ihiryu Posted September 28, 2012 Share Posted September 28, 2012 So after owning my S30 for three weeks now, after much internal debating, I've decided to go RB20. Why? Well fits with stock engine and transmission mounts, and stock driveshaft saved me virtually $1000.00 bucks right off the back. Plus, I'd rather have a super high redline (used to have a few S2000's). My first step was originally the chassis, so my stock 76 280z got the treatment via MSA. I bought their "JDM kit" which consists of the front valence, rear wing, and fender flares. I went ahead and purchased the head light buckets, along with the Dapper Light HID kit. Got this all installed then purchased the Datsun Competition hood scoop, also from MSA. A week later, my stuff from Tokico showed up, so new struts and lowering springs went in, cut the front spring a coil, and installed the front bump steer kit from MSA. I've got the camber bushings, but have yet to put them in. So I got the motor from ALN JDM Auto Motors in Irving, TX. I drove down there and picked it up. Bought the motor for about $1300.00, the nicest person I've met, definitely worth doing business again. Price was a little high considering it's an RB20, but I'd much rather have someone decently local to me, then having the motor shipped. Missing MAF, and the ECU case is rusty (kinda worried here). So Z32 MAF + SAFC will easily fix that. After some searching came across Pat1's oil pans (and super duper easy sounding wiring guide), and just received it today. $540.00 some odd dollars well spent. I bought the upper and lower gasket kit from Cometic, which includes all the gaskets, I bought the water pump and misc timing tensioners and pulleys from Z1 Motorsports. Gates racing timing belt, Exedy OEM replacement 350Z clutch, MSD fuel pump, came from Options Auto Salon. Today, I just ordered some stuff off of eBay I couldn't really find elsewhere. I bought the turbo exhaust elbow with "screamer" pipe (wastegate pipe isn't hooked up to the rest of the exhaust), downpipe that will have to get modified to our S30 chassis, and FMIC with replica BOV. I'm waiting for the timing belt stuff to make it here before I start stripping the motor. My main concerns are radiator, fans, and A/C. I think I'll just go with Taurus fans (cheap and easy), and wiring it via relays to stay on with Key on. Since I almost always drive with the A/C on, I don't think it'll be a problem. Sorry for no pics just really excited! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3VO 3VOM Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Le me be first to say congratulations on the start of the project! Looking forward to seeing more. I've done the same thing. RB20 into a '76 280Z. I went a little crazy though in mine: RB26 intake and ITB's and RB25 internals little pricey. But all in all its a good swap. Put some 440's in there and she screams. If you want A/C though don't slam your car to the ground. Mine is running sectioned struts and ground control coilovers spun all the way down and I only have about 2 inches until the chassis is on the ground. The problem I had in trying to add A/C was that (at least with my mckinney mounts. cant speak for the stock mounts. I'd assume they would be about the same) the stock bracket for the A/C hangs down exactly where the front sway bar is. So unless you get a custom bar, it is in the way. I thought I could just add a 1 inch spacer in to space the bar down out of the way of the bracket, and if the car wasn't slammed I'd be good. The only problem is that the bar gets spaced down so far that it then hits the lower a-arm. Eventually I'll switch to a custom bar, but for now I manage. Just dont drive it when it's too hot out. Ha. Nice to see others doing the 20 swap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted September 30, 2012 Author Share Posted September 30, 2012 Thanks for the response, always good to hear from others that have already done the swap. I wonder if I can just modify a bracket to get it to bring it up. Adding a spacer would mean that I would have to make end links (which would would probably much easier). Are you referring to the RB26 injectors? If so did you use the resistor pack? Also what management are you using?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3VO 3VOM Posted September 30, 2012 Share Posted September 30, 2012 Yeah. I was just going to add the spacer on the bar and then make end links but im too low. So eventually ill go custom bar. But for now i manage. That's what im running. with a z32 maf, the itb's and 25 turbo. Its a carl H tuned ecu.9 You need to run a resistor or youll fry the ecu. Im using one from an acura legend. You can use the stock rb26 one, but the legend one is easy to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted October 1, 2012 Author Share Posted October 1, 2012 First I've heard of Carl H, just sent him a PM over a NICO. For now I'll just add a Z32 MAF and SAFC since I don't have a RB20 MAF. Once I score some injectors and upgrade the turbo then I'll get my ECU tuned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3VO 3VOM Posted October 1, 2012 Share Posted October 1, 2012 Carl H tunes are awesome. They work very well once you have everything. I think you have the right idea; wait to get all the parts then get the tune. I would say rock the z32 because it has future potential. The 20 MAF maxes kind of quick. But if you find yourself in need of a 20 MAF i have a mint one id sell you. will the safc account for the z32 maf? Because i know with just the stock ecu, the z32 maf makes it run lean. