I've read the books, I've read the threads, where to begin my L28 build :/ ?

[camerashy]

To give a bit of background...

 

CYLINDER HEAD - I am keeping the L28 in my 280Z, so far I've had the N47 head ultrasonically cleaned, and the great local shop milled the most minimal amount they could off to deck it flat. The chambers seem to be in great condition, no cracks anywhere. They also milled the manifold side for me. 

 

BLOCK - The block is a standard bore (STD pistons, STD bearings etc) N42 block which I had magnafluxed, decked, steel shot paddled and the paint burnt off in the oven. I've vacuumed and washed it out thoroughly. I've since painted the block and replaced the core plugs with some nice new brass ones from Summit with a bit of Permatex just to be sure they stay sealed  

 

I've amassed a great number of 'shiny bits' over the past couple of years, some nice trumpets, standard length runner Cannon manifold, MS3 EFI (soldered it myself, tested it, quite proud ), the Tomei adjustable cam gear, Tomei oil pump, LD28 water pump, Kameari Timing Gear set. I've also got a spanky new timing chain, new rod bearings and new crank bearings all ready to fit. Retrospectively, some of this may not be necessary but I have the attitude of 'well I have it, AND if it works together, I should make use of it' attitude. 

 

EXHAUST - I have a TRUST exhaust manifold that I am considering getting jet-hot coated or some equivalent, as well as a Fujitsubo Legalis exhaust. 

 

 

I would like to make a bulletproof, reliable engine, ideally using the parts I already own that I could drive across Canada in a heart beat, at a moments notice, that I could still take to the track and have A LOT of fun with. That would be comfortable running on 87-89 octane fuel if it had to (rural Northern Canada can be a little...starved of higher rated fuels). I drove the car before I stripped it down and I loved it then, the L28 roar, the way the back end would get squirrelly in the wet. Before someone says 'pay Rebello lots of money' I have so far loved the building process, the learning process and really feeling like I've put blood, sweat and tears into my cars build. So while I realise I can't port/polish myself and that boring the cylinders is best left to professionals (I certainly don't have the machine shop for it!), I would love to be able to do as much myself (within reason) as possible and really get to 'learn' my engine, take the time, documenting everything, tolerances, and really learning every nuance of it that I can. I mean, it's fun! 

 

The engine is being backed up by the proper support systems (Koyorad, new stainless fuel lines, coilovers with usable spring rates, CV axles etc etc). 

 

I should state, that I walk/cycle to work, and this is my only car (I have a work truck if I need to get places that public transport can't get me) so while it isn't a 'money no object build' I may have more flexibility than others might do to build it  

 

As I understand it, I'm doing the obvious things so far 

 

1. EFI

2. Good exhaust header/exhaust

3. Lightened flywheel

4. Timing - getting it right

5. Reliable spark - I'm going to be using the EDIS system that BRAAP has so kindly documented in such detail. 

 

I was thinking that the OER ITBs would make a great (sounding ) addition (as well as allowing me to use the stock injectors), and that the rocker arms that ZCCJDM stock would help lighten (thus improve reliability) the valvetrain a little being that it's suggested to replace them and the lashpads anyway. Possibly an overbore with Datsunspirit piston/rod combo to lighten up the rotating mass (but with reduced valve recesses). And sending the head to Brian? Does any of that make sense? 

 

Any thoughts would be welcome. You guys have imparted a great deal of knowledge though this forum, much of which that I feel I've absorbed over the past few years, but when it comes to an engine build, no matter how many times I read the Honsowetz book, I end up feeling more 'I dont know where to begin' than when I started! I found MONZTERS build especially inspiring, the attention to detail and ruthless matching of parts certainly stopped me in my tracks to say 'stop buying shiny things, start investing thought' 

 

#The long and the short of it#: I have shiny parts, time, higher budget than many, want super reliable drivetrain system that I won't outgrow or feel 'limited' by in 5 years time for weekend trackdays but that I can also take on thousand mile roadtrips. How should I invest my time, money and thought? And principally, should I stick with my N47 head?

 

Cheers

James

 

p.s. mybuild thread (with many more details) is here - http://www.retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=readersrides&action=display&thread=86608

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[skirkland1980]

Is the car ready for an engine yet? You have a lot more than you need to do what you want.

[Lazeum]

I went thru this process myslef last year. Here are my advices:

 

- Get the block, crank & head checked by a profesionnal (already done).

- Make sure everything is clean inside/out, I've removed oil & water plugs out of the block to do so, I've also removed oil plugs on crank to clean the galleries.

- Measure, measure, measure everything with reliable (=calibrated) tools; for stuffs such as piston/bore clearance, crank & rods journals ask your machinist to do it for you if you do not have the proper tools.

- Do not assume anything, control everything, stuff such as crank axial play, piston/deck, bearing clearance, rings gaps, rings orientation are some of the critical data to track down. It means you need the right gages to measure everything with proper accuracy (a caliper to measure crank journal is not enough obviously).

- Everything must be super clean all the time, use paper towel instead of rags.

- Change all the bolts on the short block; those are cheap, no need any shortcuts on those. the only ones I've reused are caps bolts (I've been cheap here - they cost around $40-50), rod bolts & head studs from ARP & all other bolts are 8.8 grade purchased at regular hardware store.

- Get quality & proper tools (to install rings for instance) & calibrated torque wrench

- Take pictures of everything for reference

- Never use brute force

- Get organized. I've used tenth of plastic bags, boxes during the process. I've spreaded everything on a 12ft long work bench.

- the "while I'm at it" syndrom is a good thing here, you could think for instance to increase oil flow in the head if you upgrade the pump with Tomei unit.

 

I would add that if you have the money with all the bling you've collected (I'm jaleous ), you should make sure you've got some power too. The head/cam is where you would get your power aside from engine management. You should define what you want & get the head work, cam & valvetrain done accordingly. You're timing gears are a waste to me without proper head/cam.

 

For instance on my engine, I wanted torque over power at high rpm so comp ratio is not crazy, cam is designed for efficiency between 3000 & 6000rpm and head port are not wide open to keep proper flow. There's nore to that also, intake manifold is ported slightly but I kept a small step to avoid flow reversion.

 

If I wanted high HP output, I would have bumped Comp ratio, cam profile, port sizes & change my carbs for bigger units, etc...

Edited January 15, 2013 by Lazeum

[didier]

If you have your MS3 soldered, you don't need the EDIS system, you can make a COP ingnition system and sequential injection by the way. 

and like Lazeum said : don't use brute force !!

Edited January 16, 2013 by didier