macambra Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 So, I finally had allof the bugs worked out on my MS2X,I plugged it in, and it started first on the first try. I ran it around the block and it ran OK, but not good enough for a daily drive. So, I performed the VE auto tune and it still ran OK. I ran out of time and had to turn it off and leave for work (swing shift). I went to start it yesterday to continue and it won't start. I have no idea what to start diagnosing. It wants to start but just won't. I thought maybe it was the VE tune but I started a new projct and reflashed the processor without adjusting any fuel system values and I still get nothing. I have spark, I have fuel, and I have air. I tried adjusting the trigger wheel timing since it sounds like a timing issue, but still nothing. MS2X321 L28ET 12-1 trigger wheel(300 degree #1) Ideas anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted February 26, 2012 Share Posted February 26, 2012 Pull a plug.......might be wet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 Removed ms2 from car and tested. Everything seems to be working. I checked voltage to all parts, and found one of my injector fuses popped. Replaced and it popped again. Performed continuity on lead to the ms2 and have 0.3 ohms. After replacing fuse checked power relay circuit with connectors disconnected(no load to ensure nothing in my relay box is shorted)-test SAT. Performed same test with injectors and harness plugged in but ms2 disconnected- test SAT. Plugged in ms2 and tested again- test SAT. Cranked engine- fuse discolored but didn't blow. I am drawing too many amps on that 5A fuse. I will disconnect injectors tomorrow and check each one again along with the injector harness itself. FYI: PWM is set to 30%(low Z injectors with flyback installed) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tennesseejed Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Are the stock dropping resistors still part of the injector circuit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 Are the stock dropping resistors still part of the injector circuit? No, that's why the pwm is at 30% but it's only one of the two injector outputs that's popping the fuse. I built the harness in it's entirety-FYI Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaito Posted February 27, 2012 Share Posted February 27, 2012 Low battery voltage can cause high amp draw and cause one of the injector fuses to pop. I would try charging the battery up and seeing if that helps. If not then something is telling your injector bank to stay open causing fuse to pop. maybe incorrect settings. I would also recheck your injector pwm settings. Sounds wierd that only one is doing it though. You sound like a smart guy though, you will figure it out. good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted February 27, 2012 Author Share Posted February 27, 2012 (edited) Low battery voltage can cause high amp draw and cause one of the injector fuses to pop. I would try charging the battery up and seeing if that helps. If not then something is telling your injector bank to stay open causing fuse to pop. maybe incorrect settings. I would also recheck your injector pwm settings. Sounds wierd that only one is doing it though. You sound like a smart guy though, you will figure it out. good luck. 12.6 volts at the injector power relay. I'm going to check the resistance of the injectors this morning. I suspect something's wrong with an injector. Edit- I tested the injectors, and they seem to be fine. I replaced the 5A fuse with a 20A and promptly popped it. So, I'm biting the bullet and buying a set of 440cc high Z injectors from OsideTiger. I'll update when I install them. Edited February 27, 2012 by macambra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted March 24, 2012 Author Share Posted March 24, 2012 So I'm back at it. Installed the 440cc injectors and my Pallnet fuel rail. Looks great. Replaced all the fuses, changed the injector perameters in tuner studio and tried to start. I managed to get it to fire and run on 3 cyl's. One set of injectors is still popping the fuse. I bypassed the fuse and gave it a straight shot and it popped the 20 amp fuse. At maximum the injectors should pull 2.5 amps (14.7/3= 4.7{following the formula for parallel resisors}then {E=IR (12=I*4.7)=(12/4.7=2.55319)}). Yes, I know it uses a PWM, so, it shouldn't draw anywhere near 5 amps, nor should it draw enough to pop a 20 amp fuse. Specs and tests: Full charge on battery-straight from charger to the car after 12+ hours charging. Tested wiring from injectors to relay and injectors to DB37-good continuity. Tested wiring insulation resistance- no shorts. High Z 440cc injectors- 14.1 ohms MS2 extra 12-1 CAS DIY disk. I check the MS2 on the JimStim before changing the injectors, and it seemed fine. Power for both injector sets comes from the same relay I suspected it's somewhere between the injectors and the MS2 but can't find it. I'm not quite sure where to look now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Are you running batch injection? Are the banks fused seperately? Is one of your driver transistors shorted? Short on one of the banks to ground? Lots to check - just need more info.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted March 25, 2012 Author Share Posted March 25, 2012 Are you running batch injection? Are the banks fused seperately? Is one of your driver transistors shorted? Short on one of the banks to ground? Lots to check - just need more info.... Batch injection, running two banks-inj1,inj2-with 2 5amp fuses. I'll try the stim again, but last time I checked everything worked on my MS2. I think my next srep is to tear apart my harness for more testing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaito Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 Batch injection, running two banks-inj1,inj2-with 2 5amp fuses. I'll try the stim again, but last time I checked everything worked on my MS2. I think my next srep is to tear apart my harness for more testing. Thats what I would do if I were you. Sounds like some sort of grounding/wiring issue especially if working on the stim properly. I just chased down a bad dizzy ground and a bad sensor ground myself. I didnt know how that even happened because I took a lot of time to make sure the harness was clean. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tennesseejed Posted March 25, 2012 Share Posted March 25, 2012 (edited) Macambra, sorry to hear you are still having problems. Here is my troubleshooting suggestion: Rewire the injector circuits, i.e., swap DB32/33 & DV34/35 and see if the same injector bank fuse blows. If the problem does not follow the injectors, you can probably rule out a harness/wiring issue because the other injector bank has been working properly. If the problem does follow the injectors, you probably have a harness/wiring issue. The bad news is that if the same injector bank fuse burns after the swap, you probably have a MS hardware issue. If that's the case I would open DB5 and DB7 to isolate the flyback and PWN circuits from the injector circuits. Since your are using new high-z injectors, you can remove flyback and pwn from the circuit because you don't need them. Edit: Having trouble linking the schematic from Megamanual.com, but it's under 'hardware.htm' Edited March 25, 2012 by Tennesseejed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted March 28, 2012 Author Share Posted March 28, 2012 So, it's raining here in Washington State, and I don't feel like working outside. I decided instead to persue some testing on the MS2. I hooked up the JimStim and turned it on and lo-and-behold the Inj1 LED came on without having any RPM. I tested Q1 with my DMM and it is completely shorted. Off to order a couple of IRFIZ34N's... Thanks for the help guys!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FricFrac Posted March 28, 2012 Share Posted March 28, 2012 So, it's raining here in Washington State, and I don't feel like working outside. I decided instead to persue some testing on the MS2. I hooked up the JimStim and turned it on and lo-and-behold the Inj1 LED came on without having any RPM. I tested Q1 with my DMM and it is completely shorted. Off to order a couple of IRFIZ34N's... Thanks for the help guys!!! "Is one of your driver transistors shorted?" Bingo! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted March 30, 2012 Author Share Posted March 30, 2012 (edited) Update: Changed out Q1 last night(1 day shipping with USPS from Digikey--they must have a warehouse in Seattle). Works perfectly on the Stim again. Will try to get it back in the car and started tomorrow. Update edit: Tested wiring harness and definately have a short in the harness. Probably have a bad piece of shrink sleaving on one of the injector pigtails. Edited April 1, 2012 by macambra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
macambra Posted April 1, 2012 Author Share Posted April 1, 2012 Found the problem. It was a short between the leads of the new EV-1 pigtails. It looks like the shrink sleaving wore through. I ordered a set of 2 pin plugs to fix the problem permanently. Meanwhile, I managed to get it to run. Poorly, but it does run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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