calpoly-z

Looking to buy a front wheel hub for a 280Z. Went to replace front wheel bearings and discovered that the inner race no longer seats snugly on one of my hubs. Seems some movement still allowed even when a new race is seated in place. If anyone has a spare they'd be willing to sell, I would appreciate it. Thanks

I did some powdercoating in college. Did a bunch of Z parts and few other misc things. Bought an Eastwood kit and a toaster oven to start out, then found a cheap oven on craigslist. The inside of the oven wasn't very large though, so to do things like valve covers we made an insulated cover that fit over the opened door and sealed up to the oven. Worked really well and doubled the size of our baking area. The trick to good powder coating though, is more about having really clean parts. For coating old car parts, a media blaster is an absolute must. We made a cheap blast cabinet too with a HF blast gun and a large clear rubbermaid container. Far from pretty, but surprisingly functional. The IR lamp may work for you, but I think it would be pretty difficult to make sure the powder was cured all over the entire piece and I think you'd wind up having to move it a lot and curing parts would take 5 times as long as in an oven. Good luck with whatever method you go with. I would like to get back into powdercoating when I have the space again.

That yellow tank is a vacuum reservoir. Much of the hvac system on 280z is vacuum actuated. That tank helped maintained vacuum on those lines while under full throttle and other low vacuum situations.

I'm running an L28ET with dished pistons overbored 0.030", and a slightly shaved P90. Compression is probably in the high 7's. If your L28 is around 8.3CR then I think you'll be good. Run conservative timing in boost and keep boost pressures reasonable and enjoy!

My wife drove an automatic G37 sedan for a while (I think an 09). All sedans are certainly not AWD, as hers was RWD. It was great car and we had no issues at all with it. She wanted more space so traded it in on new 4Runner (which personally I don't like at all, but she does...) She only put about 15-20k on it before trading it in, but never really had any issues with it other than a minor transmission hiccup. This actually led to part of the reason she wanted to trade it in. Where we live, the closest Infinity dealer is about 5hrs away, and the Nissan dealer here didn't know what they were doing with this car. She ended up having to take it to Austin to get the trans fixed (was only a programming issue). She had a base model, but I would spring for the S, if only for the way better front seats (the S seats have the thigh extenders and were a lot firmer/ comfortable to me).

GRT-TBO-020 Garrett GT3071R Turbo Ball Bearing Turbo Turbin_AR: 63 Select_Turbine_Housing_Style: T3_T4_Style_Dropin_Replacement Compressor_Hsg_Style: 300inchCompacdtHousing The above is what I'm running. I bought a compact cold side, so no spacer was needed to prevent hitting the stock exhaust manifold, . Running the "utimate wastegate" that ATP sells as well. No issues with boost creep. I did a lot of research and looking at compressor maps before buying a turbo and I thought this turbo fit the L28 quite well. And now after driving it a bit I'm still very pleased with my choice. If you're worried about compression being too high, just throw a thick headgasket on to drop the static CR down a bit. I can't comment on the E85. I'm stuck running 91 octane out here in the West Texas desert.

I'm running a GT3071 with a T3 .63AR on my L28ET. Not sure what your hotside is, but I imagine we're fairly similar in size. What AR exhaust housing do you have? I find the turbo to work great with my engine. Boost starts to build around 2500 and I hit the 8PSI i'm currently running by 3000-3200. I'm still tuning so haven't upped the boost yet, but I think it feels great even at just 8PSI. Personally I'd go for it, especially if you're capable of the fab work needed.

Can you fit the stock style injector seals on the injector tip? I'm running some 11mm EV14 injectors, and I had to swap the lower o-rings for 14mm, and use the stock injector seals in order to get a good seal at the manifold. Seems to be working pretty well, but I only have about 100 miles since installed.

Silicon Intakes has an adapter that allows a threaded bung to be placed in a silicone or rubber coupler. I bought one of these and have my IAT mounted in the 45 deg elbow that connects my intercooler pipes to the TB. Seems to work pretty well and heat soak is no longer an issue, like when I had it tapped in the manifold.

That is pretty interesting. I can't help you with mounting, but I am very interested to see how well it works out for you. Does the quality seem to be pretty good? Can you provide any more pictures of how it fits?

Lazy is right...Especially when it comes to online reviews. Suppose I can throw in my experience with this kit now. I've got about 50 miles on these brakes now. I am yet to stress them much at all short of a little driving around the neighborhood trying to lock up my tires to get the bias ballparked. Front brakes are the bolt on Toyota 4 pot without the vented rotors currently. Seems silly to have these massive rear rotors in comparison to the fronts, but that just means I need a front brake upgrade, right??!! So far I've been very pleased. Pedal feels great, and the car stops well. Can't wait for the weather to drop back below hundred in a couple months so I can actually start driving the car on a regular basis... The only complaint I can come up with at the moment is that the parking brake (which works well mind you) requires a lot more throw to engage than the stock one (which only took about 3-4 clicks) even after me tightening it up. I cant seem to get it less than 8-10 clicks before full engagement. Not a huge deal as I'm thrilled to have a new cable and functional parking brake, where many of the other kits required eliminating it or going with some workaround that didn't seem very practical or thought out. Installation was fairly straightforward. I used the centering ring and drilled my own holes with a drill press. Ended up having to take a die grinder to a couple of the holes to get everything to fit over wheel studs and the centering ring. Worked out in the end though. I went bottom shelf for the rotors and calipers, since I have no intention (really it's a lack of opportunity...stuck in frickin' West Texas 5 hrs from anywhere...arghh) at the moment to do any track time with the car and I cant complain yet. Rock Auto made the parts purchases very reasonable. All in all, I fully endorse this kit. Way to go Nigel!!!

