Mikelly Posted December 29, 2012 Author Share Posted December 29, 2012 Based on searching the part number on this site, the headers will apparently need to be modified. How much, we'll see. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted January 1, 2013 Author Share Posted January 1, 2013 (edited) Further update... I'll be re-using my older block huggers for now. Not going to spend any more time and money developing the existing platform beyond the current setup. I'm just going to weld the 3 bolt flanges together. I'll build the LS1 over the spring/summer and have it ready by next winter to go in. The 2147 hookers don't clear on the left as Rags and Tedder said above. If I get really adventurous over the spring/summer MAYBE I'll buy a header tube kit and make my own, but I've got bigger fish to fry, so I'm probably not going to waste the time. Mike Edited January 1, 2013 by Mikelly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 Mike: Who made your older block hugger headers? I purchased Sanderson block huggers CC178 which are 1 7/8" primaries. These interfere with the steering shaft for the manual rack. Entertained going to Subaru power steering rack with modified front cross-member to accomodate same. Just went out to look over my 1971 240Z with 383 stroker installed. I am using an Electromotive ignition and fuel injection system which has a 7" toothed wheel between the crank pulley and balancer. There is only 1/4" clearance between this wheel and the Datsun rack. The Sabura rack, which I have, is considerably thicker. This means that I must retain the Datsun manual steering even with a 6" engine balancer. The next smaller toothed wheel is 6" in diameter. Quite likely that the magnetic pickup for the toothed wheel will not work with 6" balancer and 6" inch toothed (Crank Timing) wheel. Will have to go with block hugger headers with 1 5/8" primaries wherein the steering shaft will clear these smaller headers. In the longer term, I will also buy a header tube kit with fabbed head flange and form a custom block hugger set of headers which will also clear the steering shaft but will flow better than the 1 5/8" block hugger headers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share Posted January 2, 2013 These are some no-name brand units I found on ebay about 3 years ago. They are 1 5/8th primary stainless units. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SeattleDad Posted January 18, 2013 Share Posted January 18, 2013 I also did a bunch of research. I have a SBC that was not installed using the JTR manual. The owner who did it put the engine a little further forward and the oil pan rests on the crossmember. My distributor is inches away from the firewall. What this did though was to make the interference issue with the steering linkage and headers even worse. The prior owner had fenderwell headers and chopped out huge holes in the inner fender well ... dont even get me started about the giant holes. I went to block huggers. I initially got flowtech headers and they did not work the flange lined up right with the linkage. I then found Hedman tight toobs. They are WAY thinner using a flat connection scheme instead of the circular one (when you see them it will make sense). I had to do some grining on the flange but there was still plenty to get an exhaust seal. They are by far the best most low profile option for the clearance issue. A+++ They are not ceramic coated so I had to remove the paint and coat them myself.... getting the paint of was a pain even with stripper. If someone really cares I did take pictures of the headers next to each other the difference is large. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted January 19, 2013 Share Posted January 19, 2013 After abondoning the Sanderson CC178 headers, ordered Stainless Steel block hugger headers from KMJ(ent.com) on Ebay. WOW, these are much better quality than the sanderson headers. Amazing quality! Reconfigured the down pipes from the stainless steel headers. Highly recommend these headers. These headers and down pipes will be wrapped to contain the heat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted January 19, 2013 Author Share Posted January 19, 2013 KMJ has impressed me bigtime with their parts. That oilpan I got from them is damned impressive. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peej410 Posted January 28, 2013 Share Posted January 28, 2013 I started the process of custom headers... I am still wondering what possessed me to take on something like this literally right after finishing my suspension swap, http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/105513-e36-m3-suspension-in-a-240z/?p=1036710 I looked quick but couldnt figure out who was the mod for the suspension forum. I would like to convert my thread into a build thread if possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stock600 Posted September 5, 2013 Share Posted September 5, 2013 Mike: Who made your older block hugger headers? I purchased Sanderson block huggers CC178 which are 1 7/8" primaries. These interfere with the steering shaft for the manual rack. Entertained going to Subaru power steering rack with modified front cross-member to accomodate same. Just went out to look over my 1971 240Z with 383 stroker installed. I am using an Electromotive ignition and fuel injection system which has a 7" toothed wheel between the crank pulley and balancer. There is only 1/4" clearance between this wheel and the Datsun rack. The Sabura rack, which I have, is considerably thicker. This means that I must retain the Datsun manual steering even with a 6" engine balancer. The next smaller toothed wheel is 6" in diameter. Quite likely that the magnetic pickup for the toothed wheel will not work with 6" balancer and 6" inch toothed (Crank Timing) wheel. Will have to go with block hugger headers with 1 5/8" primaries wherein the steering shaft will clear these smaller headers. In the longer term, I will also buy a header tube kit with fabbed head flange and form a custom block hugger set of headers which will also clear the steering shaft but will flow better than the 1 5/8" block hugger headers. Man, I hate to hear this you probably tried them from my posts. Their on my car and fit really nice. I did have to alter the steering shaft a bit and put it in a heim joint to further stiffen it, but they fit great and I feel flow super for a shorty header. Car runs 5.30's with 1.26 60's so not to bad. I did just order a set of full CNC AFR's and another blower pulley that's going to take my blower drive from 31% over to 62% over soo Im re looking my header thing now just to see if I can further improve on it with longer primarys. Ive also since gutted my inner fenders and brought my cage out of the cab and tied it into the front of the chassis. So Im now looking at several of the "Over the fender style Modified dirt raceing headers in 1 7/8" The plan is to swap the heads over and reinstall blower with new pulley but leave headers off, load it in trailer and take it to a couple dirt racing places to see what they have in stock that I can carry out and try right on the car. I want them to come straight off the head back a bit then down behind the front tires then out the bottom of the front fenders as my CC1 7/8 do now. Ryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted September 9, 2013 Share Posted September 9, 2013 Ryan: I don't think there are better flowing cylinder heads than the AFR's. Understand rerouting the steering shaft and using the CC178 headers. I have been thinking about making my own headers by purchasing header flanges a kit of 2 inch elbows. I will fab the headers much like the rams horn headers yet pay close attention to very good exhuast flow maximum area into the 3 inch collector flange. Then into 3 inch header pipe to two bullet type mufflers to knock of the higher frequencies in the exhaust sound. Then back to a "Y" and single pipe to the rear muffler. Sure would be nice to see what you come up with in PICTURES! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rayaapp2 Posted September 11, 2013 Share Posted September 11, 2013 I am using the Hooker headers as well. My original set had removable collectors. I bought Mike Kellys set which is the modern version with a few updates. They fit better than the originals, but I cut the incorperated collectors off and used my old school slip on collectors... Which worked great and there was no extra fussing other than the cutting of the collector at the welds. I am replacing my transmission right now and because the collector slips off and I have a removable mid pipe the service is a breeze! I have plenty of room for a kick out pan, but I am not currently running one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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