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Oil pan confusion


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

Im really confused on the oil pan problem. From what I am getting the stock oil pan on an 88 5.0 wont fit because of the crossmember? How do I get around this? I read someone said to get an oil pan from an older mustang? I got the motor for almost free but I dont want to spend alot on fixing this problem. What would be the cheapest way of curing my dilema? I really like the Ford 5.0 but would it be easier to go chevy? Any help would be great. Thnaks guys

Tony

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I'll let some of the more knowledgable "pan" experts give a final answer to your question, but my experience has been: The rear sump pan I thought about using had a small sump up front to cover the oil pump, and then the main sump in the rear for the oil. With the engine properly positioned, the high spot in the middle of this pan will fit over the crossmember. Now if Ford makes (made) a conventional rear sump pan, then I don't know of it. With that said, I'll let the experts take it from here.

 

Terry

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The late model 5.0 mustang pan will work if the engine is in the right position. My engine is placed such that the front sump is just behind the crossmember. I did have to relocate the front sump drain plug to the bottom instead of the front of the sump. I have about 1/8" clearance between the pan and the crossmember. I also have about 1/8" clearance between the upper intake and the hood latch.

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My car has the double-sump, and yes, it fits JUST above the crossmember. It's behind it, but very close. But I have seen a front-sump oil pan on a Z (61-78) and it fit with barely an clearence between the pan and crossmember, but the engine was kind of low and pushed back, too. It had a top-loader, too. Don't know how much difference that made.

 

 

 

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Guest Anonymous

Well, I'll throw my pan in the fire, here, too. I've also got the rear sump, Fox pan, too, but I put my motor so far back that it clears the crossmember by about 1/2". To do that I had to dent the firewall a little to clear the left cylinder bank. I then completely cut out the hump in the pan and welded in a straight piece of sheetmetal. The result: 7 qts of capacity. I also put a baffle in the inside to limit slosh. The front drain plug is now not needed to be removed during oil changes.

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  • 2 weeks later...

well i started to see how it fits in my car. i have it as Dan does, the original 91 mustang twin sump will clear - barely.. a smaller front sump would be nicer--

will relocate the front drain-

 

update.. its now about 1/4" behind the cross member - definintely need to redo the drain on front sump. if a van pan is easily gotten will go for it.. but the stock 5L will work ok.

the motor mounts are the big thing and clearance to the hood latch, will be doing a JTR type latch mount. front balancer is within 1/4" of rack as well.

ordering block huggers tomorrow and once arrive will build motor mounts to clear the steering.

i want this to be just like a JTR but with a 5L, and the FI.

anyone know who sell painless wiring at a good discount?

Mike

 

 

[This message has been edited by scca (edited April 01, 2001).]

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