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In January I totaled my 04 G35 6MT with Brembos. I was fortunate enough to be able to buy it back for only $1100! The damage is all cosmetic, and by cosmetic I mean every panel is bashed or has a dent and scrapes. The entire drive-train is untouched and the car still starts up though. I have also held onto my 77 280Z that I've had since I was 16. Oddly enough I came up with an idea of doing this about 3 years ago (not saying I was the first, that would be dumb) but i didn't think my own car would be the donor.

 

So I've barely scratched the surface and know I'm in for a lot of work. I have the Z up on blocks with the engine and transmission pulled. I do intend on using the Brembos and maybe all four hub assemblies, window motors and switches, trunk switch and and release if I can. For now I think I'll hold on to the AC junk and figure that all out later. I don't know if I should use the existing light wiring or if I should just strip it all to the bone.

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Wow! You're so lucky. The G35 did it's job to protect you and your kid, Gotta be happy and glad about that.

 

I'm happy to see your thread and I can't wait to see how you do your swap. I'll help you all I can. I know you said you're on a timeline, so first things first. Getting the engine into the car and running again right? I was telling you about the McKinney kits. They're not cheap, but they will certainly simplify your installation. My Z I had to cut out the tranny mounting brackets in the tunnel, but on the VQ35DE, it'll mount a little furthor forward because of the stock intake, unless you're going to cut into the cowel like EHOW did. Either way you're losing the stock hood latch, But consider this idea: Move the stock latch to a corner of the hood and get a 2nd one from the junk yard for the other corner, then connect them w/ heavy bike cable and you'll have a hood that still latches internally, as compared to hood pins.

 

Don't worry about the Brembo stuff. (Certainly save it, it's worth more than you paid to buy your car back). Setting that up can be a later project and is easier to move than the G35 body.

 

Did you find the FSM for your G35 online? I'm sure it's availible. I can get you the 350Z manuals, they're really similar.

 

Another couple pieces of advice. Get a bucket and all the bolts you pull off, and any little brackets, just save them in the bucket, you might need them later. Try not to cut any wires, and Label everything you disconnect (the FSM has #'s for each connection) This way when you put it back together in the S30, you'll have an easier time. Remember, at the factory, this was assembled modularly, so you can pull things as units, such as the dash, gauges etc w/ harness connected as one unit. Nissan infinity calls the harness connections Super multiple junctions which is japanese for big ass plug. When you're pulling things out, Keep an idea in mind where in the S30 you're going to want to mount things like the ECU etc. I would sugest in similar locations as in the G35, just for simplicity sake.

 

Let me know if you have any questions, and take your time. it's a big job, but it can be done. There will be mods on your S30.

 

I also might be interrested in some of your spare parts when you get closer to done.

 

Phar

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So I started pulling all the crap out of the Datsun. I cut open the wiring harness to pull out the wiring for the lighting. The file lines are pulled back and will end up getting replaced. I need to pull the interior and dash out still but before I put the car back down on wheals I need to pull the gas tank, rear end and cut out the old trans mounts. I think I might pull the old brake lines out as well and plan on replacing those too.

 

I have some rust around the battery pocket. It goes under the shelf that the battery sits on too. I'm planning on using a wire brush attachment for a drill to get most of it, but does anybody know of a chemical I can kind brush on to get the hard spots? I'd like to avoid taking out the shelf since its tax welded in place.

 

Things are a little slow right now. My wife just started school back up and I just got my schedual changed around. So I'll be back at it full force next week hopefully.

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Yep, As for the Rust, if you're not pulling the shelf there's a lot of stuff you can use. Rust eater, etc. I'm partial to Por 15. it's a paint that neutralizes rust and protects at the same time, its sandable and repaintable. The FSM's are on http://www.xenonz33.com/reference.html I highly remommend getting them and pouring over them a while so you can understand how your G35 was put together and what is modular about the harnesses etc.

