So I was replacing the valve seals in my car....

[MazerRackham]

When this crackhead from my building came by and offered his help. He said I was doing it all wrong. He said that by removing the sprocket and timing chain like I did I put slack in the chain and it will never run right unless I remove the front crank case and re-adjust. This goes against all the valve seal replacement guides I've read on Ratsun, here, Chiltons and Haynes manuals. Was there fine print I never saw?

 

On a side note. I dropped one of the size 10 bolts that holds the cam in place into the front crank case. Stupid me I forgot to wedge a towel into the dark abyss. The dude said that it fell into the oil pan which gives me a huge ******* sigh of relief because I can just buy another size 10 bolt from McGuckins. Advice anyone?

 

Also, I managed to replace ONE VALVE SEAL before my 60 dollar valve spring compressor broke. ******* excellent.

[Xnke]

Did you wedge the timing chain?

 

If you didn't, then the crackhead is right...It can be done, but it's a real chore to align the crank, distributor, get the timing chain tensioner back in place, then get the cam timed correctly to the crank and then put the sprocket back on and get the chain on correctly.

[MazerRackham]

Did you wedge the timing chain?

 

If you didn't, then the crackhead is right...It can be done, but it's a real chore to align the crank, distributor, get the timing chain tensioner back in place, then get the cam timed correctly to the crank and then put the sprocket back on and get the chain on correctly.

 

I did. I used a PVC pipe like in this guide.

 

I don't know if I did it right. I just pushed the fucker as hard as I could in there.

[Zmanco]

I don't know if I did it right.

You'll know as soon as you try to put the sprocket back on.

Edited July 25, 2012 by Zmanco

[clutchdust]

Since there's no hydraulic followers on the cam, the most important thing I would suggest is make sure the engine rotates freely by hand before actually putting the starter to it. Even if you're off on the cam timing, at least you won't bend any valves. Just pull the plugs and rotate the crank with a socket. Hell, for that matter, you can rotate it off the cam since you won't have any compression (although this is not advisable). As long as you don't run into "clunk, clunk" manually, the worst that will happen is you have to go through the hassle of lining up the cam and crank to get the cam timing right.

Just don't do it again without lining up the timing marks before you start pulling **** apart.

As for the bolt, the guy should be right. The only concern is that it might be lodged between the pan and crank sprocket at first. Again, rolling over by hand should allow it to fall into the bottom of the pan. If it has gone or goes into the sump you could put 100000 miles on it without a problem.

Oh, and most major parts stores have a valve spring compressor in their loan-a-tool program. Should only cost you about $20 to rent and you get that refunded when you bring the tool back. Just what kind of spring compressor costs $60 anyway?

Edited July 25, 2012 by clutchdust

[MazerRackham]

Since there's no hydraulic followers on the cam, the most important thing I would suggest is make sure the engine rotates freely by hand before actually putting the starter to it. Even if you're off on the cam timing, at least you won't bend any valves. Just pull the plugs and rotate the crank with a socket. Hell, for that matter, you can rotate it off the cam since you won't have any compression (although this is not advisable). As long as you don't run into "clunk, clunk" manually, the worst that will happen is you have to go through the hassle of lining up the cam and crank to get the cam timing right.

Just don't do it again without lining up the timing marks before you start pulling **** apart.

As for the bolt, the guy should be right. The only concern is that it might be lodged between the pan and crank sprocket at first. Again, rolling over by hand should allow it to fall into the bottom of the pan. If it has gone or goes into the sump you could put 100000 miles on it without a problem.

Oh, and most major parts stores have a valve spring compressor in their loan-a-tool program. Should only cost you about $20 to rent and you get that refunded when you bring the tool back. Just what kind of spring compressor costs $60 anyway?

But I did line up the marks before i started pulling **** apart. Infact I marked them with a silver sharpie so I couldn't mess up.

 

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-59550-Adjustable-Overhead-Compressor/dp/B0019CQRUK/ref=sr_1_18?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1341729980&sr=1-18&keywords=overhead+valve+spring+compressor

 

^ This thing is utter poop. I'm gonna invest in a proper 70 dollar tool that does what the KD tool did before it got discontinued everywhere. Although I'm just going to pray that I never have to do this again. I love wrenching on my car. Just not working in cramped engine compartments.

[Fuzzydicerule]

let me guess, the clip that holds the little horseshoe that pushes on the retainer fell out? overhead valve spring compressors suck, all of them.

[MazerRackham]

let me guess, the clip that holds the little horseshoe that pushes on the retainer fell out? overhead valve spring compressors suck, all of them.

Worse one of the hooks that holds onto the springs while the compressor compresses(wtf??) snapped clean off... lol At first I thought one of the keepers shot clear across the parking area and I just starting yelling obscenities I'm sure everybody in Boulder heard. Then I looked at my valve spring compressor and saw that it was broken instead. tbh I would rather have a broken valve spring compressor than loosing a collet.