Coil Condensor, Or RF condensor

[rhettro74]

I have a 1977 280z With a 1981 280zx turbo swap. I've got it running but not great still working on guages aswell I have the key off runnon that is supposed to only affect 240's and early 260's so I was doing the diode fix. Non functioning oil pressure, temp and Tach.

 

Now the car wont start anymore after finding this condensor

 

Here is a picture of the part in question

showing wires that were connected it was bolted to the coil mount

car was running when it was all connected a connection looked weak so I wiggled the wire and it broke then when unplugging the other side it broke aswell.

 

I decided to just plug the wires directly together as I did some searching on this and other sites and was convinced this is just an RF condensor and is to reduce radio interfearance. Started to crank the engine would'nt start and the wire going to the coil started melting the insulation wire. I unplugged the two wires and cranked and it still won't start. Do I need to source a new one and/or did I damage something?

 

Also I at the same time was doing the Diode fix at the alternator T connector, should the car start without this plug plugged into the alternator? my thinking is it's just the exciter that gets the alternator charging and should'nt affect the car starting. Thanks for any help

Edited April 1, 2012 by rhettro74

[NewZed]

The condenser/capacitor does not allow current flow through it. It absorbs and releases electrical pulses, but is still insulates positive from negative. When you connected the two wires you created a direct short, that's why the wire started smoking.

 

You may have gotten away with it, but won't know unless you measure voltage on that wire or use a test light on it. You'll be way ahead if you just measure voltage and resistance on the ignition components to make sure that they are right. If everything's right, but it still won't start then you can look elsewhere for the source of the no-start problem. The capacitor shouldn't be necessary for the engine to run, but it does serve a purpose in the long term.

 

If you don't have a meter, at least do the basic tests of confirming spark and fuel (injectors working).

[rhettro74]

Thanks for the quick reply left it unplugged and I must have dodged a bullet I took the battery out to take out the voltage regulator and do that fix put the battery back in and it started up. Now I guess I need to find a new one.

 

Thanks

Edited April 1, 2012 by rhettro74