If you like skinnies for the street (or even a drag car for that matter), it's hard to beat the standard "165 metric radials" for fronts on a 4 1/2" wheel. I've run this combo in my Fox body for years and is much cheaper than any of the M/T race/street tire offerings or just about anyone else. It's really hard to tell any difference in the 4 1/2" wheel vs. a 3 1/2" visually and they fit well and handle OK. Take that with a grain of salt since I like going straight 660 feet at a time and really don't care about corner carving, which you wouldn't do with this setup anyway. I guess the best wording is that they are "safe" for the street and don't offer much in the way of surprises, the car certainly feels better on the road with the slightly wider wheel/contact patch.

If I start breaking axles I will go solid axle 8.8 and sell my TTT conversion. Hopefully it will last on sticky drag radials but I am worried with Ls2/cam/100 shot..I have some of the subtle z flares too (not installed) and have wondered whether the TTT setup can handle a bigger tire such as 275 drag radial or equivalent cheater slick. You have a very nice ride but definitely no sleeper but who cares. I like it and the intimidation factor.

My 5 speed original knob from 1978 Black Pearl on Ebay now, current bid is $25, excellent condition with money back guarantee on quality. From what I have seen, there is no difference in shifter knobs from any other model Z of the same year.

PM sent!

Doesn't matter whether this is the vertical defroster lined 240 style or later 280 style, only mandate is that defroster lines need to work. Thanks

Exactly...That's what I plan for my fiberglass hood. That latch is a PITA and mine was always finicky, pins are the way to go.

I have everything except the rod, would you sell just one of the rods (assuming these are not handed)?

Need remote control actuating rod for passenger side, not sure if these are the same since I don't have it!

No attachment? What does the image depict???

I'm not much on the covers but they will probably look more like they belong after trimming. Right now, they look too big relative to the engine, but you know how opinions are....Post up some finished pics when complete!

Nobody can make a light car these days either, which helps us a bunch. I weighed my car Sunday (LS2/T56 conversion like yours, 1978 car) and it weighed a shade over 2200 lbs. That's where these cars really shine and there is no substitute for Power to weight.....simple Physics. My car has a heavy TT short nose R200 conversion,350Z seats and 03 Cobra brakes, which weigh a ton. I was surprised by the weight, the only thing out of the car was the fuel tank. Aside from a few interior panels, how it sits now will be close to what it will weigh on the street. With gas and me in it, I don't see this weighing more than 2500 lbs at the track....

You just have to love the insane power to weight ratio these cars enjoy when modded.........That is really quick.

Keith, How much does your z weigh with you in it?

Dr. Hunt was going to do this years ago when he got the chance but I haven't seen the writeup. This was a simple ladder bar setup using a Ford 8.8; which when built right is very hard to destroy. I've never had an issue in my drag setup Mustang (built 8.8) and routinely cut mid to low 1.3 60 foot times. The 8.8s are everywhere and easy to source good parts. Something to think about when considering the heft of the 9". Oops, I think we are getting off the topic a bit....

My engine is an LS2 so I didn't have to change the starter. I actually thought the passenger side was the tougher side to install and did require some assistance holding the header while I re-installed the starter. The only reason this took me as long as it did was getting the car on jackstands to notch the motor mount from below. Turns out I didn't have enough room from below with either a grinder or the sawzall (a lift would have been nice) and lowered the car back down and hit it with the sawzall from the top, very easy after I started the cut with a hack saw to guide the sawzall. Notching the mount and getting the header in took all of 15 minutes. I had the front end pretty low on the coilovers (so much that I almost couln't get a jack under the front cross member) -- not sure if this aided slipping the header in or not without raising the engine. I notched the mount per the prescribed 3 1/4", but in reality didn't need more than 1 1/2" of notching. I'm very happy with the headers and don't foresee any exhaust routing or ground clearance issues and the collectors look to be well placed, at least for my 78.

Started the install around noon today and was finished by 4:30; no issues and interestingly enough I didn't even need to raise the motor to get the driver's side header in, slipped right in no problem. I didn't have my booster/ M/C installed so things went a little quicker for me. I also did not need to notch the T/C rod housing on the passenger side but I am within 1/16" of touching and will probably remove the header and take a die grinder to the lip tomorrow since I feel it's a bit too close. Overall not too bad of an install at all, much easier than I thought this was going to be. I'll see about posting a few pics. -Will

Great news...I don't see any fitament issues either and it doesn't look like any trimming of the strut rod threads will be needed either but I have the Techno Toy adjustable rod that has very little exposed threads (just enough, actually)- On my 78 the header almost drops in without notching when I removed the motor mount/isolator bolt and jacked the motor up for some trial fitting. Thanks for the quick reply Joe, can't wait to get these babies in and get to the exhaust shop!

Hi Guys, I am going to attempt this dreaded header install over the New year holiday, is it really necessary to remove the left motor mount to notch it for the required clearance? My original instructions did not state that removal is required (these stated only to use a grinder), but the updated instructions from 1 Tuff Z state the mount must be removed? It looks like an angle grinder might work OK for the notch; I am assuming this is more for safety reasons than an actual requirement....Trying to save some time but not at the expense of safety and common sense. Has anyone attempted this without removing the mount? Any input would be appreciated. Thanks! -Will

I was told by Blake that I would not be getting gaskets or a refund for header gaskets, stating some BS about only having 19 orders and the deal was 20 orders. How this guy stays in business is beyond me....only after I threatened a Paypal dispute (for crediting me on the VB option he neglected to include) did I receive any sort of response from him.

Definitely a Centerline wheel; the hideous center cap is a dead giveaway....These look like the "Scorpion" wheels...

I wrote Blake 3 weeks ago inquiring on the status of these gaskets and still don't have a reply....It would be nice to get an update.

Ran into the same problem, but for me I was replacing the dash cap anyway. I don't think there is another way of getting this out since it must be taken out the same way it was put in (through the front). That's also why I have been particularly careful in getting all of my wiring (Autometer conversion) complete and wired for tach and speedo prior to installing the dash cap. For me, the dash cap will certainly be one of the last items I install.