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HybridZ

Ford powered Z on it's way!!!


Jwink25

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Well guys, after many delays (and changed minds) I finaly picked the enigne I am going to use in my Z. When I first bought it over 2 years ago I was going to rebuild the stock motor. Then put in a built 280 motor, then a Turbo motor, then a ....so on and so forth.

 

I toyed with the idea of a small block Ford in it for a while. First a 302 then a 351W...well...now I have made up my mind for sure. I will be pulling the 289 out of my 67 Cougar(gotta make room for the 351W) and building it up to about 300HP. I am ordering a crossmember from alsil. It looked to be very well made. I can't wait to drop the V8 in.

 

I bought my 1971 "early" Z for only $300 bucks!!! It was almost completely disassembled when I got it. There where boxes and boxes of parts. I aslo got enough extra parts to almost build two cars. The extra parts came from a 260Z that was tore apart by the guy I bought the car from.

 

The car's body was almost as straight as an arrow, and had almost no rust on it what so ever! I could not believe my find. I had never really ever worked on an old Z car before I got this one. So it's been a learning experince to say the least! Not having taken most of the parts off myself didn't help either. There was alot of "hmmm..what's this thing" and "where's this go".

 

I have since done alot of work to the car. I still need to finish the body work and painting. I sanded, painted, and then water sealed and under coated the underside and inside of the car. That was a lot of work but since these cars didn't come undercoated from the factory it was needed. I wanted to keep my car rust free. I have never seen an old Z car as rust free as mine. I have also redone almost every thing on this car. figured since it was already out of the car might as well as repaint, rebuild, or do whatever to it. I want to upgrade the braking and suspension on it. and put in all new urethane bushings. This car is going to be so much fun! I hope! 2thumbs.gif

 

Well, thanks for reading this long post. Feel free to give out any tips or hints on dropping in a 289.

 

jwink25

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Three lovely numbers all arranged in perfect order. 2-8-9. Being the proud father of a 289 (and a 302 earlier in the game) I know you will be very happy. I finally got mine tuned, and is now close to optimal performance. I'm glad to hear about your blue oval decision. Keep us informed on it's progress, and pass a picture or two on to us during the project's life.

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I got a digital camara (need to get it back from a friend). So I'll be able to take some pics. I am going to take some of the car now so I'll have before and after pics.

 

I am going to use a C6 tranny in the car for right now. Has anyone one done this before? Will it fit just like a C4? The reason for the C6 is because it is already built up. I would like to get my hands on a 5 speed, but they are hard to come by around here.

 

Jason W.

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Guest Anonymous

I love the 289 and had I gone Ford like I originally was considering, its what I would have used. Theres something somewhat romantic about putting the same motor that Shelby used in the early cobra (ace). Its a high winding son of a gun, heck whats not to like about a sub 3" stroke? :D My friends 64 comet caliente had a 289 4sp and was known by all of us at the time as 'the rail' because of the way it sounded with a 3/4 racing cam and the RPM's it would pull, it sounded damn right brutal wound to 7k, made you feel like you were at lemans or something.

Good luck with it, looking forward to the pictures.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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The body is the Elbogrease Special. Surprisingly cheap, but it took forever for me to get it. Took about 2 weeks to do the body shape and lay-up, and then forever to the Nth degree to finish/detail it (do you see any paint on it YET?). Heck, If Pete can finally get a picture of a finished car up here, I guess I can too (he he).

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Guest Anonymous

In response to your question about the C6, I believe that a C6 may be very difficult to use due to it's physically larger size. The C4 has a very good track record and would probably be easier to use. However, please let us know if the C6 works. I have one myself and am a bit curious about the idea.

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Guest Anonymous

Lee, your probably right, the C6 with the one piece case is pretty large in the front. The 700R GM tranny is pretty sizable and fits, so it might be close. Most people I have known that run ford auto's swear by the C4 for even heavily modified cars. The C6 will cost you more horspower to run with its larger front pump and internals. The C4 is nice and small. I had a friend that used to modify them with his own 'shift kit' it consisted of a cotter pin he put stragetically somewhere in the valve body. He may have drilled a hole too, I can't recall, he was a bench racing auto school buddy some 25 years ago I haven't seen since. Anyway, after his little mod, it would serious chirp the tires on each shift if you had your foot in the gas heavily :D .

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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  • 3 months later...

There are at least three of us on this board that have the late model 5.0L in our Z(Mike Gibson (scca), Alsil and myself). My combination is a 1974 260Z with a 1989 5.0L and T5 tranny. My 5.0L has edelbrock aluminum heads, Cobra Intake, 24# injectors, 73mm MAF, 70mm TB, Crower 15511 cam, FMS E351 1.72 roller rocker arms.

 

My car has the Outlaw Calipers and Ground Control Coil-overs on all four corners.

 

I use the car for Autocross mostly, but also run mid 12s at 112 mph.

 

Look at Mike's (scca) site for good pictures of engine placement.

 

Good Luck

 

Dan

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Hey Scottie,

 

The frame is welded in place (starts at rear crossmember goes all the way forward. The main hoop of the cage and the bars going rearward are tacked together. The door bars are notched(an x), and the holes are cut in the firewall. I now have to finish the tubing ahead of the firewall. I hope to have the car at the welder's in about 2-3 weeks for the final welding. The cage is 1 5/8" chromolly tubing. The main hoop and door bars are 0.120 wall the rest is 0.065 wall.

 

From the welder, it goes to the paint shop.

 

Dan

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Guest Anonymous

A person doesn't necessarily need a cage, it'll work fine without it, it'll just be structurally stiffer with it. I found with just how much things flex back there just by putting in a rear strut bar brace. I have a rollbar tacked in which was squeeking against one of the side panels of the car over bumps, after putting the strut bar brace in, I noticed it pretty much stopped it from squeeking. Which means the rear strut towers without the brace were actually flexing in enough to cause my cars side panel to touch the closely fitting rollbar.

So the short answer, no, you don't need a rollbar to do the swap, but the stiffer you make it, the better it'll handle and it'll probably help a bit with the squeeks and rattles. Just a opinion to be sure.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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