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Stock T3 is sloppy


Ben's Z

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My T3 is sloppy. My power goal is 250 to 270 at the wheel using an RRFPR and intercooler using the factory ECU.

1) Should I just get mine rebuilt?

a) DIY hard?

B) Send it to a shop?

2) Is there an upgrade I should just do since it is bad that will work with stock injectors and ECU utilizing a RRFPR?

3) Any good ebay suggestions?

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You may need to upgrade your setup in a few more areas, then just the turbo. Here are some suggestions.

 

Adjustable fuel pressure regulator

T3/T4 turbo, since yours is sloppy. Possibly Holset turbo.

Boost controller

440 injectors

Stand alone fuel management

External wastegate

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Well he said he's trying to do this with stock components which can probably be done, but you should get a FMU that's like 8:1. That would help more than your RRFPR.

 

As for the turbo I've heard that they are pretty useless after 15psi, so whatever you're boosting keep that in mind, if your near the upper limit I would just spend the money on a more efficient turbo.

 

And injectors wouldn't hurt, 440cc injectors will leave you with room to grow later on. The external wastegate is only if you go with a turbo that doens't have an internal one, such as some holsets.

 

 

Search, I believe there was a thread on this in the past 4 months somewhere, some asked pretty much the same thing and someone answered with a very specific list of what the guy needed. A FMU was part of that to keep the fuel flowing on and off boost.

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Do a little reading here on who is making that kind of power, and what it took for them to get there. The stock computer is very, very limited...it can't control larger injectors, nor can it compensate for changes in fuel pressure. If you are going to be driving this on the street, you will probably be disappointed with the compromises needed to make the 300+ crank horsepower to put 270 to the wheels.

 

I believe that Letitsnow on here is running a stock engine, albeit with megasquirt, bigger injectors, and an intercooler, to 270RWHP...but it took 17lbs of boost from the stock turbo to do it, and above 5500RPM or so the boost fell down to 10lbs due to the compressor just not being able to flow enough. He did make 300+ ft-lbs, which is an AWESOME feeling in a street Z.

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Well what about the turbo? Can a guy do a DIY rebuild on them pretty easily?

 

 

Do a little reading here on who is making that kind of power, and what it took for them to get there. The stock computer is very, very limited...it can't control larger injectors, nor can it compensate for changes in fuel pressure. If you are going to be driving this on the street, you will probably be disappointed with the compromises needed to make the 300+ crank horsepower to put 270 to the wheels.

 

I believe that Letitsnow on here is running a stock engine, albeit with megasquirt, bigger injectors, and an intercooler, to 270RWHP...but it took 17lbs of boost from the stock turbo to do it, and above 5500RPM or so the boost fell down to 10lbs due to the compressor just not being able to flow enough. He did make 300+ ft-lbs, which is an AWESOME feeling in a street Z.

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You can rebuild the turbo yourself if your a little mechanically inclines. I know akumazedex rebuilt his with a gpop rebuild kit.

 

http://gpopshop.com/rebuild-kits/

 

An FMU is a Fuel Managment unit, which like your RRFPR, increases in fuel as the pressure in the manifold increases. I've never dealt with a RRFPR before so I'm not sure if it will work or not.

 

Also PM cygnusx1, since he's done this with a few cars.

Edited by BluDestiny
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Do a little reading here on who is making that kind of power, and what it took for them to get there. The stock computer is very, very limited...it can't control larger injectors, nor can it compensate for changes in fuel pressure. If you are going to be driving this on the street, you will probably be disappointed with the compromises needed to make the 300+ crank horsepower to put 270 to the wheels.

 

I believe that Letitsnow on here is running a stock engine, albeit with megasquirt, bigger injectors, and an intercooler, to 270RWHP...but it took 17lbs of boost from the stock turbo to do it, and above 5500RPM or so the boost fell down to 10lbs due to the compressor just not being able to flow enough. He did make 300+ ft-lbs, which is an AWESOME feeling in a street Z.

 

340ft/lbs, that much torque was plenty to roast tires from corner to corner autocrossing, run mid-12's on street tires, and in general be a TON of fun. That turbo was not happy with me though, it's dead now, but I don't think it was in great shape when I put that down. It had a sound that was almost blower-ish, so I actually think there was a little more in it if it was in good shape to begin with. Boost started falling off at more like 4k, pretty much right after it hit 18lbs, and the torque curve followed it exactly.

 

There was another member that was putting down better drag strip numbers than me with a stock ecu/rrfpr or something similar on the stock turbo, but I don't know about the details of the rest of the car.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I would swap the turbo cam for a stock NA cam. This is good for another 500 rpms of usable power and more HP.

 

The stock efi system can handle 10 psi so 12psi would be easy to get with an FMU (same thing as the bell RRFPR). You can get a non adjustable FMU on ebay for 100 dollars (the bell is adjustable but cost $250). I would get a 5:1 fmu since you already have a stock turbo efi setup. I use 8:1 fmu's when converting stock NA efi to turbo.

 

Next, I would add a 3" exhaust system. Small restrictive turbo's do better with bigger exhaust systems.

 

An IC is required as you know. 2 to 2-1/4 piping out of the turbo to the IC is all you need.

 

Get your stock turbo rebuilt at a turbo shop.

 

With 12-13 psi and the above mod's, I think you could make 250 at the tires. This is about max for the stock turbo.

 

First, I would add the NA cam, get the turbo rebuilt, install the IC, and turn up the boost to 10 psi and drive it like that for a while. Should make around 230hp with this setup. Do the exhaust, 12 psi and fmu later. You may be happy with 230hp at the wheels (265hp crank).

Edited by Pyro
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