MazerRackham Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) Can I do this with the engine and tranny in? The damage is just as bad on the other side. I need some video's to get me stoked as **** to cut these out and weld in the new ones. Weather is nothing but sun for the rest of the month. I think I'm going to bite the bullet and pull the dash after I see my girlfriend tomorrow and go to work. The damage is worse on the passengers side. On the passengers side the rust extends up the floorpans to firewall/the battery tray area. Its almost all eaten through. I've got a hammer and I've got a Lincoln 110v mig welder. Lets do this. Preferable videos of fast Z cars, babes, and molten metal. Edited June 20, 2012 by MazerRackham Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dexter72 Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 If you are concerned about welding close to the trans, engine or, dash. You can get your replacement panels and glue them into place. I have seen a few body adhesive products that make attaching metal panels easier. I like to use the finished product I have thought about for months, as my motivation. Nothing like attacking one problem from a list at a time and then crossing each one out, until that list is real small. I performed my rust repairs as I was gathering the parts to fix my car, The floors, door sills, battery box, and spare tire well. I cut the rust all out and sealed and riveted all the new sheet metal into place. It was never planned to be a show car, just a fun play toy that had the power to keep up with todays performance cars. Attack those rust repairs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 20, 2012 Share Posted June 20, 2012 Take the engine and trans out of the car. I'm sure there will be more areas that need attention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 26, 2012 Share Posted June 26, 2012 Taking the engine and trans out will take a few hours. Working around it will be weeks of agony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted July 26, 2012 Share Posted July 26, 2012 Remove the driveline. Get the car up at least two feet, and VERY WELL SUPPORTED! The chassis will flex like a rubber brick if it's not supported well, and when you weld the new floors into place it'll stay that way. Two feet is a comfortable height for working on that section of the firewall on the passenger side. Remove the front fenders, and clean out your cowl area. Always try to work from the top down, with that 110 MIG, and USE GAS! Gasless MIG is not your friend for body panel work. Don't cheap out with CO2, either, go for C25 mix. It's a little higher cost, but will save you days of frustration from burning through panels or lacking penetration on layered sheet assemblies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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