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'75 280Z --> who knows


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  • 6 months later...

Huzzah, marginal progress update below:

 

Here is the rear suspension that came out:
DSC_0191.JPG

 

here's what went back in (same stuff for now, only much cleaner after being sandblasted and repainted):

 

IMG_20130529_195357_794.jpg

 

Also, I'm all but done with my rear disc swap.  The route I went was a little fiddly, but I might have $50 in it if that.

 

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DSC_0841.JPGDSC_0840.JPG

 

My swap consists of essentially the entire rear brake assembly from a ~1983 200SX that I yoinked from pull-a-part, cleaned, and re-sealed.  

 

The brackets are offset like the usual "maxima brackets" but unlike those, these needed some modification (holes redrilled and center bore expanded).  I also chopped a side off in order to fit them without needing to pull the hub.  Easier to buy a bracket from a vendor or find the proper '84 maxima item, but I was working with what I had and wasn't in a hurry.

 

At this point I just need to purge the lines, hook up the hoses and bleed the calipers.  I also foresee the need for a little bracket modification in order to get the e-brake to work, but that'll come in time.

Edited by Wheelman13
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I've also been busy with the other car.  I chalked up a TT win on my second visit to CMP in February, and then made some progress lowering my personal best at Road Atlanta (even though it wasn't enough for a podium with a deep field of really fast cars/drivers).  

 

At Road Atlanta:

IMG_8281_zpsad9273a0.jpg

 

Some video of my quick lap on the weekend:

 

 

 

Currently, she's developed a taste for left-rear wheel bearings, so I'm in the midst of digging for the root cause there, but hope to have the car back up and in rude health soon.

Edited by Wheelman13
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It's far from the shortest route available, but it worked for me.

 

I had a little bit of a time separating the old brake hoses from the hardlines (they will forevermore need to be undone and re-done with large channel locks), but with that done, I was able to flush the lines with clean fluid, then attach the lines from the "new" calipers and bleed them.  They bled out fine with only a little rust flake coming out, and then seem to actuate normally.  'still going to be gentle on the initial test drive, but I also still need to reinstall the starter and get the tags renewed that I'll be reusing from my MR2 that I recently sold.  However, that's really about it before it'll be drivable again pending the next phase of shenanigans.

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  • 4 weeks later...

'Car made it around the neighborhood without incident and just a little squeak and pop from the new bushings settling in. 

 

Because it's decided to rain all summer here, i figured I would tackle the wipers next so the car would be more usable.  The motor is fine, but the linkage was frozen.  More specifically, the pivots were seized in their bushings.  I was able to twist, wiggle, and eventually able to use a large gear puller to remove one of the pivots, clean, lube, and reassemble.  The other one was just starting to break free and then exploded. :icon56:

 

So, for reference:  Pivots = cheap pot aluminum.

 

On a related note, the part numbers for the Pivots are 28870E4600 (drivers side), and 28880E4100 (passenger side).

 

It still needs a valve adjustment.

 

I think once I get that taken care of it may be time for a little fun shopping for some springs and wheels so I can discard my '80's-spec black center mesh 14"s, and get this thing at least sitting the way I'd like it.

 

Right now I'm somewhere between the ubiquitous Rota (Wat' knock-off), and the stupid-cheap, but decent-looking XXRs.  This probably won't see a track any time very soon, so I'm not too worried about exploding wheels.  That said, I do want to fit real tires on it so it will be fun to autocross....Some bigger swaybars may also happen...at least in the front.

Edited by Wheelman13
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This is looking great.  What brake brackets are those that you'd used. They look like they were modified.   Don't worry too much about the lifter tapping noise.  All the L28 engines aside from those with the P90A hydraulic head make some ticking noise while running.  it's normal, and due to the height of the cam lobes. so unless the noise is really loud you probably don't have to change anything...

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This is looking great.  What brake brackets are those that you'd used. They look like they were modified.   Don't worry too much about the lifter tapping noise.  All the L28 engines aside from those with the P90A hydraulic head make some ticking noise while running.  it's normal, and due to the height of the cam lobes. so unless the noise is really loud you probably don't have to change anything...

Thanks!

 

Those brackets came off of an 1983 200SX along with the calipers.  They have the same offset as the "correct" Maxima brackets, but the center bore and bolt pattern is different.  I had the bore enlarged and two of the 3 bolt holes are in re-drilled locations.  Then I cut a corner off so I could slip them on without pulling the hub.  In hindsight, for the trouble, I'd probably just buy the aftermarket brackets from a vendor.  I just happened to know a machinist with some extra time on his hands.

 

I'm used to a little lifter noise, and this seems a little loud.  Not scary-loud, but louder than I'd expect.  I'm probably jaded with quiet-running cars, but I'll at least check the clearances cold to see if anything seems particularly off before I go horsing around with it much.

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Just watched your track videos... Well done man... Greatly enjoyed them!

 

Zcar is coming right along!

Mike

 

Thanks much, glad I could help kill some time.  

