ciavola Posted May 20, 2012 Share Posted May 20, 2012 I am restoring a 1970 Z , I am doing a R200 swap, I bought the M-bar, Control arm Hanger, Front Crossmember, and the r200 differential from a 280z. I am having an issue figureing out the mounting procedure. I installed everything and the strap that goes on top of the differential wouldnt fit over the bolts that holds the insulator on the front differential crossmember. so I figured it was incorrect so I dropped everything back out, reversed the insulator because i thought I had it backward( I had the bigger part towards the front of the car) so I flipped the insulator around and the strap now fits, but the differential is a half an inch from the mustach bar. and the drive shaft doesnt fit now.(too long) I can not figure what part of this I have incorrect. Ive searched for info and found basic info, but nothing that address these issues. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Others may have a different opinion, but I say ditch the strap and just work with the rubber insulator. The strap is just such a pain and I think it is only necessary if your rubber mount breaks. That will let you turn it (the insulator) around and get your diff installed. Then, save up for an RT (Ron Tyler) mount - it sort of solves all these diff mounting problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jax 260z Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 Are you are talking about the arrestor strap that goes over the front of the diff. If so the strap will not fit over the R200 as it is larger in diamanter than the R180. You might look into a Ron Tyler or a Technoversions front mount. They both work very well, And are easy to install. I have one in my early 260z, and it works great. ( http://www.technoversions.com/index.html ) The best way to mount it is to also get the top mount, and eliminate the factory lower mount. Check out his web site and look at his product. You won't be sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciavola Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 If the RT mount will solve my problems, I will buy one, but which is the correct way to mount this? I have read different things about turning the M-bar around. reversing the bottom mount moves the differential towards the back of the car. I have never heard any mention of removing the strap all together in all the stuff I have read on any sites. Can any one confirm wich way the stock mount mounts. the wider side towards the back or the front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jax 260z Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 (edited) It has been been awhile since I looked at my car, But with the R/T or technoversions front mount, you don't need to use the stock front mount as long as you get their urethane top mount. It bolts to the custom mount and to the diff. allowing the diff. to dolt to the m/bar and allows for the better axle shaft angles. I hope that this helps you to get your car back together soon. ( My Z is in Arizona and I just moved to Georgia. I hope to get it shipped here soon. ) The price on the Technoversions is about $100.00 shipped to your door. Edited May 21, 2012 by jax 260z Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 21, 2012 Share Posted May 21, 2012 You don't have to do any monkey business with the mustache bar with the RT mount - you just take off the stock front insulator and sell it on ebay! With the RT mount, you need to get the part number for the urethane bushing that bolts to it - it is not included in the RT mount. Then you just paint it and install it. I can walk you thru it if you have trouble. In the meantime, you'll be ok without the strap. If your bushing is new, you'd be ok for years unless you have a high torque engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciavola Posted May 21, 2012 Author Share Posted May 21, 2012 what about using the bumper stop that comes with the RT Mount? bad? as opposed to the top mounted one? also is the RT with upper mount a straight bolt up on a 70? no fabricating? I also received an email that 72 and later used different strap brackets that allowed the stock strap? Thanks for the info.. You don't have to do any monkey business with the mustache bar with the RT mount - you just take off the stock front insulator and sell it on ebay! With the RT mount, you need to get the part number for the urethane bushing that bolts to it - it is not included in the RT mount. Then you just paint it and install it. I can walk you thru it if you have trouble. In the meantime, you'll be ok without the strap. If your bushing is new, you'd be ok for years unless you have a high torque engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 I've shared all I know from having done this swap last weekend. You can call me if you need anything more. 256-366-3685. Keith. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciavola Posted May 22, 2012 Author Share Posted May 22, 2012 Keith, I may take you up on the call. I ordered the mount and insulator today from Brian at TechnoVersions. this is the same bushing your talking about correct. (PIC of bushing) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Yes. Call or pm me when the mount arrives and you have it painted. You will need to cut a couple of clearance "reliefs" in your front cross member too so give me a holler when you have the front cross member off and a dremmel tool with a fiberglass cut off wheel. I am available most evenings but work days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Look for my 27 may 2011 post in my thread called ls2 project mentor wanted in the gen3 v8 forum for pics of my cross member reliefs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 Also order a part number 355-9-9102G from jegs.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
texis30O Posted May 22, 2012 Share Posted May 22, 2012 You might want to edit your phone and put it in a pm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheeler Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 (edited) I bought the R/T mount from technoversions and while it looks great the isolator that it comes with does not sit flat on the top of the nose of the diff???? Any one have a picture of one installed? The mount was pretty cheap and really looks like a quality part, just hope it works now. Edited June 13, 2012 by Wheeler Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jax 260z Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 I bought the R/T mount from technoversions and while it looks great the isolator that it comes with does not sit flat on the top of the nose of the diff???? Any one have a picture of one installed? The mount was pretty cheap and really looks like a quality part, just hope it works now. I talked to them when I was installing my mount. they said you can either grind off some of the plastic from the mount, or shim it away from the diff. ( that is what I did ) I had no problem using shims,as you want the mount to conform to the top of the diff. I hope this helps you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 13, 2012 Share Posted June 13, 2012 I used my bench grinder to sculpt a recess in the bottom of the rubber insulator so that it conformed to the nose of the differential. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wheeler Posted July 10, 2012 Share Posted July 10, 2012 Thanks that did the trick, mount works great Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted July 11, 2012 Share Posted July 11, 2012 That second part number is for a rebound snubber under the nose of the diff and the crossmember. The RT mount still allows a fair amount of movement and I still had some clunk until I put a snubber under it too. Still a little clunk but but much much less. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Heroez Posted August 1, 2012 Share Posted August 1, 2012 Its so much simpler to swap in a 4.11 r180 because your going from r180 to r180. The 720 4.11 r180 uses bolt in axles like your z. The 200sx r180 requires clip in axles or a button swap from your old r180. Though I HIGHLY recommend not altering the r180. When you start taking it apart you have to assemble it with tolerances and great care. See how I messed up by removing the side retainers in my thread, 4.11 r180 problem. I likely ruined it by my ignorance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.