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About R3VO 3VOM

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    Always Here
  • Birthday 11/24/1992

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    Charlotte, NC

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  1. Wheels were built by Pine Engineering out of NZ. With the exchange rate they were cheaper than you'd think (not $600 cheap but you get my point). Tires I'm running 235/50/15 Toyo R888 fronts and 275/50/15 Nitto NT555R.
  2. This thread may get moved because this is kind of a Want to buy. But are you sure those are 3 piece? Every set of Epsilons I've seen (whopping 2 so I'm no expert on them) were 3 piece welded (so actually 2 piece). So replacing lips isn't something you can easily do in your garage. Either way check out Pine Engineering in New Zealand. Really good group of guys. I've had them do 2 15x12 XR4 Lonchamps for me before and having them do 2 15x11's to match now. They stock lips in 15" sizes. They won't be cheap because redoing wheels is not cheap by any means. But they will most likely be
  3. First time out with the new rear setup. Now 15x12 -51. I'm now looking for some 16" BBS to use the fronts to run turbofan covers with. Anyone have a pair?
  4. I'm not far behind you with mine. Just ordered new tires tonight. 17x10 -3 17x11.5 -22. Hard to find 4x114.3 pattern.
  5. Car runs good for once. Surprised.

  6. Bit of an update. Transmission drives awesome. Love being able to shift gears. The Hurst shifter is amazing. The .73 overdrive is great cruising down the highway. Dropped the engine RPM a lot. Not as good as the .64 T5 ratio but I'll take it over the 1:1. I've said it before and I will say it again: first gear is basically useless. I start in second half the time because it's not even worth being in first and shifting to second within 3 feet of starting off. It did develop a slight leak out of the 1-2 shift shaft after a few drives so pulled the car back in and pulled the cover to fix it
  7. Well the transmission is in. I can't say that it was an easy road to travel but I finished it. Made the first drive yesterday. Few small kinks to work out but none of them are with the transmission. I changed to a traditional clutch fork and external slave cylinder setup because even after calling the manufacture I still could not get all of the air to bleed out of the hydraulic throw out bearing. It wouldn't move to release the clutch. And after reading a lot of reviews on all various brands of hydraulic throw out bearing I decided that if it didn't work I would be going with a traditi
  8. Interested as well. I've been debating adapting an S13 system before but I'm worried the S13 front bag size wont fit in the Z shock tower. So a kit would be nice. I want the low look but I can't stand scraping everywhere. Been slammed hated it have since raised the car up.
  9. I think this is an R180 is it not? The R200 3.36 came from the '79 280ZX 4 speed 2+2 I believe. Edit: if this site is correct the 3.36 R200 was only '79 http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/GearRatios.html
  10. I don't think that's possible to do. I say "think" because I'm sure somewhere on the "interwebs" someone has done it. But there isn't enough case space nor the correct fluid passages or anything of that nature to support an internal overdrive (why the 700R4 is so much larger). It's easier to just swap in a 700R4 or 200R4 (if space is a concern) and be done with it. Yes you'll have to move your crossmember but that's not the end of the world. It's an easy job. About as easy as replacing the transmission. Few new holes and you're good. If you have a built TH350 you can always tack on a g
  11. Ebay listing when it was for sale: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Professionally-restored-1972-Datsun-240-Z-Resto-Mod-/161386307368?afsrc=1&rmvSB=true It looks nice but nothing that's really mind blowing. I thought he was known for crazy unique/custom Ridler award winning rides?
  12. I've been through this debacle so I know a little bit (assuming you have the JTR crossmember or something similar). I was running a TH350 but I can't stand turning 3200 down the highway. 700R4 is further back by about an inch if you run the tailshaft housing JTR says not to (early caprice style). It'll be about 3-4" back if you run the JTR recommended tailshaft housing (from the late model caprice). The 700R4 however allows you to keep the same length driveshaft (it's a slightly longer transmission but it won't bottom out). You may find you'll need to also modify your exhaust routing an
  13. Be down the U.S. east coast anytime? Haha. I have a severely cracked one you can have for free.
  14. WELL I took today and got the transmission in. It's tight but I didn't have to cut any of the tunnel. After catching the car on fire once I really am hesitant to welding on anything close to the interior. I did have to smack one spot for the shifter box but otherwise there is plenty of space. It's a lot more narrow than the TH350 that came out of the car. I did have to modify one shift linkage to tuck it closer to the transmission (remember, mine have been modified once before me and again when I lengthened them for my new shift bracket) but otherwise the linkages cleared the transmission tunn
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