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted October 1, 2012 Author Share Posted October 1, 2012 Awesome, you wouldn't have a spare ECU too would ya? My ecu has some surface rust, so I don't know what the guts of it look like. Yes the SAFC will account for the Z32 MAF. The SAFC has MAF settings for different MAF's for different cars. If you download the manual you'll see a section called "MAF Settings" which allow you to insert numbers into two columns. Each number is for a different MAF. So on my 240SX (with KA) the input for the MAF was 2, and for the Z32 MAF I would have 5 set on the output. Pretty nifty. I had a lot of good luck with the SAFC and JWT ECU in my S14. The biggest thing is I hate is downtime, so I guess once I get all my upgrades, then I'll send a spare ecu into Carl to do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 Whoo, got a lot done today. Pulled the motor apart to install: 350Z clutch, all external seals, head gasket, water pump, timing belt kit, new spark plugs. Found out my turbo is broke....but not in the normal sense of broken. The T3 flange straight broke off.... Turbo is at the welder, he doesn't think it'll hold for very long. Hopefully it'll last long enough for my to putt around in to break in the clutch while I find a RB25 turbo. Intercooler, O2 dump, and downpipe should be here soon. And I'm still waiting on my dang fender mirrors. It's the first thing I ordered, and seems to be the last thing I'll get.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feifongwong3 Posted October 2, 2012 Share Posted October 2, 2012 Huzzah! Congrats on your choice of RB engine sir. Check out skylines Australia for a bit of rb love. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted October 14, 2012 Author Share Posted October 14, 2012 Well, here's an update. Went ahead and just bought a Turbonetics T3/T4 turbo, bought an eBay manifold off from a guy from Zilvia for a song. I've already got a wastegate from one of my other builds. So all I'm waiting for now is to start mocking everything together and figure out the oil lines. Oh, and my five bolt to V band adapter, and my other MAF. I bought another ECU since mine was a little suspect, and my motor set didn't come with a MAF, so I went ahead and bought a N60 and N62 from another guy off of Zilvia. I've also gotten in contact with Carl H who does ROM tunes. So here's my two options: 1) Install everything, pray that my both my ECUs are good, and install the N60 to get the car running. 2) Send off both ECU's to Carl H, wait for them to return (since I don't know if one of them is good or bad) with the GTR Injectors, and it'll be all tuned and ready to go. I think I'm going to go with Option 2 since I'm deathly afraid that only one of my ECU's are good, and that'll mean that my car will have down time waiting for ECU to return. Another thing also is I'm super anxious to get the car running with the RB, but it runs now, and it's not a big deal I guess, but I'm waiting on a few MISC pieces anyway. Every day I see my 20 just sitting there,a nd it's like a huge tease ha ha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 Forgive me if the picture size is too large, I tried to find a way to edit them on photobucket with no luck So this is the RB when I first got it back to the shop This is the OE 350Z clutch to install with the RB20 flywheel Pat1's awesome oil pan Head off for the new head gasket (OEM) Broke turbo How the engine sits, the factory turbo manifold is on, I'll get pics with the new mani after I get it modified for the new wastegate. So now here's a few pics of "WTF is this, and do I need it?" Item number 1 The white thing next to the coil. It's attached to the coil itself also. Item number 2 This little doodad, it's attached to the chassis right next to the coil Item number 3 This is by the clutch slave cylinder, the factory EFI harness attaches to it (there's another one behind it). I think it's a resistor box. Item number 4 This looks like a vacuum line, but it wasn't attached to anything, it could also be the windshield wiper squirter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3VO 3VOM Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 (edited) double post Edited November 1, 2012 by R3VO 3VOM Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
R3VO 3VOM Posted November 1, 2012 Share Posted November 1, 2012 Item 3 is the stock resistor. Itll come out when you take the stock harness out. Item 4 looks like the line for the washer squirters. Looks just like mine. All hard and broke. Ha. Remember when you drop the engine in to rewire the voltage regulator (on the passenger side) for the rb alternator. (Stock is external voltage regulator and rb is internal) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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