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1972 240z LS1/T56/R230 build


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I have never heard of an engine management system that doesnt use knock sensors...... How will you know how much timing to give it?... :mellow:

 

I wouldn't sweat the pistons having kissed the valves. VERY common to float the valves with over-revs on these motors. Thats why I would NEVER put a motor together with the stock valve train. Its too cheap of insurance. Do yourself a favor and buy some upgraded valve springs, seats, seals, retainers, and some stock length (7.400") chrome moly pushrods.

 

If my big boy stub axles would get here I'd sell you my 280 stubs.. till then I'll be driving on them.

 

I am probably the largest non-fan of the JCI setup that there is. I feel that the mounts are garbage - all of them, especially the trans mount. Is it work-able? Yes. It is pretty? No. I've heard of lots of (240) guys ripping the floor pan with this mount though.

 

A note on the pilot bearing - DONT USE IT. Use a bushing instead. If your pilot bearing goes bad, then it WILL take the input shaft of your tranny with it. I've used bushings forever, no problems. Just change it when you do a clutch change. ANY sbc pilot bushing will work (69 camaro is my go-to)

 

/novel

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thanks for the tip on the pilot bushing, ill go exchange that today

 

As far as the JCI trans mount, i am planning on using a load distribution plate for that reason, and my floors have been replaced with thicker gauge sheet metal, the engine mounts will look prettier than anything i could make so thats why im using them, and i may modify the trans x member to be a better fit. Id much rather start from an existing mount than make my own, been there, done that, hate it.

 

 

As far as the valve train, im broke and theres more pressing things i need to buy to finish this swap, these things are cake to work on so ill upgrade in the future.

 

Stub axle wise, when do you think youll get them swapped? i will gladly buy those stockers off you if the price is right and it doesnt take a millenia. The only response to my wanted thread was for what i felt was too much (165 for stubs and companion flanges, may very well be the going rate though, i was looking for more in the 100 dollar range, considering i dont need the CF's)

 

From what i can see, neither the fast EZ-EFI controller or the XIM ignition controller have anything to attach to the knock sensors... i guess ill find out when im hooking everthing up though. People have gotten by without the things for a long time =P The setup comes loaded with a stock LS1 tune, so ill stick with that for a while.

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Also, i was gonna post a bit of an update last night, but i passed out from exhaustion

 

The rest of my fuel system crap showed up, as well as my water pump bolts and exhaust flanges

 

Got a bit more work done on the motor, got my front fuel crossover in, as well as some very pretty looking Holley valve covers.

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Exhaust flanges and my cheap-o Spark plug wires. Ill probably change those out eventually

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New slave and TOB on WFritts suggestion. cleaned the bellhousing a bit (the front of the trans was being a beezy so i gave up on it, i dont care enough...

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My crowded as hell garage

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and my bag o bits

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any my old school white knob, it wont go with my interior at all, but whatever.

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LASTLY, Anybody interested in these? theyre a set of nameless Fabricated aluminum valve covers. they are very pretty, but they dont have coil mounts or breathers, i was going to use them but then i acquired the holley VCs and decided to use those

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Edited by Fuzzydicerule
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I would look into doing a remote bleeder on the t56 slave - It will make your life easier in the future. Looking good!

 

and on the stub axles, i'm at the mercy of chequered flag joe. As soon as they're here, it'll be shortly after that they're available

Edited by SUNNY Z
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haha, aint no shop, its my dirty ass garage... Unfortunately, ive been working 40 hours, on closing shifts so i havent had alot of time to do much of anything

 

Thursday night i made my AN clutch line (i had to take a bit of material off of the adapter, it didnt fit quite right), and the Feed line. I decided to run it next to my passenger side frame rail for a couple reasons. 1 being that if i ever have to service it, i dont have to take the transmission out. 2 being that i dont have to finagle it around the ebrake mechanism, brake lines, and other things. it runs very cleanly down the floor rail, up the SFC, up the rear frame and pops above the moustache bar and points directly at my pump. I plan on doing the return the same way down the drivers side.

 

But of course when i was done and went to put it in i found out that summit forgot to send my my -6 > 3/8 Tube fitting, so i couldnt hook anything else up anyway, so i stopped for the night

 

I also got an Email from John at JCI asking me to be patient on my Mounts (He told me when i ordered that one of them was backordered for about 10 days.) and asked that if i could wait until the last mount was in before he sent them in case someone more urgent ordered (the set he pulled was his very last set of mounts). Being that, while i could put the motor in if i wanted to, i still have some cleanup i want to do in the engine bay, i said sure, he offered me a discount on a DS if i waited so i was all for it =) Kinda ruins my plans for getting the motor in this coming week, but so did about 3 other things, so im not going to sweat it.