 

I need to get back out to a track, but the NSX has been having some electrical gremlins.  Typical Honda FI main relay issue and I think an open wire to a blinker of all things :icon56: .  I've nearly got them sorted again, but my time's been getting stretched thin.

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In other local news, I found someone willing to part me out some wiper linkage so I can get that trivial (but very necessary in the southeast) item put to bed.  

I also picked up some S12W calipers from the local pull-a-part over the weekend.  So, I went looking for wiper pivots and came back with large brake calipers.  These things are huge.  part of me wants to test fit them on the other car just to see.....  

 

Now I'll just need some 300ZX rotors and a spacer to finish the swap.  

 

The only thing that would keep me from going that route is if I managed to find a way to piece together a front mount rotor setup.  I think I've found some OE rotors from Honda and Toyota that would probably fit over the hub, and onto the lugs, the question then would remain about a caliper that would have the proper offset from the hub.

 

For the record, having to pull the hub to replace a brake rotor is possibly the dumbest "feature" I've ever seen on a car.  The wear item with the shortest life should come first in the order of dis-assembly.  I love the Z, but yeah....I don't want to have to dick around with a slide hammer every time this happens at the track:

 

DSC_0329_zpsfef425f3.jpg

 

Moving on, I'm also starting to more seriously look for some wheels.

 

The plan (for now) is to lower the car on some ST springs.  ST because the Eibachs and Tanabes are progressive (F-that), and apparently Tokico's are hard to get ahold of these days(?).  Those will get coupled with a fat-ish front swaybar, maybe adjustable if I can find one, but I'm not overly attached to that.

 

Wheel-wise.  I think I've talked myself into 16s.  I don't want 15s for aesthetic reasons, and don't really want to spend the money on 17" tires (wheels are 1 time and hold some residual, tires add up).  

I'm a bit torn here between pseudo-retro and modern.

 

  • The safe money would be on one of the Wat' -looking knock-offs:  Rota RB/RB-R or XXR 713 (since there is a budget here).  
  • That said, I love the shape of the Advans on my other car, and something like an XXR 530 or 535 would deliver in that department.  Those last two would also make the wheel visually larger on the car since the spokes come all the way to the lip.  I'm not sure how the 535 would look with the 5-spoke design, but I'm pretty sure the 530 would look awesome.

Tire-wise, it looks like the typical solution is 225/50/16 with some potential for rubbing the outer fender lip with a 0 offset if the car is lowered.  That said, the tire I want also comes in a 225/45/16 which might help with clearance a bit.

 

I wish I could talk some Honda guy with a civic hella-flushed on XXRs into letting me test fit a wheel to see.

Edited by Wheelman13
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  • 8 months later...

Also, I finished (entirely I think) with the suspension and brakes.
 

For the suspension, I opted for the Cosmis Racing pseudo-coilover and some standard-issue KYB inserts.  I do have bump stops installed, although I get the feeling I'm going to end up sectioning the struts once it's on the ground and drive-able.  However, I am going to *try* it as-is, just to see.  I figure the way I have it, the only thing I have to hurt are my kidneys.

Here they are along with my complete S12W brake swap up front:

IMG_20140105_181155_344.jpg

 

Dust shields, and after being trimmed, sand blasted, and painted.  Steering linkage after the same, and LCAs with fresh poly bushings as well:

IMG_20131211_181113_973.jpg

 

...aaand the Wilwood 1" Master Cylinder:

IMG_20140406_163143_392.jpg

Edited by Wheelman13
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Last, but not least, I also picked some wheels.  After much deliberation, I splashed for some 17x8 RB-Rs in +4 offset.  I expect to need to roll the rear fenders a bit, but I'm ok with that.  The body is hardly immaculate at this point and I'd rather get this bit done before it becomes so and I feel bad doing it.

Dunno why "kids" these days like to put things on the lip for reference, but I figured I'd get with the times:

IMG_20131211_172643_250.jpg

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Right now, I'm down to needing steering rack boots (in the mail from TheZStore), installing my new outer tie rods, flushing the brakes, and a quick alignment away from it being driveable again......well along with addressing any rubbing issues with the new wheels/tires.  

After that, on to bumpers, grille, air dam, and a little interior work.

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  • 1 month later...

Ok, rack boots, tie rods, and such addressed.  Brakes flushed.  Swaybar installed....though i'm going to have to drill/re-tap/helicoil one of the swaybar bracket bolt holes.  It was stripped when I got to it.  

That said......

Obligatory "sitting on the ground" picture:
IMG_20140427_144108_990.jpg

UN-fortunately, and somewhat as I expected, it's also sitting directly on the bump stops, lol.  So, I'll probably go ahead and section them.  Too bad, since I just sold a set of MR2 shocks :(

I did drive it around the neighborhood after a garage, tape-on-the-floor + plum bob front end alignment and it steers and stops MUCH better than before, although i think the brake booster is struggling a bit if I'm honest.  

 

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