Dershum Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 Hey guys, I'm working on rebuilding my front suspension (going to start the rears as soon as I get the fronts torn down), and wanted some opinions on how serviceable this strut mount insulator is. It seems relatively sound, but the bearing just flopped right out of it when I turned it over and the rubber "boot" seems to be getting pretty worn. I'm not a terribly good judge of how much wear on these sorts of thing is acceptable, and I'd rather not drop $240 on a set of four of them if I don't have to. Here are some pics of one of them. They're all of a similar wear level. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 You'd have to light your car on fire to hurt one of those. Put the bearing back in it and run it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dershum Posted September 3, 2012 Author Share Posted September 3, 2012 You'd have to light your car on fire to hurt one of those. Put the bearing back in it and run it. I may have to try that... Seriously though, thanks for the feedback! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 I was actually serious. The way to remove the stock bushings when/if changing to polyurethane is to burn the old ones out with a torch. They are super durable, even at 40 years old. So durable, in fact, that I discourage folks from do a polyurethane "upgrade." Not worth the trouble, and it's a lot of trouble. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
calpoly-z Posted September 3, 2012 Share Posted September 3, 2012 I have had the rubber rip apart from having the car up on jack stands with the suspension hanging for an extended period of time. So not indestructible, but as long as the wheels stay on the ground most of the time you should be fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dershum Posted September 4, 2012 Author Share Posted September 4, 2012 I was actually serious. The way to remove the stock bushings when/if changing to polyurethane is to burn the old ones out with a torch. They are super durable, even at 40 years old. So durable, in fact, that I discourage folks from do a polyurethane "upgrade." Not worth the trouble, and it's a lot of trouble. I've already done a chunk of the upgrades, but since I've got everything pretty much torn apart, I figured it was worth the effort. And I have to admit burning the rubber bushings out of the front LCA's was kind of fun. I'm looking forward to the rears...not the spindle-pin so much tho. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted September 4, 2012 Share Posted September 4, 2012 I usually discourage folks from removing the spindle pins to burn and hand saw out the outer LCA bushings because it is such a PITA for no real reward other than bragging rights. If you wind up trying to do this job anyway, I highly recommend the spindle pin puller loaner program on this website. I've done it with and without the puller and the puller really helps. Without the puller, just go ahead and order new spindle pins in advance cause you're gonna ruin them. I have heard that you can just replace the spindle pin with a long 5/8" grade 8 bolt, which is what I plan to try next time I have to do that job. Pollish and anti-seize the heck out of whatever you put back in there. Even with the spindle puller I'd rather get kicked in the nuts about 20 times than do that job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenState Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 (edited) I usually discourage folks from removing the spindle pins to burn and hand saw out the outer LCA bushings because it is such a PITA for no real reward other than bragging rights. If you wind up trying to do this job anyway, I highly recommend the spindle pin puller loaner program on this website. I've done it with and without the puller and the puller really helps. Without the puller, just go ahead and order new spindle pins in advance cause you're gonna ruin them. I have heard that you can just replace the spindle pin with a long 5/8" grade 8 bolt, which is what I plan to try next time I have to do that job. Pollish and anti-seize the heck out of whatever you put back in there. Even with the spindle puller I'd rather get kicked in the nuts about 20 times than do that job. Bolts. Are. Awesome. Spindle. Pins. Suck. It takes a LOT of hammering to mushroom a grade 8 bolt like that... Edited September 5, 2012 by GreenState Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin.pk Posted September 5, 2012 Share Posted September 5, 2012 I wouldn't say they are indestructible. I had the same thing as calpoly-z happen. I went to tighten lugs on the rear passenger side and the whole strut assembly came down. The rubber tore apart with a fairly minimal amount of torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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