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HybridZ

Deal of the week


rayaapp2

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I am posting this father's day morning to gloat my latest CL find.

Mind you the car barely runs currently and was a blast to drive 30 miles home @50mph

 

250K miles 1982 280zx turbo

There are about $600 in back fees due now that Ive been able to check out the DMV reg calculator. The seller had no clue that you had to non-op it if it didnt pass smog. Oh well its pretty rusty. However it has a solid transmission, suspension, and engine. The fuel pump and fuel system is on it way out. With good pressure in the fuel system everything sounds good. I got up this morning and did a valve adjustment on it and changed the spark plugs.

Best $200 Ive spent in a while.

 

Moral of the story: Its worth it to call those CL adds with no price listed. The guy was gonna donate the car and could have easily been talked down. His reasoning was to the effect of the rims are worth $200. I gladly handed over two crisp $100 bills and left with a smile and enjoyed the 'journey' home. B)

 

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Its setup on suspension tech lowering springs and monroe shocks too!

I figured even if the reg was as bad as it sounded before I checked it out that I could not go wrong for $200.

 

Im half temped to build a Lemons cars.

Edited by rayaapp2
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Based on your pictures I say you have a Z "problem"! :P

 

Clinical, as pointed out by everyone that comes over.

 

I ended up cutting it up. Im bringing home another members 240Z in the next month or so along with my trucks bed and trailer full of parts and one '02 Katana GSX750F. Not to mention Im taking on a customers 73 240Z that needs brakes, L24-L28 engine R&R, 5spd conversion from autobox, and replacement exhaust system.

 

In my defense the brown 280z is sold and there is a white 260Z not pictured that is also sold. The 280z will be sticking around though for an LS1 swap and much more.

 

So that should explain why the 82 was cut up as soon as it was. The back fees on the registration were just the seal on its fate.

 

The engine is now on the engine stand in my garage next to the spare RB25 build Im lagging on and several other turbo and non-turbo L28 long blocks rolling around on the floor. I need a shop.

 

Oh did I mention that the turbo charger is practically new! The compressor/compressor housing, center, and wastegate are all brand new. The wastegate actuator and turbine housing are re-used in good shape. So practically a new turbo on this engine came with the car! There is practically no play in the shaft. It almost feels like a ball bearing setup. I will have to open it up and inspect it for a 270* thrust bearing and install one if needed.

Edited by rayaapp2
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Good find ray. I got mine for 500, but was in a bit better condition than that.

 

rejracer

 

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RB25det stock BOV after I cut the cold pipe to fit and used an intercooler pipe from a dodge sprinter MB 5cyl diesel. Actually you can see the garrett on the floor in the first picture off the same sprinter.

Just playing around with ideas.

 

Should give you some of your own even if your running stock boost levels or no intercooler. Personally I like having charged volume in front of the throttle plate.

Edited by rayaapp2
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My setup for now is bone stock, I'm still running the stock "blow off" valve, the one that vents pressure from the jpipe to the manifold. That is the one stock component I would like to ditch in favor of a modern BOV vented before the turbo.

 

I've thought of the RB25 det valve, but I need to determine what I am going to do with the rest of the plumbing before I make purchases.

 

Do you have any Sac trips planned?

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I will be up there briefly June 30th and 31st. Why whats up?

 

I think if you hit Venus up on a 'good day' you may be able to get the bits you need for a good price.

 

You would only need to set it up close to what I have in the pictures and you would be able to choose from intercooled or large J-pipe. I could go either way right now. You would need to eliminate the stock rubber turbo intake. Specifically for your 240Z you would only really need a new intake with separated provisions for the PCV(if in fact you wanted to continue to run that), and the BOV. All those other orifices can be eliminated when building your new intake pipe. The expensive part always seems to be the silicone couplers. 034MotorSports(Fremont Ca and they do ship and one of our members here is an employee) makes T couplers that will work for your intake piping. They are not too pricey and Ive been happy with their couplers as opposed to the Ebay knock off stuff that gets hard, or blows up under boost. Obviously you will not see boost before the turbo, but it illustrates the point.

 

Its been some time since Ive actually had to think about setting up a turbo L series and it seems Ive lost some of the information I once knew that launched my 260Z with an L28 in to the low 12 sec 1/4 mile times. Matter of fact its been at least 6 years(maybe 7) since Ive owned one and several more since I had built one. Ive been refreshing myself though.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm going to use some of the guides that are online as a starting point.

In my mind they translate to something like this:

 

Down pipe

boost controller

Inter cooler

re-adjust boost controller

FPR

re-adjust boost controller

Standalone

re-adjust boost controller

upgrade fried turbo

re-adjust boost controller

Intake manifold

 

 

Concerning the couplers, I've used Fernley plumbing couplers from the likes of home depot before. Very cheap, but those are probably the units that you are referring to that explode.

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I'm going to use some of the guides that are online as a starting point.

In my mind they translate to something like this:

 

Down pipe

boost controller

Inter cooler

re-adjust boost controller

FPR

re-adjust boost controller

Standalone

re-adjust boost controller

upgrade fried turbo

re-adjust boost controller

Intake manifold

 

 

 

Concerning the couplers, I've used Fernley plumbing couplers from the likes of home depot before. Very cheap, but those are probably the units that you are referring to that explode.

:lmao:

 

No those cheap 2 ply pretend silicone couplers seem to do the exploding. Those plumbing ones work... I dare say it on the forum, well. They do tend to get hard as they are exposed to any hydrocarbons and heat though and eventually will leak boost around the clamped ends. But good to get you going and for short term for sure. I think I have one on my car for 6 months.

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