BlueStag Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 Anybody want to buy a Triumph Stag with a L6 in it? I have about 12k and 17 years into it. A decent six-pack might just get it from me. I have just about got the new throttle bodies tuned up, including getting the chokes to operate in sync. It was running like a dream. Smooth and real power. New acceleration. The automatic transmission was suddenly responding correctly. I had tried three different ways to get the flange to tighten up. Finally some Permatex high temp RTV seemed to have it licked. Two days of a civilized exhaust note. Three runs of wide open throttle and the flange gasket (or the RTV) failed. I am ready to firebomb the dratted thing. Do I need to get a new flange and two to one made up, a MUCH THICKER flange that will not distort when tightened? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 (edited) I assume you are referring to the flange between the stock exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe. Here is what I would do. Face off the exhaust manifold so that you know it's flat Fabricate a thicker flange Use heat resistant bolts and nuts made for exhaust components Use a graphite type gasket coated with copper coat Install a flex joint in the exhaust pipe down stream of the exhaust pipe to gearbox mount. Edited March 18, 2012 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted March 18, 2012 Author Share Posted March 18, 2012 I assume you are referring to the flange between the stock exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe. Here is what I would do. Face off the exhaust manifold so that you know it's flat Fabricate a thicker flange Use heat resistant bolts and nuts made for exhaust components Use a graphite type gasket coated with copper coat Install a flex joint in the exhaust pipe down stream of the exhaust pipe to gearbox mount. If by "face off" the face of the exhaust manifold you mean pull the studs out and machine the blasted thing flat, grr. One stud sheared two weeks ago, and another will never come out without shearing. (Plus I just pulled all this apart and put it all back together. I REALLY am not wild about going at it again.) I did run my large mill file across the flange face to knock down the worst of the high points. Thicker flange for the exhaust pipe. OK. Grrr. I am pretty sure I used the correct studs. The nuts might be a different thing. Care to be a bit more specific? I have no clue what sort of gasket you are talking about. Got a link to one on somebody's site? I did install a flex joint, just behind where the pipe turns horizontal and before its hanger at the transmission. What kills me is that the whole mess hangs so low that I could not leave the clamps on, I caught one within minutes of taking the car out. So I had it welded up...kill me now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted March 18, 2012 Share Posted March 18, 2012 (edited) See if this stuff fixes your problem: Extreme-Temperature Compressible Graphite Gaskets. Get the stuff with the stainless wire insert. Just use studs made for exhaust components. You can get them at auto parts stores. Edited March 18, 2012 by rossman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueStag Posted March 18, 2012 Author Share Posted March 18, 2012 See if this stuff fixes your problem: Extreme-Temperature Compressible Graphite Gaskets. Get the stuff with the stainless wire insert. Just use studs made for exhaust components. You can get them at auto parts stores. Ah. I thought you were talking about actual automotive gaskets specifically for the application.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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