Jasonmreiss Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 I have printed out the FAQ pages, and searched a lot but can't find an answer for my specific setup. I have the ground control coilover kit. 12" springs rated at 150/175, 4" threaded sleeve and tokico illumina dampers. In a 280z that I want to lower 2-3 inches. Question 1, Where to weld the ring? I'd follow the info in the FAQ, but it's for a different length spring. Also it's not a very stiff shock so I imagine it'll squat a bit lower. Question 2, maybe this is dumb but it's got me perplexed, on the front do you use the upper stock spring perch? Or spacers? Or just leave it out? It seems just leaving it out isn't right because then the strut doesn't turn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaito Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 Follow the faq as far as welding the "ring". Its the same regardless of spring length. Also, if not using camber plates you need to use the stock upper mount. You might need to drill out the upper mounts to fit the struts you choose. Btw, 12 inch springs when taking out 30mm (about 1 inch) only lowered my ride about an inch with 12 inch springs. Sounds like you need to read alot more before doing this. Good luck!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonmreiss Posted October 24, 2012 Author Share Posted October 24, 2012 thanks, i will look into possibly exchanging the springs for 10" ones. i have read and read and read, i have not come across a thread that states exactly which length springs will drop a 280z to exact heights. if you know of one please share. as far as the upper mount goes, i am talking about the upper spring perch, not the insulator. i am going to be using the stock insulator, and have already drilled it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaito Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 Oh my bad, no you do not need the upper perch. You should have some big washers use those as well as the bearing that was on the top of it to have the rotating movement needed in the front. Im on 12 inch springs with amber plates and it only got me maybe 2 1/2 inches lower. If I had the 10 inch springs Im sure I would be happier but Im worried about the amount of shock travel I would have by going that route. Granted I didnt section my struts as much as others usually do. I plan on doing dc2 integra coilovers sometime, or maybe threading my tubes and running a theaded shock body for dual adjustable coilovers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonmreiss Posted October 24, 2012 Author Share Posted October 24, 2012 sweet, well i have all the info now to section my struts this weekend. the car is only shell right now waiting on getting on a rotisserie, after body work, custom metal flares, and paint, ill put it all back together and see how it sits. if its not low enough, i sure hope ground control will exchange springs with me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonmreiss Posted October 24, 2012 Author Share Posted October 24, 2012 Soooo won't lowering the spring perch, and getting shorter springs, both acomplish the same thing....lower the car? And both lower the shock bump travel? What is optimal for having the tokico struts in the middle of their travel? Or am I not thinking right? I see most people run the 10" springs. Really sorry if I'm just not getting it, I'm a noob to suspension, but I have done a lot of reading Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 Given the same spring rate, going from a 10" spring to a 12" will require a drop of the welded on spring perch by 2" if you're using all the measurements in the FAQ. For example, a 10" tall 200 lb. in. rate spring will compress 3" if the corner weight is 600 lbs. That will give you a compressed spring (stack) height of 7". A 12" tall 200 lb. in. spring will also compress 3" if the corner weight is 600 lbs. That will give you a compressed spring (stack) height of 9". There is no benefit to going with a 12" spring in the S30 application. The main reason for going with a taller spring is to to keep from coil binding at low spring rates. That's why a 10" spring is a better choice for spring rates under 300 lb. in. on a S30. If your spring rates are over 300 lb. in. then a 8" tall spring works fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jasonmreiss Posted October 24, 2012 Author Share Posted October 24, 2012 thanks for the help, ground control is replacing them with 10" springs. Import replacement parts has my bz3099's in stock now. All I need to do now is source the front gland nuts. Msa can special order them I guess, anyone know anywhere else that my carry them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duragg Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 I just got BZ3099 and BZ3015 from ImportRP and the gland nuts suppied for the Toyota BZ3099 and the Datsun BZ3015 fit the Datsun Strut. What else could be needed? Tj Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted October 24, 2012 Share Posted October 24, 2012 Wait until you get the BZ3099s. Toklico, last year, was shipping the wrong gland nuts (for the intended Toyota MR2 application) in the box but they are the correct ones for our Datsun 240Z struts tubes. If you need 280Z gland nuts I ahve them for $10 each. Or you can call Ray at Tokico and if has them he'll probably send them to you for free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.