MazerRackham

I've got this one I used to bike everywhere before I got a car. Needless to say I was pretty ripped. Starting to want to get back to that.

Dun needa wipe your toot if you live in a van down by deriver. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XaoM0FyLmGY

skirkland1980 waht defook?

It was a while ago but I remember reading somewhere in some obscure place that there was a Autozone gasket that basically was molded to the bottom of the timing chain cover so you didn't need to replace the entire oil pan gasket if you were being a frisky dingo during removal. Like an idiot I forgot to bookmark the page. Does anybody know what I'm talking about? I've searched the forums but I've got no results and I don't want to spend the next several hours re-tracing my "internet steps." Thanks guys!

Dat tranny doe <3. Amazing work bro.

Your welder is plenty strong. You need argon gas, a flap wheel and some tec screws.

Oh my god dat sound.

Save yourself many tears, hours, and monies by buying a mouse sander, couple of gallons of aircraft paint remover, and a 30 rack of cheap beer. I would start with 150 grit, and finish with 800 grit once I start to see bare metal.

Well its a sign of the times. That's like saying you prefer to have your speedometer set via resistors rather than having a fancy self-calibrating one. While I understand and respect the "ITS NOT FAIR, 'CAUSE IN MY DAY," argument I think we should all be MORE humbled by the fact that we have encyclopedias at our fingertips. No longer do you have to break your back, proverbially of course.

OH MY GOD. OH MY GOD.OH MY GOD.OH MY GOD.OH MY GOD.OH MY GOD.OH MY GOD.OH MY GOD.OH MY GOD.OH MY GOD.OH MY GOD.OH MY GOD. THIS IS AMAZING. Excellent work!

Your thread showed me how to build the bracket to get my E-Brake working. You are a god among men. Keep on keepin' on brother! Your car looks AMAZING.

School and my girlfriend have dominated my life for the past 8 or so months, but I am going to start pulling the engine/dash sometime this week. Perhaps over the weekend. My mechanic said he would plasma cut out the rust and tack weld in the new sheet metal for me. I'm pretty stoked because I'll be able to do all the real welding myself, and he'll be doing the "hard" work of lining up the replacement metal perfectly. Hopefully I'll have all the rust killed over winter and I can beg the family for some Christmas Datsun parts to get her road ready again. Also engine is running stupid rich. My mechanic said it was the AFM that's the problem. I read somewhere that in 1976 the water temperature switch sends some information to the ECU modifying the amount of fuel sent to the injectors. Is this true? If so I believe that it may be my problem. My old water temperature switch wires turned into dust when I was putting the new head gasket in. Perhaps all I need to do is install this new switch to fix the problem?

Stainless steel bicycle brake cable, solder, and tips. Done.

The terrible thing is I know several wanna be racer kids who would devise the exact same device. [/hateraide]

Cool thanks guys I really appreciate this! I figured it would affect me because there are times during cold weather when I have to get out of my car and prime the lines. It must obviously be due to a leak then! This information really helps! thanks again!

A cavalier? Really? smh Sorry man.

Thanks guys I'm going to go through all the motions tomorrow and report in!

Lol. Don't you love it when everybody is like dude that's totally not the problem, and lo and behold that was the problem. Excellent job fixing it! Hope you took a picture of the problem joint so we all know what the symptoms and solutions are!

My Z car does not prime the fuel lines. I have to walk over to my AFM and manually move the pot(entiometer) to trick it into pumping fuel. Was every Z car supposed to prime? What part of the wiring harness is responsible for that?

So the timing light helped a lot. The problem now is that my idle speed is almost 2K RPM!!! I've tightened the idle speed adjusting screw all the way down and its still way up there. Perhaps I haven't clogged the vaccum advance on the distributor enough? This is weird because before I replaced the head-gasket it would idle just fine. Am I supposed to have the vaccum & EGR system put completely back together before I try to set the timing on the engine?

Thanks NewZed! I'll try it right now!!

No a fuel injected L28.

Its not pointing at the #1 piston I mean that currently on full advance the rotor is touching the copper contact for spark plug number 1. I would imagine that at full retard it would be moved several milimeters back from that contact in order to truly "retard" the spark but correct me if I am wrong.

Almost done re-doing the engine. I need some help setting the distributor timing if anybody wants to take a peek in the Engine>Ignition section

I lined up my tang to what looked to be the 11:25 position. This will be my 30th time doing this. When I start the car she starts instantly and without hesitation. The problem is she won't run unless I'm running full advance on the distributor. If I floor it she chokes @ 4,500 RPM. Am I still off one tooth? If I take her back one more tooth she'll be at 12 o'clock. If I move her forward one tooth it doesn't spark the #1 piston at all. Help please!! Also what is an ideal fuel/air mixture to start from i am runnning a fuel injected L28? i.e. how many full turns open from fully closed?