 

Anywho. Last night i got my Alternator bracket in. The Car Shop is the company that makes it. Its a very nice peice and has quality components, but doesnt come with instructions, so i had to determine what goes where by looking at the inventory sheet, and the picture on their website.

 

My only real complaint is that it doesnt appear to have been made with the F body alternator in mind, as the leads on the back (with the air blower thingy taken off) are about 1mm from the head, and the ear hits the big circular boss on the water pump, so it doesnt line up. However, I love the placement and it will make wiring it that much easier

 

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This is the big sucker just above the upper radiator hose outlet, you can see the alt is resting on it(maybe)

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Thats how far off it is, not much by any means

 

And my Clutch line

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Edited by Fuzzydicerule
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You're doing better than me. I just cross threaded an axle stub nut and buggered the treads on my axle stub too. Gonna spend the rest of the day with a jeweler's file trying to salvage it. Probably down for the week waiting for another bolt. With the squished-type locking nuts, it is so hard to know if the nut is starting straight because of the resistance on it even when it is on straight. One side turned out great, the other side - screwed.

 

On the alternator, try a truck alternator. They are a little shorter and don't have that rear mounting boss. Very plentiful. Wiring plug will likely be a little different.

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Subscribed! On the tranny mount, I have the JCI and don't like it for the same fact that Rebakah'z stated-it does NOT conform to the trans tunnel. Check SUNNYZ's-made his own and allows significantly better exhaust clearance. For the headers suggest you read the LT thread here. Many pages and lots of good info. Now that my install is complete I also added some 'do over' items at the end of the thread. Great build & love the WWII paint scheme too!

 

I had no issue with the JCI transmission mount on my 1972 240z. It conformed to the transmission tunnel perfectly and fit exactly between the frame rails.

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ktm - can you post a photo of that? I'm serious. I'd like to see perhaps what I did wrong. I had to beat the crap out of the passenger floor and had to trim one end and re-drill the holes in it to get it to fit between the frame rails. I had to slot the holes where the tranny mounts because they were not drilled in the correct place.

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I won't really mind if I have fitment issues, I have the capacity to alter the mount

 

Anywho, I am currently 3 alternators and 3 belts deep into getting this high mount kit working. The avalanche alternator was an identically terrible fit to the f body alt( hit the boss on the water pump and te lead were way too close to the head, so a work today I spent half an hour looking through my alternator lookup and out of 30 or so that looked promising, I had one in stock, an Alternator from a 94-96 Buick skylark, and after grinding off a useless boss on the back and trimming the plug, it fits, just barely but it fits.

 

As far as the belt, my original estimate was a smidge too short and I overshot on the second, hopefully the in between will do the trick

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Belt Number 3 works damnit, Its a 63 3/8 belt, and was still difficult to get on, but once i realized i should to the WP last it slipped right on...

 

Im a big fan of how this turned out, i just wish the company would have provided more information on how to get this bracket to work

 

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The back of the alternator is all but touching the head, luckily with this alternator it is the case of the alternator, not a power lead like on the F body and Truck alternators that i tried, all it required was grinding down an extrusion on the back and cutting the pry bar on the electrical plug and it slipped right in.

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The plug is on the underside, the downside is that i will have to remove the alternator to undo it (which is two screws and taking the belt off, so its no biggie) The upside is that all the wiring will be damn near invisible

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ktm - can you post a photo of that? I'm serious. I'd like to see perhaps what I did wrong. I had to beat the crap out of the passenger floor and had to trim one end and re-drill the holes in it to get it to fit between the frame rails. I had to slot the holes where the tranny mounts because they were not drilled in the correct place.

 

 

It may be an issue of the transmissions we are using. I opted for the 4L60E and you have a T56. While JCI's mount is the same, maybe the mounting position is different. I broke my collarbone mountain biking 2 weeks ago and won't be under the car for a bit.

Edited by ktm
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It may be an issue of the transmissions we are using. I opted for the 4L60E and you have a T56. While JCI's mount is the same, maybe the mounting position is different. I broke my collarbone mountain biking 2 weeks ago and won't be under the car for a bit.

Mine seemed to fit just fine with the T56 transmission.

 

1TuffZ in the background "lightening" my car.

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I had to shorten mine as well as some mild massaging of the trans tunnel. Initially he [John] sent me the wrong tranny mount [sent it for a 280] and yelled at me over the phone saying it was my fault and I didn't provide sufficient info as he requested. Not sure how much more he needed; vin, build month & year as well as stating it was for a 240z...

 

Eventually got the same one you see in Litman's photo. Hindsight I'd have purchased only his engine mounts or gone the C5 mount route Litman did and fabbed or paid someone else to fab the trans crossmember [think better fitting with the trans tunnel & greater exhaust clearance]. I personally like the trans mount that SUNNYZ made for his 77.

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