I just bought a set of these off someone on the forum. My set just has the rod snapped off flush with the Mirror housing.

I have 16x8's with 0 offset running 225/50 without any issues. Non-flared car, with rolled fender lips, running Eibach springs as well.

I also have a stock T3 and stainless downpipe available if things don't work out with Chaos. Mine's not rebuilt, but has minimal shaft play and worked well when removed for an upgrade.

Check out Doug DeMuro on Jalopnik. He is importing a 1990 GT-R and documenting the whole process. http://jalopnik.com/i-m-importing-a-1990-nissan-skyline-gt-r-from-japan-1680939525 He posts his email in some of the comments and seems pretty approachable so you might be able to contact him and see how things are going so far in his process.

I agree with Dexter72. I had mine in the manifold where the cold start injector was for many years. I always had issues with hot starts running rough due to the IAT sensor heat soaking in the manifold. Now to be fair, it usually only ran rough for about a minute or two until I could get cooler air flowing through the manifold to get a more accurate air temp reading. I moved it to just in front of the throttle body now and is mounted in the silicone elbow. I don't have many miles since doing this (car has been on stands for last year), but I saw some improvement the few times I did hot start it.

I have Eibach/KYB's on my 280Z. Its hard to tell looking at pics, but I think my front springs are a bit shorter than the ones shown. I do know that I have my springs ziptied to the perches because at full droop the front springs are not compressed at all and would be loose on the spring perch. My front ride height is a bit lower than yours, but then I also have a heavy turbo/intercooler setup that may be adding more weight up front.

I had them on my 370Z until I sold the car. I liked them a ton better than the factory tires. Did a lot of research at that point (19" wheels, so tires were very expensive) and the Conti DW always seemed to be near the top of the performance/noise/value categories. I haven't checked to see if they make the size I currently need for my 280Z, but if they do, I will likely go with them again. I expect I will have to drop down to the DWS to get the size I need though.

I just ordered mine from Motorsport Auto, thinking I was getting the 280zx style one that does not need to be peened. It is interchangeable from my research. I ended up receiving the earlier style nuts unfortunately. Courtesy Nissan has the 280zx style one, but shipping was outrageous so I ordered from MSA. Will deal with what I have for now.

I'm just using a cheap little hold down that grabs the little lip at the base of the battery. Probably not secure enough for racing, but seems to work fine around town. These can be picked up at most auto parts stores.

I know the speed hut gauges I have mounted in my dash were very thin. At least as thin as that Innovate gauge if not thinner. Would likely save you a lot of hassle to just make the pod as large as you can to fit the 280z dash and just let people know at there are limitations in regards to depth of gauge that can be used. Can't please everyone. Great job on your work so far.

I'm looking for a passenger side rear strut housing. Just a plain housing without stub axles or a brake drum plate is fine. My spindle pin seems to have completely seized in place. I'm hoping to attempt removal with a press in the next day or two, but wanted to get the search going in case this proves to not work either. I do not need control arms either just the stripped strut housing. Willing to buy both if necessary, but I only really need the passenger side one. There are non available in a scrap yard that I've seen around here. Will be in Houston around the holidays if someone has one there and can meet up. Thanks in advance

The steel calipers showed up last night. I've got maybe 2-3mm of clearance, but they do fit with my wheels. Looking forward to finishing up my install this weekend. Doubt I'll be driving it anytime soon though to set up F/R balance and get any driving impressions. Super pleased with the quality of the kit though. The parking cable is a PITA to install, but then I was too lazy to pull exhaust or driveshaft to gain better access. A set of extended-reach, longnose, curved tip needle-nose pliers was the only reason I was able to do it without removing parts. These big beautiful brakes in the back really make me want to upgrade my fronts now from the non-vented toyota setup I've had installed for the last 10 years or so. No real reason to do so at this point other than aesthetics. Looks a little funny having bigger rotors in the back

Looks like some awesome kit...but WOW are they proud of it. I love that I could control my Vintage Air with a dash mounted tablet, but that requires 2 more modules...so $1k for basic system, $500 for HVAC interface and another $400 for the tablet/smartphone interface puts the system at nearly $2k. Super cool stuff, but a bit out of reach. Hopefully companies continue to innovate in this field and costs come down a bit in the future.

Great idea! Looking forward to seeing how this progresses.