 

I wouldn't recommend pulling more out of the 280Z than you absolutely have to while you're putting in the VQ. Sure swapping out the brake lines and all sounds like a great idea, but you might want to wait since the brakes are a functional system now and it not needed to be swapped to make the VQ35 run. I'm only saying this because you said you're on a timeline before you have to move. First tings first. get the swap moved over then address the next part of the build. You were talking about redoing the braking system for the brembos so later, that would be a better time to replace your lines.

 

Those tranny mounts are a pain to cut out, mainly for the angle. I was wearing a full face visor and still tried to set myself on fire, not to mention blew through a lot of cutting disks. You might consider lifting the front end with a hoist to make the area more accessible.

 

Can't wait to see more pictures.

 

Phar

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  • 4 months later...

Back hard at work tearing apart cars!

 

The Datsun is almost completelly empty (brake power boost and clutch master need to come out). The Infiniti has the entire wire harness pulled through the fire wall and is sitting on top of the engine.

 

I will be pulling the engine and trans tomorrow. I have a harness to pull out of the carthat runs all the stuff inside.

 

So here is my question...... I've got the crossmember in the infiniti that engine is currentlly mounted to that I can cut out the mounting locations to modify and create mounts out of. Or I can pull the entire crossmember and shorten it to fit in the Datsun. But with the second option I have the problem of how to roll a car out of my garge.

 

Phar of you happen to check this tomorrow, your input would be greatly appreciated.

 

Pictures to come later.

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Heya MadZcar, yup I am on here all the time. You may be able to use the stock G35 crossmember mount, but I think you'd be looking at a lot of fabrication. The S30 frame rails are ~25" apart which doesn't leave much room. Not to mention Isn't the Stock G35 crossmember Aluminum? I'm probably wrong on that. The Stock engine mounts are pretty huge. The can be used though. Look up AHoke's 240Z build. He used the stock mounts but not the crossmember. Don't cut your S30 frame especially south of the Steering crossmember. you don't want to sacrifice strength. I wrapped my rails to increase strength with 1/4" steel.

 

Really, you'll save a ton of headache if you use the McKinney VQ mounts. There's a DIY version of the same on here if you're up for doing it yourself. Ebay has genetic rubber mounts that bolt through to a crossmember for pretty cheap. McKinney's is not cheap, but it's well thought out and made.

 

Yay! Pulling ther Engine and Tranny! that's a big milestone, good work! Be sure to pull off yout shift knob before pulling, I scuffed the heck out of mine being stupid. Gotta replace it now. You're in such better shape by having the donor there availiable. Whatever you need, just pull it off. so handy. Beats the heck outta sourcing parts. So cool, I can't wait for pictures!

 

Oh don't forget the dash harness and body harness#2 (leads to Fuel pump)

 

Phar

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Thanks Phar! Is there two interior harnesses or just one? I'm pretty sure the Infiniti's crossmember is steal. After getting the engine and trans pulled it looks like fabbing the mounts out of the existing crossmember is going to be a lot of work either way I go about it, but less work than creating my own with no welding skills. We all learn some time right? Don't worry I'll have my friend come check my welds.

 

The crossmember is almost 29.5" and the space between the wheel wells on the Datsun (on top of the frame rails). I figured I could notch the bottom side of the crossmember to the 25" mark (or a little less) so I can drop the crossmember down low enough between the frame rails. What is the magic number for how low the engine has to sit so the hood closes?

 

For the trans mount I think I'm going to use the one from the Infiniti for now but instead of how a few people have welded just a two inch square to the floor pan I think I'm going to take it a step further and throw a strap over the trans tunnel and then weld it to the floor pan. Ideas?

 

I'm posting this from my phone so sorry for the lack of pictures again. I'll have some up on Wednesday hopefully.

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Hmm Magic number for the hood, That's a good one. My pan hangs below my cross member from the bottom by about 1 inch. The stock mounts line up with the bottom to middle of the frame rails. I have good hood clearance, I may be able to raise them by an inch on the HR engine and still clear the hood. My engine is out, or I'd give you better numbers. I'm getting her ready to be painted.

 

Oh and Zman, let me know if you have any questions on those..

Edited by Pharaohabq
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