ihiryu Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 Forgive me if the picture size is too large, I tried to find a way to edit them on photobucket with no luck So this is the RB when I first got it back to the shop This is the OE 350Z clutch to install with the RB20 flywheel Pat1's awesome oil pan Head off for the new head gasket (OEM) Broke turbo How the engine sits, the factory turbo manifold is on, I'll get pics with the new mani after I get it modified for the new wastegate. So now here's a few pics of "WTF is this, and do I need it?" Item number 1 The white thing next to the coil. It's attached to the coil itself also. Item number 2 This little doodad, it's attached to the chassis right next to the coil Item number 3 This is by the clutch slave cylinder, the factory EFI harness attaches to it (there's another one behind it). I think it's a resistor box. Item number 4 This looks like a vacuum line, but it wasn't attached to anything, it could also be the windshield wiper squirter? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaito Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 Item #1 is a ballast resistor that is used with the stock datsun coil. You only need it if usin that coil but if memory serves me right, the rb20 has coil on plug. Item #2 makes me think that you have a 280z chassis, its used for connecting the ignitor wiring to the coil wiring on a stock datsun. Its "neater??" not needed though. Item #3 is the injector resistor packs (L28et swap?) Item #4 is for the wiper squirters. Good guess! The PO probably removed the wiper bottle because they tend to turn in to powder after 30+ years. Post pics of your mounts when you get a chance please. I was told that you can bolt this motor up with mercedes 6cyl diesel mounts AND use the stock driveshaft so I I would like to know if its true or not. Enlighten me please!!!! Good luck with your build. Looks fun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
helghast7 Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 I feel like I've seen this thread a couple days ago elsewhere, though i could be wrong. Good luck nonetheless, keep us posted! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_Donovan_ Posted October 26, 2012 Share Posted October 26, 2012 I feel like I've seen this thread a couple days ago elsewhere, though i could be wrong.Good luck nonetheless, keep us posted! You may have seen it here. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/109284-starting-my-rb20-swap-soon/page__p__1021604__fromsearch__1#entry1021604 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted October 27, 2012 Author Share Posted October 27, 2012 Kaito, the mounts I used were from a Jaguar XJ6 (I think) it's an early nineties, late eighties model. (Edit 1981 and the Beck/Arnley P/N 1040294) I had the mounts in earlier and they were a snug fit. I ended up taking a drill and enlarged the hole slightly bigger than what they are now. At this point, I'm kind of stuck, my turbo manifold's wastegate tube is resting on the steering shaft. I'll have to pull it out and get it cut and rewelded. I took a few pictures that I will upload tomorrow. Yes my car is a 280z, I looked at the diagram and figured out they were injector resistors. Also on the coil area, I believe the one of the plugs go the A/C compressor. The driveshaft should line up, I no longer have a stock driveshaft (U-Joints went south, and mine are serviceable), so I had one made out of aluminum for a STOCK 280Z coupe. Using the stock mounts allowed the A/C compressor bracket to clear the sway bar also. Again, I'll shoot some more pics tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 The motor mounts are a little short, so I wouldn't suggest using them, one mount is overly tweaked, but I'll worry about that later. Anyway, some new pics Motor starting to go in Here's a pic of the motor and FMIC mock up. Gotta get some new intercooler pipes, come to find out 3" is a little too big for the holes on the core support. So it's kinda hard to see but here's the A/C compressor tensioner bracket to the sway bar clearance: My stock style driveshaft from the awesome guys Driveshaft Specialist (free plug for them, quick shipping http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted October 29, 2012 Author Share Posted October 29, 2012 (edited) This is for my reference (since I like to jot on napkins that ultimately get thrown away). This is for the Z alternator to RB alternator, I don't know if this is right, but it should be. Z RB (purpose) Black, Black (Ground) Big White/Red, Big White/Blue (Battery) White, Small White/Red (Gauge charging light) Yellow, Small White/Blue (Sense) Does anyone see anything wrong with this? I'm going to wire it up this way, hopefully nothing burns down. Edited October 29, 2012 by ihiryu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihiryu Posted October 30, 2012 Author Share Posted October 30, 2012 (edited) Finished! Well almost anyway. Waiting on my I/C piping to make it, and get all that fitted on. Got the car to crank up and fire today (stalls since no I/C) then fill up A/C make sure it all works. I was able to reuse the factory oil pressure switch, on the coolant though, I had to use the stock RB sensor, and wired it into the Z chassis. I don't know how it's going to read though. Oh and the RPM gauge, I need to find the factory wire for the Tach, and I'm just going to plug in the RB tach signal to the gauge. I know it'll read wrong, but having a gauge that reads nothing would make me go crazy. At this point I'm using the stock fan and clutch from the RB, along with the stock radiator and shroud from the Z. It's a really tight fit though, I've got about 1/4 of an inch from the fan to radiator. I'm worried that it's going to touch when I'm driving. I cut the plug for the floor temp light (since it didn't work) and rewired it for my CEL. For anyone doing the swap, the wiring to the fuel pump is on the plug underneath the passenger seat. The wires are G/L and B. I took black to ground, and G/L to the new relay. So intercooler, BOV, and doing something about the downpipe and exhaust. Edited October 30, 2012 by ihiryu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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